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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm fishing around for information regarding what happens to hid's with high end audio.

I have an audio batt. installed already and still have head light dim, depending on the frequency of the bass tone.

What happens if hid's dim? I can't find a definitive answer to this. I did find this:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/off-topic/64094-hid-head-lights-do-they-dim.html

But the results are inconclusive. Your thoughts?
 

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it's hard to say. on one hand i would think they wouldn't flicker because of the capacitors in the ballasts but i also could see them flickering if it is a big enough fluctuation in power. i have wondered this too because i have notices that when traction control engages they lights dim..
 

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My small amplifier caused dimming before I switched over to LED switches and HID's. Now the only issue I have is the idle dropping when the bass hits, but I hope to correct that come warmer weather to do the big three. As for the HID's dimming, I have never had an issue with them flickering or anything in any of my current or previous vehicles, and right now I run HID's in the headlights and fog lights. I don't know if it makes a difference, but I run relay harnesses to connect the HID's directly to the battery for the best current.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My small amplifier caused dimming before I switched over to LED switches and HID's. Now the only issue I have is the idle dropping when the bass hits, but I hope to correct that come warmer weather to do the big three. As for the HID's dimming, I have never had an issue with them flickering or anything in any of my current or previous vehicles, and right now I run HID's in the headlights and fog lights. I don't know if it makes a difference, but I run relay harnesses to connect the HID's directly to the battery for the best current.
That may be the best way to run them, I've never had them before but if I can wire them off my cars batt. under the hood directly they may not dim. I wonder how my headlights are wired now, come to think of it? As the alt. and audio batt. should be taking all if not 90% of the audio power needs, thus leaving the under hood batt. to focus on powering hids. Sounds good to me when I read it back to myself.
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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That may be the best way to run them, I've never had them before but if I can wire them off my cars batt. under the hood directly they may not dim. I wonder how my headlights are wired now, come to think of it? As the alt. and audio batt. should be taking all if not 90% of the audio power needs, thus leaving the under hood batt. to focus on powering hids. Sounds good to me when I read it back to myself.
If you have the sound system wired to the second battery and then have a special charging device that limits how much amperage can be drawn from the mother system (alternator and battery combined) then it will have little effect on the mother system's components.

If, however, the connection from the second battery to the mother battery is simply with a cable large enough to act as a jumper cable, then any load on the second battery is instantly shared by the mother system. If that load is so large that your lights dim then just imagine what they would have done without the second battery!

Both batteries are wired in parallel. If one of the connections (pos or neg, doesn't matter) is attenuated by a device that limits the current passing through it, it can be limited both ways or only one.

A diode is like a one-way valve for electricity. If you think of it like a hose then this "valve" can let all the "water" pass in one direction with no restriction but reduce or prevent it from flowing in the other direction. A diode does the same with electricity.

So if there's a device that doesn't limit the flow in one direction (ie while charging the second battery) but limits it in the other direction (ie while starting the engine) then the second battery will be a parasitic draw on the mother system but won't supply any real advantage to any of the mother's components.

I hope this is understandable!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you have the sound system wired to the second battery and then have a special charging device that limits how much amperage can be drawn from the mother system (alternator and battery combined) then it will have little effect on the mother system's components.

If, however, the connection from the second battery to the mother battery is simply with a cable large enough to act as a jumper cable, then any load on the second battery is instantly shared by the mother system. If that load is so large that your lights dim then just imagine what they would have done without the second battery!

Both batteries are wired in parallel. If one of the connections (pos or neg, doesn't matter) is attenuated by a device that limits the current passing through it, it can be limited both ways or only one.

A diode is like a one-way valve for electricity. If you think of it like a hose then this "valve" can let all the "water" pass in one direction with no restriction but reduce or prevent it from flowing in the other direction. A diode does the same with electricity.

So if there's a device that doesn't limit the flow in one direction (ie while charging the second battery) but limits it in the other direction (ie while starting the engine) then the second battery will be a parasitic draw on the mother system but won't supply any real advantage to any of the mother's components.

I hope this is understandable!
Lol, I smell what your stepping in. I believe what they called it was a ground isolation unit, so no power will be taken from the cars batt. So I could play my music for awhile with the car off, and when the music dies/audio batt. , then I start the car for a few minutes to get it charged back up.
 

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Kinda. A battery isolator keeps the charged battery from being drained while there's no charge coming from the alternator. The ones I've seen also keep the second battery from providing any juice to the mother battery. The only way any charge gets to either battery is through a pair of parallel diodes that allow the charge to split and go to both batteries but prevents the flow of electricity to either one from the other. The second battery is therefore dependent on the alternator completely and doesn't benefit from the mother battery.

So, if the second battery is sucking down most or all of the alternator's output there's little or none left for the mother battery. That will drop the voltage rather quickly from 13.8-14.6 operating voltage to around 11-12 in very little time because the mother battery isn't being charged as quickly as it's being discharged. This allows the lights to dim. If the lights brighten up as the draw on the second battery diminishes, allowing more current to go to the mother battery, and then the draw returns, the higher voltage available to the mother battery during that time will be diverted to the second battery and the lights will dim again.

There's only so much current available on the stock system, even though it has a 125-amp alternator stock. Sudden peak demands will cause lights to dim until the alternator can overcome the draw. It may be quick or it may take a while. Depends on how fast the alternator is spinning and how much load there is.
 

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i have a 2 channel running my subs, 4 channel running my interior speakers, 1 farad cap and 5000k HIDs and i get zero dimming (after my car is warmed up). If my car has been sitting awhile and i turning it on and crank the bass up right away it dims some.
 
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