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I got my subs installed by bestbuy which wasent the best of ideas but.. when the install was done i didnt come back until a few years later to upgrade my subs and the guy that originally did the installation did not work there anymore. The installers that were there the second time through were like WTF?I have never seen subs wired this way before, so they left it how it was. i was just wondering if anyone has ever seen wiring done this way.
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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I've seen cars wired this way before, but that was when I was 18 and didn't know anything or have much money. Others wired that way are in junk yards - they burned up!

If the connection from the 14- or 16-ga. wire to the battery cable in your hand is not soldered then it'll corrode over time. That is just jacked UP! And what's with the relay and that bird's nest of wiring?

Since I know how to do wiring I'd be reinstalling that myself, and fast!

Too bad it was so long ago. The company where it was done likely won't honor any kind of workmanship warranty, but you might be able to talk them into a discount on new parts and/or labor. That way they can participate in making up for their lack of oversight (by not inspecting the work of their employee back then) and take a step toward making you a satisfied customer.

Or you can go to a reputable shop.
 

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Yea they were not sure why the heck he added a relay into it but they had no clue how to fix it. What do you mean by burned up?Can how they wired it do something to my ride? Another this is after i had these installs my keyfob to remote lock/unlock doesnt have the range it used to and sometimes it takes 2 or 3 presses to work. I figured this was a shotty wiring job.
 

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By burned up I mean crispy critters! Wiring that is not sized properly for the load, or that chafes against metal and shorts out, or that suffers from a poor joint that eventually fails or overheats can cause a vehicle fire. I'm not suggesting that the job they did on yours will cause it, but the risk is increased with shoddy wiring like you have pictured there.

The purple wire to the relay is obviously the powered lead. The red and blue wires are each big enough that they could actually be carrying a small load. One of them is probably the signal (to the coil) and the other is the switched wire (to the accessory). Usually there is a fourth terminal on the relay to act as the ground path for the coil, but your signal wire might provide the ground. Then the purple would be jumped across two terminals to provide power to the coil AND the accessory circuit. Sometimes the ground is the metal case that needs to be screwed to a metal ground, but that was more common back in the '60's and '70's. With the '80's a lot of car brands had switched over to wired grounds for lights and other circuits so that they could have plastic housings instead of metal. Your relay appears to be plastic.

The wire that they tapped into the huge cable should be removed and a joint made where the cable ends at a connector, or run all the way to the source itself. The red wire that has been joined and taped simply needs to be soldered if it is not one solid piece already. The blue and purple wires that appear to be wired to the relay need to be gathered into loops and tied off. All of the wires added need to be checked to be sure that they aren't chafing on anything that will eventually rub through the insulation and cause a short. Look especially where they go through holes. At the very least a fuse will blow and you'll lose the function of any circuit on that branch. At worst your car will catch fire.

I don't say this to scare you (or any others that read this), but to make you aware of just how serious it can be. If you take reasonable precautions you should have an event-free experience from your mods.

The range of your remote is mostly determined by the location of the receiving antenna. The transmitter is the fob. If the receiver is behind a metal bulkhead, such as being hidden in the dash or down in the kick panel, then it will have difficulty receiving the fob's transmission. Placing it up high, like on top of the dash, attached to a window, or up in the headliner (with the antenna properly oriented) can greatly increase the effective range of the fob. Also look at the battery terminals inside the fob. If they are flopping around they might need to be resoldered. If they don't grip the battery (batteries) firmly then they may need to be bent a little to grip better.

Post up what steps you take to make your car better, okay?
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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If it's aftermarket it could be built into the main module or, like my old one, a discrete device that plugs into the module and is mounted remotely. It was a small box with a very short antenna sticking out and it was designed to be mounted to the bottom of the windshield in the corner, you know, where all you see is hood anyhow!

If it's factory then it's already mounted and is likely in the roof antenna or incorporated into some other device that allows it to be mounted up high.
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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A delay in turning on the amp allows the car's electrical system to stabilize before a large current is demanded of it. It reduces the amount of peak demand immediately after startup and works toward helping the amp live a lot longer.

If they don't know why anyone would ever do it, take it to a different shop. RUN!
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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Thanks for the improved understanding, guys! I've never had amps in any of my cars (not like yours, just low-power ones) so I've never considered the idea of speakers popping. Every time I've put in a delayed power relay it was to keep the device from dealing with spikes or brown-outs immediately after startup. But speakers need consieration as well.
 
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