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i would love to give as much info as i can, just wanted to get myself out there. amp is a skar rp-1200.1D, with a skar 12” sub. loc is by metra, i’ve only done one other system with an loc before and it wasn’t for subs just marine speakers in a jeep, went very smooth. i’ll take some pictures of the loc and where i’m tapping in. i planned on just wiring it into the factory amp because i have no rear pkg panel speakers, i grounded the loc with the battery and rabbits 12v to a cigarette lighter in the backseat, if you have any suggestions on how it would be easier with bypassing the amp all together or anything to help that would be nice, also no i have no cut any factory wires at all, plan was to just tap the door speakers with the loc and give it power and then run the rca back to the amp, my problem right now is that i may have chosen a bad ground for the amp it’s self as i’m getting no power indicator on it at all, first i grounded with a self tapper under the carpet of the trunk and now it’s on a seat mounting bolt
Where is your power to the amp fed from? Main battery or ???

if you are only adding subs (and amp) bypassing the factory amp isn’t possible. You need your front fill to be sent from it and subs from the Skar amp.
Let me look up a few things and I’ll get back to you tomorrow.
 

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Where is your power to the amp fed from? Main battery or ???

if you are only adding subs (and amp) bypassing the factory amp isn’t possible. You need your front fill to be sent from it and subs from the Skar amp.
Let me look up a few things and I’ll get back to you tomorrow.
my amp power is running straight to the battery yes, if it would be easier i can pm you and get maybe a phone number or something and just make a video explaining everything so i don’t forget to type something?
 

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I'm so glad you said that those are just temporary connections!

On the 12V power, it looks like you've tapped into the black wire. That is usually the color that denotes the ground. It's also toward the outside of the socket, which reinforces the idea that it's the ground. The other wire is probably the hot wire.
 

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my amp power is running straight to the battery yes, if it would be easier i can pm you and get maybe a phone number or something and just make a video explaining everything so i don’t forget to type something?
Sorry for the delay, I wasn't available to look closer last night...

Pay close attention to what DrivenDaily mentioned above and my recommendation is (sorry, but you may not like it) to take it all back to factory and pull the fuse for the amp (for now, to keep power from going to the amp). Pull your splices and reconnect, heat shrink, tessa tape those connections back to factory. Please do not cut these wires as you may or may not be cutting something that can hurt you or the car.

I never asked if this was Bose or non-Bose? Not a big issue for either but you will need to know. Once it is all back together, reach out to LLJ Customs in Arizona, they make harnesses to tie into the factory systems without cutting anything. 2019-2020 Malibu Harness can be ordered with or without a LOC (I HIGHLY recommend the LC2i Pro (but your amp came with a remote gain control) vice the Metra but that is totally your choice. The harness comes with a remote turn-on wire in it so you don't need to splice into anything (the Audio Control devices have a remote turn-on out to feed the amp as well). This is why I say to call them, they can help you with that decision. They currently have a delay on shipping them but it should be worth it in the end.

Sorry but that is what I recommend. I really do not condone cutting or splicing into the factory harnesses on these new cars as we never know what can be affected. For example, on my wife's old mini van (2010 Grand Caravan, long gone though) we had an issue where the factory rear DVD player stopped working. We replaced it, re-wired it, tried everything we could. We also noticed that the power rear seats sometimes would hang up. Turns out that the rear DVD player was tied into the rear seat motor controller (WTH?) and that motor controller went bad... Can't make this crap up.
 
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I'm so glad you said that those are just temporary connections!

On the 12V power, it looks like you've tapped into the black wire. That is usually the color that denotes the ground. It's also toward the outside of the socket, which reinforces the idea that it's the ground. The other wire is probably the hot wire.
i figured someone would mention that, i had tried both the black and the purple for 12v and neither worked, i’m thinking my problem is a bad ground but i’m just not getting power to the amp at all, let alone getting it signal, i tried sanding down a spot in the truck and then self tapping the ground but that didn’t work, and then one of the back seat bolts but that also did not work
 

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Sorry for the delay, I wasn't available to look closer last night...

Pay close attention to what DrivenDaily mentioned above and my recommendation is (sorry, but you may not like it) to take it all back to factory and pull the fuse for the amp (for now, to keep power from going to the amp). Pull your splices and reconnect, heat shrink, tessa tape those connections back to factory. Please do not cut these wires as you may or may not be cutting something that can hurt you or the car.

I never asked if this was Bose or non-Bose? Not a big issue for either but you will need to know. Once it is all back together, reach out to LLJ Customs in Arizona, they make harnesses to tie into the factory systems without cutting anything. 2019-2020 Malibu Harness can be ordered with or without a LOC (I HIGHLY recommend the LC2i Pro (but your amp came with a remote gain control) vice the Metra but that is totally your choice. The harness comes with a remote turn-on wire in it so you don't need to splice into anything (the Audio Control devices have a remote turn-on out to feed the amp as well). This is why I say to call them, they can help you with that decision. They currently have a delay on shipping them but it should be worth it in the end.

Sorry but that is what I recommend. I really do not condone cutting or splicing into the factory harnesses on these new cars as we never know what can be affected. For example, on my wife's old mini van (2010 Grand Caravan, long gone though) we had an issue where the factory rear DVD player stopped working. We replaced it, re-wired it, tried everything we could. We also noticed that the power rear seats sometimes would hang up. Turns out that the rear DVD player was tied into the rear seat motor controller (WTH?) and that motor controller went bad... Can't make this crap up.
just to be clear on the splicing, none of the wires that i tapped into did i cut or anything like that, every connection i made was just like the picture of the cigarette lighter, just shaved down a bit, twisted around the wire and then electrical tape around to make sure nothing touched, but i hear you, if i have to go back to factory for a while and get the harness you mentioned and anything else to make it easier then i have no problem doing that. oh and the metra also comes with a remote gain control i’ve used it one other time in a 2016 jeep wrangler and it works well. so just to be clear your recommendation is to take the fuse from the amp out, and then take the loc out and just wait on a harness?
 

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Sorry for the delay, I wasn't available to look closer last night...

Pay close attention to what DrivenDaily mentioned above and my recommendation is (sorry, but you may not like it) to take it all back to factory and pull the fuse for the amp (for now, to keep power from going to the amp). Pull your splices and reconnect, heat shrink, tessa tape those connections back to factory. Please do not cut these wires as you may or may not be cutting something that can hurt you or the car.

I never asked if this was Bose or non-Bose? Not a big issue for either but you will need to know. Once it is all back together, reach out to LLJ Customs in Arizona, they make harnesses to tie into the factory systems without cutting anything. 2019-2020 Malibu Harness can be ordered with or without a LOC (I HIGHLY recommend the LC2i Pro (but your amp came with a remote gain control) vice the Metra but that is totally your choice. The harness comes with a remote turn-on wire in it so you don't need to splice into anything (the Audio Control devices have a remote turn-on out to feed the amp as well). This is why I say to call them, they can help you with that decision. They currently have a delay on shipping them but it should be worth it in the end.

Sorry but that is what I recommend. I really do not condone cutting or splicing into the factory harnesses on these new cars as we never know what can be affected. For example, on my wife's old mini van (2010 Grand Caravan, long gone though) we had an issue where the factory rear DVD player stopped working. We replaced it, re-wired it, tried everything we could. We also noticed that the power rear seats sometimes would hang up. Turns out that the rear DVD player was tied into the rear seat motor controller (WTH?) and that motor controller went bad... Can't make this crap up.
and sorry i forgot one thing, the car is non-bose
 

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just to be clear on the splicing, none of the wires that i tapped into did i cut or anything like that, every connection i made was just like the picture of the cigarette lighter, just shaved down a bit, twisted around the wire and then electrical tape around to make sure nothing touched, but i hear you, if i have to go back to factory for a while and get the harness you mentioned and anything else to make it easier then i have no problem doing that. oh and the metra also comes with a remote gain control i’ve used it one other time in a 2016 jeep wrangler and it works well. so just to be clear your recommendation is to take the fuse from the amp out, and then take the loc out and just wait on a harness?
The "in-line" fuse that should be within 18" of your cars battery, yes. Not the fuse on the amp (if it has one, and I don't think that amp does). You can leave it but there is no reason to if you aren't using for now.

Your amp (SKAR 1200.1D) has a lot of decent features. I've never used a SKAR but have heard decent things about them. It looks as if it came with a "remote bass knob" (aka gain control) but you said the LOC came with one as well ("oh and the metra also comes with a remote gain control...")? Is this the AX-ALOC700 by chance? Just wanted to look at the specs on the LOC as well. Sorry I didn't ask that earlier either.
 

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The "in-line" fuse that should be within 18" of your cars battery, yes. Not the fuse on the amp (if it has one, and I don't think that amp does). You can leave it but there is no reason to if you aren't using for now.

Your amp (SKAR 1200.1D) has a lot of decent features. I've never used a SKAR but have heard decent things about them. It looks as if it came with a "remote bass knob" (aka gain control) but you said the LOC came with one as well ("oh and the metra also comes with a remote gain control...")? Is this the AX-ALOC700 by chance? Just wanted to look at the specs on the LOC as well. Sorry I didn't ask that earlier either.
i don’t know the exact name of the loc but after clicking the link of the one you sent that doesn’t look like it, here’s another picture of it with the remote gain knob and i’ll try and respond with a name in a minute

The "in-line" fuse that should be within 18" of your cars battery, yes. Not the fuse on the amp (if it has one, and I don't think that amp does). You can leave it but there is no reason to if you aren't using for now.

Your amp (SKAR 1200.1D) has a lot of decent features. I've never used a SKAR but have heard decent things about them. It looks as if it came with a "remote bass knob" (aka gain control) but you said the LOC came with one as well ("oh and the metra also comes with a remote gain control...")? Is this the AX-ALOC700 by chance? Just wanted to look at the specs on the LOC as well. Sorry I didn't ask that earlier either.
this is what i bought, i don’t think i can link but if you search line output converter on walmart it should be the first one, maybe it’s not even what i need for this application i don’t have much experience with amp installs on factory radios
 

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Here is another quick question as I am unfamiliar with the 2020 model and where the factory amp is located.

The image you have of the LOC looks to be in the passenger side floorboard and tapped into ? (is that the factory amp in the 2020's). Mine is in the truck and is very easy to get to...

70566
 

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Here is another quick question as I am unfamiliar with the 2020 model and where the factory amp is located.

The image you have of the LOC looks to be in the passenger side floorboard and tapped into ? (is that the factory amp in the 2020's). Mine is in the truck and is very easy to get to...

View attachment 70566
well unfortunately there isn’t a whole lot of research on 2020s, i’ve tried to do as much as i can but there isn’t a whole lot, i’ve found a few people saying it’s behind the glove box and yes that is where the pictures of my loc are, and i’ve matched the connections to pictures of the older cars, i can send a better picture of the amp so you can see, i also tried to look in the trunk where people had said that the older amps are but i don’t have one back there.
 

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well unfortunately for me there’s isn’t a whole lot of research done on the 2020

well unfortunately there isn’t a whole lot of research on 2020s, i’ve tried to do as much as i can but there isn’t a whole lot, i’ve found a few people saying it’s behind the glove box and yes that is where the pictures of my loc are, and i’ve matched the connections to pictures of the older cars, i can send a better picture of the amp so you can see, i also tried to look in the trunk where people had said that the older amps are but i don’t have one back there.
and with that being said i haven’t even been able to find a stereo wiring diagram for the 2020 model either. had to go off of a 2019 diagram
 

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What I think you are tapped into there may be your SiriusXM Satellite Radio not your factory amp...
 

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What I think you are tapped into there may be your SiriusXM Satellite Radio not your factory amp...
oh, do you know where the amp could be then? and that still presents my original question, why do you think my amp isn’t getting power? where did you ground your amp to? i don’t mean to stray away from the point we were at but i’m just curious because i’ve tried a back seat mount and under the trunks carpet?
 

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Th picture I posted is my factory amp. It is located on the passenger side wheel well in the trunk (I had all the trunk carpet out this weekend). I haven't finished my install yet but will have a second battery in the trunk for power to the amps I have on the way (CT Sounds M75.4AB and M750.1D). Going with a smaller set up in mine with 1 8" in the trunk and completely bypassing the factory amp.

If the remote turn-on does not supply power then the amp will not power on. Just because you have a larger power run to the amp doesn't mean it will come on. You need both for the amp to run as the remote turn-on kind of acts as the power switch...
 

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Th picture I posted is my factory amp. It is located on the passenger side wheel well in the trunk (I had all the trunk carpet out this weekend). I haven't finished my install yet but will have a second battery in the trunk for power to the amps I have on the way (CT Sounds M75.4AB and M750.1D). Going with a smaller set up in mine with 1 8" in the trunk and completely bypassing the factory amp.

If the remote turn-on does not supply power then the amp will not power on. Just because you have a larger power run to the amp doesn't mean it will come on. You need both for the amp to run as the remote turn-on kind of acts as the power switch...
alright, whenever i get home from work i will take the carpet out of the trunk and check to make sure it’s not back there, i might’ve been misinformed... would be nice as my “weekend project” has turned into a 4 day event. i had a smaller setup like that in my old jeep i had 2 home audio speakers with probably 6” subs.
 

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alright, whenever i get home from work i will take the carpet out of the trunk and check to make sure it’s not back there, i might’ve been misinformed... would be nice as my “weekend project” has turned into a 4 day event. i had a smaller setup like that in my old jeep i had 2 home audio speakers with probably 6” subs.
so before you said that just adding a sub you won’t be able to bypass the amp? how are you doing it?
 

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so before you said that just adding a sub you won’t be able to bypass the amp? how are you doing it?
That is two different things. You DO NOT want to bypass the factory amp. Doing so will produce no sound from the from the front speakers. Using one of the harnesses I linked will ADD an output to connect to your (or a different LOC) so you can ADD the aftermarket amp to your system. I will be using a different harness to carry the signal from the radio (factory) to my LOC (AudioControl LC7i) then RCA's to both amps and feed the mid/high back to the factory wiring (from the 75.4AB) and lows to the sub (from the 750.1D).
 

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That is two different things. You DO NOT want to bypass the factory amp. Doing so will produce no sound from the from the front speakers. Using one of the harnesses I linked will ADD an output to connect to your (or a different LOC) so you can ADD the aftermarket amp to your system. I will be using a different harness to carry the signal from the radio (factory) to my LOC (AudioControl LC7i) then RCA's to both amps and feed the mid/high back to the factory wiring (from the 75.4AB) and lows to the sub (from the 750.1D).
i see, i was just curious as to how it works i wasn’t asking for my sake necessarily, just curious
 

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i see, i was just curious as to how it works i wasn’t asking for my sake necessarily, just curious
No worries. I'm happy to share any information I can. I just emphasized the differences between the two. There are other ways of doing it and mine may or may not work for others.
 
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