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Remove the engine cover. Find the two small cylinders just to the left of the #1 spark plug. They are called the intake & exhaust camshaft position (CMP) actuator solenoids. I recommend that you replace them both. But if you choose, you can just replace the intake actuator for a 10 or 11 code or the exhaust actuator for a 13 or 14 code. There are no aftermarket versions available...just the OEM ACDelco. Either get from a dealer or (probably cheaper) online (though a bit harder to find online than at a dealer). Just remove the hold-down bolts & pull up on the actuators. Put engine oil on the new o-rings & don't over-torque the hold-down bolts (torque spec is only 7 ft-lbs). The actuators are keyed differently (& have different part numbers) so you can't interchange them.

  • Part #
  • Intake: 12646783
  • Exhaust: 12646784

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I see in this post that it says no Aftermarket replacements available...granted this was posted about 6 months ago, but I did buy an aftermarket Exhaust Camshaft Solenoid from Oreilly's yesterday and installed it. CEL just went off today...we will see how reliable/durable it is. Just an FYI, there are some becoming available.

The one I bought was $44.
 

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Remove the engine cover. Find the two small cylinders just to the left of the #1 spark plug. They are called the intake & exhaust camshaft position (CMP) actuator solenoids. I recommend that you replace them both. But if you choose, you can just replace the intake actuator for a 10 or 11 code or the exhaust actuator for a 13 or 14 code. There are no aftermarket versions available...just the OEM ACDelco. Either get from a dealer or (probably cheaper) online (though a bit harder to find online than at a dealer). Just remove the hold-down bolts & pull up on the actuators. Put engine oil on the new o-rings & don't over-torque the hold-down bolts (torque spec is only 7 ft-lbs). The actuators are keyed differently (& have different part numbers) so you can't interchange them.

Part #
Intake: 12646783
Exhaust: 12646784

http://www.chevymalibuforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2521&stc=1&d=1352699374
-----------------------

@ 68k still a warranty ticket>?

Have an extended 6/120
 

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Are your connectors in good shape to your Solenoids? Also, are you low on oil? What viscocity do you use? Has it been changed recently? All these factors could make this code pop up, especially if you changed the solenoid....report back and we can help you from there.
 

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Furthermore - when I unplugged mine to replace them, one connector was saturated pretty well with engine oil, believe it was the intake one - closest to the front bumper. I used electrical contact cleaner spray to clean it all out and let it air dry about 5 minutes before I plugged it back into the new sensor.

Yours might be wet w/ oil and not making good connection or giving faulty reading.

Good luck!
 
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Remove the engine cover. Find the two small cylinders just to the left of the #1 spark plug. They are called the intake & exhaust camshaft position (CMP) actuator solenoids. I recommend that you replace them both. But if you choose, you can just replace the intake actuator for a 10 or 11 code or the exhaust actuator for a 13 or 14 code. There are no aftermarket versions available...just the OEM ACDelco. Either get from a dealer or (probably cheaper) online (though a bit harder to find online than at a dealer). Just remove the hold-down bolts & pull up on the actuators. Put engine oil on the new o-rings & don't over-torque the hold-down bolts (torque spec is only 7 ft-lbs). The actuators are keyed differently (& have different part numbers) so you can't interchange them.

Part #
Intake: 12646783
Exhaust: 12646784

This is a great post. For those like me who are afraid of breaking plastic parts I thought I would add some details about removing the engine cover. The cover is held to the throttle body by a band clamp. The screw is accessed from the driver side of the vehicle. On my 09, the engine cover has a slot which allows you to see the screw head that is used to adjust the clamp. Using the slot for viewing makes this 100% easier.

Once that clamp is loosened, there is a hose on the front passenger side that can easily be removed. Then pull up on the rear cover. Each side is just pushed onto a rubber grommet. Once the back is loose, pull up around the throttle body in the front. It may take some gentle rocking but if the clamp is loose it will wiggle free.
 

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I had P0013 (Exhaust Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Control Circuit) come up after finishing a 5 hour drive about a year ago. Basically I cleared the code, drove back to Toronto with no problems. Code hasnt come back and I've put about 10,000km more on it. The only other work I've done after on the car is changing the plugs.
 

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Remove the engine cover. Find the two small cylinders just to the left of the #1 spark plug. They are called the intake & exhaust camshaft position (CMP) actuator solenoids. I recommend that you replace them both. But if you choose, you can just replace the intake actuator for a 10 or 11 code or the exhaust actuator for a 13 or 14 code. There are no aftermarket versions available...just the OEM ACDelco. Either get from a dealer or (probably cheaper) online (though a bit harder to find online than at a dealer). Just remove the hold-down bolts & pull up on the actuators. Put engine oil on the new o-rings & don't over-torque the hold-down bolts (torque spec is only 7 ft-lbs). The actuators are keyed differently (& have different part numbers) so you can't interchange them.

Part #
Intake: 12646783 ss by 12615873
Exhaust: 12646784 ss by 12655421

http://www.chevymalibuforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2521&stc=1&d=1352699374
Just had this same problem on our 2009 Malibu.

I changed exhaust cam solenoid now to see if check engine light (CEL) (MIL) stays out after I reset it.

  • Point of information 12646784 number has now been superceded by 12655421
  • Point of information 12646783 number has now been superceded by 12615873

Solenoid valve was listed for 56.14 but with my discount I got it for $45.46 at Chevy dealer.

OReilly's had it listed for 49.99 under Dorman 917-216 number but did not have it in stock. Amazon lists Dorman valve for $24.75 on sale.
 

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My 2013 has a camshaft code the dealer said...but they cleared it changed the oil and it went away for a bit now its back. When its really warm and been running for a while it bogs out going up hills and the exhaust sounds really loud like it has a hole in it. But it comes and goes. Bringing it back tomorrow. Could this be the problem you guys are discussing?
 

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2011 Malibu flagging codes P0016 P0017, I have replaced the intake and exhaust solenoids and still have a check engine light. On top of that the engine is idling rough when at stops. It also seems to have poor acceleration..dies anyone have any ideas please help..Spring
 

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2011 Malibu flagging codes P0016 P0017, I have replaced the intake and exhaust solenoids and still have a check engine light. On top of that the engine is idling rough when at stops. It also seems to have poor acceleration..dies anyone have any ideas please help..Spring
What sensor manufacturer did you replace the OE ones with? This might seem like a dumb question but have you manually cleared the code and cycled the monitors? When was the last time you changed/checked the oil level of the car?
 

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Was driving on the highway for about 40 minutes, arrived at destination, 2008 Malibu sat off for 20 minutes. Started it up and engine light on. AutoZone scan was P0013. Car seems to run fine. Guy at AZ said it was cam position sensor, didn't say anything about a solenoid and replacement part he showed was not the solenoid. What do I replace or check, the sensor or the solenoids? Guy said could try cleaning sensor cause it was magnetic, check plug and wiring, bolt holding sensor down.

Thanks,
Mike
 

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Just a thought. It's worthwhile finding out the nominal resistance on the camshaft actuator solenoids. If the resistance is higher than nominal, the actuator is on the way out and will eventually go open circuit and fail permanently. For the ecotec 2.4 nominal resistance is around 12 ohm (measured on a new one). Heat and electrical coils really don't mix that well.
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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Just a thought. It's worthwhile finding out the nominal resistance on the camshaft actuator solenoids. If the resistance is higher than nominal, the actuator is on the way out and will eventually go open circuit and fail permanently. For the ecotec 2.4 nominal resistance is around 12 ohm (measured on a new one). Heat and electrical coils really don't mix that well.
For your very first post you seem to be quite helpful. Got any pics of your ride to share? I ask because this is a forum about Malibus and your avatar says Captiva.
 

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Thanks Driven Daily, for your welcome. I'm in Australia and the Malibu is not a model here. The Captiva is a Holden (GM's Australian presence) branded SUV car from Daewoo with an ecotec 2.4 engine the same as used in the US. The car belongs to my daughter. When I first started chasing up the check engine light I found P0010 fault I read through a number of forums regarding this engine and I noticed people recommended just changing the solenoid/oil control valve. Others recommended cleaning the valve. Neither made sense in my mind without knowing the "why". I note the engine is now intermittently developing P0014 fault which is for the exhaust cam actuator so I'm about to order one from the States. They only cost $US40- $60 over there, here they are $AUD250- $300. Hopefully it gets here before complete failure. The resistance today was 17 ohms.

Australian Captiva looks like this.

Automotive parking light Tire Vehicle Wheel Car


pete
 
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