The 2008 and 2009 and possibly some early 2010 models had a concern with the transmission. The "3-5-R" Wave Plate (a springy washer thingy) would fail. Call a dealer with the VIN to see if it was ever addressed.
How far you go depends a lot on how it was maintained. The 2009 required only conventional oil to meet warranty requirements. I know that because I had a 2009 with that engine and loved it. I traded it at 20K miles for a 2011 with the 3.6L. Sadly, that one was taken 3 years later by a flood and I couldn't afford to buy it back from the auction. I ended up replacing it with an almost identical used one with 56K on the clock and the same engine.
I used various kinds of oil in my first 2011, which required a minimum of a synthetic blend. In this engine, all it has gotten is fully synthetic oil, and the best I can find is AmsOil so that is what it gets.
The biggest tender spots in that engine are the timing chain tensioners. There are 3 chains, 3 pulleys (plus the 4 cam pulleys), and 7 chain tensioners (3 that apply tension, 4 stationary slides). The plastic on those slides and tensioners can be worn more quickly if the oil is depleted of its additives, so changing it regularly and using top notch oil should be the best insurance.
With 180,ooo on it already, if it has lasted this long then maybe it was taken care of. Or not. Since you now own it, change every fluid in it:
Brake fluid
Coolant (be prepared for water pump and t-stat to need changed as well, plus change the hoses)
Engine oil
Trans fluid
PS fluid (I replace the stock fluid with 100% Lucas Power Steering fluid with conditioners and it really helps control the groaning that the stock fluids allows, plus it feels a lot smoother)
Blinker fluid
Other than that, don't take it past 6800 RPM in any gear and it should treat you pretty well.
What color is it? Got any pics to share yet? (No obligation, though.)