Chevrolet Malibu Forums banner
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

Super Moderator
2016 Malibu 1LT 1.5T/6-speed 6T40
4,252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is an informal guide for the DIYer that wants to learn but is a little unsure. It is not a professional guide, there might even be typos. If you disagree with something, don't use the guide or write your own. This user (me), the forum, staff, nor anyone else is responsible for failure to follow the guide, damage or mishaps from the information here. What you do to your car is your own responsibility.

The following how-to guide will demonstrate an oil change on the 2016-2017 1.5T. Consider this a table of contents:

1. Background, Tools/Supplies
2. Process
3. Cleanup

Time required: 30-60 minutes working slow and methodical.

Download this guide as a PDF below:


Super Moderator
2016 Malibu 1LT 1.5T/6-speed 6T40
4,252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
1. Background, Tools/Supplies


The process is fairly simple: remove drain plug, drain oil, replace drain plug, remove and drain oil filter, install new oil filter, fill oil, recycle/properly dispose of old oil and filter.

The current specifications for the 2016-2017 1.5T are 5W30 dexos1 gen3 oil and a UPF64R oil filter. In 2018 they changed to 0W20 and PF64 oil filter for the 2018-2021 1.5T cars. Excluding exceptions such as extended high RPM and coolant temp average, the Oil Life Monitor will base calculation on 7500 miles or 1 year consistent with the user manual maintenance interval. I change my oil every 5000 miles which is never more than 4 months.

Automotive tire Office supplies Automotive wheel system Rim Tire

1) Oil drain pan, at least 5 quarts. I use THIS pan.
2) 5 Quarts 5W30 dexos1 gen2 - I use Mobil1 Advanced Full Synthetic
3) Low profile ramps - I use THESE. See NOTE #1 below.
4) UPF64R filter part number(s) 12670058, 12674698, and 12699847 - see NOTE #2 below
5) ratcheting socket wrench with 15mm hex socket
6) 76mm 14 flute oil filter wrench - I use THIS one.
7) disposable vinyl gloves
8) shop/paper towels
9) funnels - I use one for used oil and one for new oil
(optional/as needed)
new drain plug gasket or new drain plug - see NOTE #3 below
hand torque wrench

NOTE #1 - You can do this without ramps if you have a shallow pan and don't mind less room to work. The low profile ramps work great for this car. I have tried higher ramps but the steep angle of the ramp rubbed on the front of the car because it is so low. Why some owners lower it further I do not know (but I know why they never show pics of the ravaged front of the car)!

NOTE #2 - The manual calls for a UPF64R filter for 2016-2017 1.5T Malibus. Most GM dealers use PF64 because there are bulletins that list that as the part and at one point UPF64R was in short supply so GM approved usage of PF64 until supply was available. Because PF64 is about 50% cheaper, most dealers use it. Also, the 2018+ 1.5T Malibus also specify PF64 (but they also specify 0W20 oil). On top of that, both UPF64R and PF64 have undergone revision back in 2019. While the color of UPF64R changed, weight only changed slightly. PF64 color stayed the same but the "new" PF64 is about 15% lighter. That said, just use the UPF64R as specified in the manuals. You can use the old PF64 if you want, but I'd stay away from the new PF64. See photos with part numbers:

Liquid Camera accessory Fluid Rectangle Gas

NOTE #3 - A replacement drain plug gasket is GM part number 12616850. See photo below of proper gasket and replacement. I change the gasket every other oil change. A new oil drain plug (which includes the gasket) is GM part number 55577568. In the picture below you will also see a torx head on the drain plug. That is the secondary release if the 15mm hex is stripped. It is a T45. Use the hex as your standard release and tighten.
  • Like
Reactions: !Tommy

Super Moderator
2016 Malibu 1LT 1.5T/6-speed 6T40
4,252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
2. Process

1) Gather tools/supplies listed above and pick a level spot to work.
2) Start the car, drive about 5 minutes, and return to your level work spot. Leave engine on and in P. See NOTE #1.
3) Set one ramp in front of each front tire. Wedge it under the tire tightly to avoid pushing the ramp as you drive forward.
4) Enter car, shift to L, then drive onto the ramps until it settles in the recessed areas. Shift to N to center, then shift to P and set parking/emergency brake. Turn engine off.
5) Pop the hood, exit the car, and release the secondary latch and use the prop rod to secure the raised hood.
6) From the front of the car, look under and locate the oil drain plug and oil filter. See Photo:

7) Place cardboard and drain pan under the oil drain plug. See Photo:

8) Wait a few minutes for oil to settle and cool a bit.
9) Locate the oil dipstick and oil fill cap (see photo below). Remove the dipstick and check the oil condition (should be light/dark brown with no debris. It shouldn't be foamy, milky, or smell like gasoline). You can re-insert the dipstick loosely in the dipstick hole for now. This isn't the time to check level as the car is on ramps and is tilted. It'll be close but slightly off.

10) Remove oil drain plug using wrench and 15mm hex socket. See NOTE #2 and picture below:

11) While it drains into the drain pan, remove the oil fill cap (see photo below and in step 9). The oil fill cap releases lefty-loosey counter-clockwise.

12) Allow oil to drain to a slow drip (or no drip at all). Inspect the drain plug gasket for cracks and replace if necessary. Replace oil drain plug until finger tight (righty-tighty clockwise). Wipe up stray oil on the plug and lower oil pan. Torque oil drain plug to 25 Nm (18 lb ft). Again wipe up stray oil. See NOTE #3.
13) Move drain pan under oil filter.
14) Remove oil filter using oil wrench. This is again a lefty-loosey counter-clockwise release. After loosening a 1/2 turn you can turn by hand. I prefer to loosen it by hand until oil starts to pour down the side of the filter then maybe a quarter turn. Oil should pour down 1/4 of the filter (See photo below). Allow the oil to drain this way until it stops. I then use a quart ziplock bag and unscrew fully then turn upside down and drain the filter into the drain pan. Seal the filter in the ziplock.

15) Wipe up excess oil around the filter flange. Be sure the old filter gasket isn't stuck on the flange. (See photo):

16) Open your new 5W30 dexos1 oil and apply a thin circle of fresh oil onto the new filter gasket. See photo:

17) Install new oil filter by turning clockwise (righty-tighty). Tighten 3/4 to 1 full turn after the gasket makes contact with the sealing surface on the filter mounting. I usually just do this by hand. You can use the wrench of you want but don't tighten more than 1 turn after making contact - that can over compress the gasket and stop it from doing it's job. See photo:

18) Pour in 4 quarts of new 5W30 dexos1 gen3 oil. The capacity is 4.2 quarts but this prevents overfill. It will be adjusted later. See NOTE #4. See Photo:

19) Replace oil fill cap by turning righty-tighty clockwise until it seats and stops and reinsert dipstick until seated fully. Double Check. See Photo:

20) Start the engine and allow to idle 1 min while checking for leaks.
21) Turn off engine and close hood.
22) Carefully remove drain pan from under the car and set aside.
23) Release emergency/parking brake, start engine, and back off ramps. Drive 5 minutes until engine is fully warm. See NOTE #4.
24) Park, shift to P, reset Oil Life Monitor in the DIC, and turn off engine.
25) Wait 10 minutes to allow oil to drain and check dipstick oil level (I move to cleanup during this time). Now add oil as necessary to reach full.

NOTE #1 - I drive 5 minutes instead of just starting and driving onto ramps to not only warm the oil for quicker drain but because if the car is cold and only runs 30 seconds, not only will it drain slowly it won't fully drain. The engine contains parts that are crosshatched to drain slowly because of Auto Stop.

NOTE #2 - This is a simple "lefty-loosy" counter-clockwise release. One quick jerk should get it loose, then turn 1-2 turns to be able to turn it my hand and keep your wrench dry. Use gloves, your hand will get some oil on it. Also keep in mind as you are reaching under the wrench is upside down. You can test the wrench in your hand to make sure it is lefty-loosy counter clockwise before reaching under. With the wrench head on the drain plug and handle pointing toward the driver side, you will pull toward yourself.

NOTE #3 - I do this by feel now. Of course if you have a torque wrench torque by hand to spec. After doing it by hand and checking with my torque wrench I figured out the right spec is about 4 on a scale of 1-10 hand tight (1 being just finger tight, 10 being extreme hand force best I can do). Again, with the head on the drain plug and handle pointing this time toward the passenger side, pull toward yourself to tighten.

NOTE #4 - A lot can be written about how to check oil in this car. Because oil drains into the pan so slowly (especially cold oil), if performed incorrectly you can get an incorrect reading. A while ago dealers had a habit of overfilling. I believe this is because they add approx 4.2 quarts, turn the car on for a 30 sec, then turn it back off and immediately verify oil level. If it is cold and you do it this way, the reading will be low. Seeing it low they top it off and return the car. When you check the oil warm, it is now high. The key is a specific process. You want to drive the car until warm then park and let it sit at least 10 minutes before checking oil. That is why I add 4 quarts, drive, then check the level and top off as necessary. I go with 4 quarts because it is safe and saves me time. On one occasion I poured in what I thought was exactly 4.2 quarts and it was over - because the bottle was slightly over to start. Pouring in 4 isn't harmful and saves having to drain some if over.

Super Moderator
2016 Malibu 1LT 1.5T/6-speed 6T40
4,252 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
3. Cleanup

1) Use an old oil container and funnel to drain used oil from your drain pan. To accomplish this one time you must take a container to the disposal or recycler and get the container back. From then on they will just take the container and used oil.

2) Take your oil and filter to a disposal facility or recycler. My local AutoZone and NAPA take oil and filters.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.