Chevrolet Malibu Forums banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all, I've had to do this job twice since our 2012 1LT was purchased new, so I figure it applies to most 7th gen owners out there, and maybe beyond. Ours has 80,000 miles on it.

  • The problem is, there are multiple different cosmetic designs of this same switch, and it's been a crap shoot in my experience as to which you'll get when you order one, doesn't matter if it's Delco, Dorman, SMP, Airtex-Wells, whatever. The rocker switch has a couple different designs in particular, and they are not interchangeable. The reason this switch always fails is because it's inadequate for the current drawn by the DC motors in the mirrors, and the contacts eventually melt. I know some of you have strong feelings about Dorman parts, but in this case, it doesn't matter what you use. I think most Dorman parts are just fine. Short of completely redesigning the circuits with a proper relay, this is the fix. The switch will probably fail again. PLEASE NOTE, if the 2 amp fuse in the passenger footwell is blown, you'll want to address why it blew before proceeding. Typically it's resistance in the switch, but it can also be the motors in the mirrors are bad, so check them out too in that case. Don't ever just throw in a higher amperage fuse to bypass the underlying problem. If there's a short, you could have voltage going somewhere that could cause expensive damage, like into the ECU or worse, cause a fire.
0830191621.jpg

The rocker switch on the right is the original piece, and the one on the left came on my Dorman replacement. Notice the original is rounded and the replacement is square.

0830191628_HDR.jpg

The problem is, the new rocker switch doesn't fit into the cluster in the door. So you must transfer the old rocker to your new switch to make it fit without cutting pieces of your interior, which is very easy. I'm going to show only the process on the bench. Removing the switch cluster from the door is very straightforward. Peel the rubber pad out of the bottom of the hand grab, and remove the two torx fasteners underneath. Pull up at the end where the hand grab is, and pull toward the back of the car. Disconnect the electrical connectors and it's free.

First, carefully remove the mirror switch from the cluster by GENTLY prying the clips on either side. Keep in mind you'll likely be back to do this job later, so it's to your advantage to keep things in tact.

0830191602a.jpg

Then you'll need to pop the tactile rocker off both switches. Keep in mind there is a small spring detent inside, so be careful it doesn't go flying across the room. Do this slowly and carefully to avoid breaking anything.

0830191606.jpg

0830191605a.jpg

Do the same on your new switch, being careful not to mix up which is good, and which is broken. Place the detent spring/ plunger from the NEW switch into your OLD tactile rocker. That part can wear out too. Don't worry, these are only cosmetic and tactile parts, you won't be transferring old electrical contacts into your new switch.

Snap the old rocker onto the new switch, and you've got what you need. It only goes on one way. If it won't click on, turn it 180 degrees.

15671979100262357379172905308984.jpg

Snap the new switch in, and reassemble.

15671981899241429299332614933474.jpg

Hope this helps some folks, as this Dorman part is the most easily accessible one I can find. It is always in stock on Amazon.

Cheers!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
17,316 Posts
I added a link to this thread to the How-To Sticky so folks will be able to find it easily in the future.
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top