Just so you're aware, this thread is for Gen7 vehicles and yours is a Gen8. It's possible that the issues, error code, and correction will apply to both models but beware that it also may not.
How-to: Fix codes P0010, P0011, P0013 or P0014 on the 2.4L ecotec engine:
41 - 59 of 59 Posts
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hi, Trying to find the instructions to clear the code p0013 for 2012 Chevy Equinox. Replaced the part and heard there are instructions. Can you please help me, Maggie Richter
Joined
·
702 Posts
That's good to know. When you say low, do you mean physically low or low on life? If you mean physically low, what would make it that low during that time? Is a gasket failing? I changed the oil on my 2011 a couple of weeks ago and it had plenty left in it and I went about 6,000 miles on it.
both issues, low oil level and low % life-left, can cause the CEL. I've seen dirty oil cause it several times, even if oil-life% is still above 0. I've seen oil from a car not driven for over a year with only 1500 miles cause it. I've seen the wrong oil type cause it. many of these smaller engines require DexOS-type oil. buy a good quality oil and filter if you DIY and you'll be fine. I only use synthetic.
Joined
·
2 Posts
What do you do after you have had a professional replace these parts and you are still getting the P0010 code?
Joined
·
2 Posts
What do you do if you have had a professional change these actuators and the code P0010 still exists? I changed the oil three days ago and have been religious about it over the past 7 years. At what point is it safe to say (likely) that I have a faulty ECM? I have had electrical problems from the get go with this car, and I bought it brand new. It is always a sensor, though, and never the underlying problem that needs to be fixed. For example, I have encountered: faulty traction control warning signals, brake lights failing to illuminate, faulty ESC warnings, brake lights staying illuminated, car not starting, ABS light coming and going, tire pressure monitor light giving faulty readings, cruise control failing to work, faulty seat belt lights..... Not sure I can remember them all.... What does an ECM cost to replace? Likely more than the car is worth? This is a 2010 Malibu with 75,000 miles on it..... Thanks!
Joined
·
4 Posts
Read this thread beginning to end and someone came close but didn't solve the problem I have. Back in the 60's I did a lot of light engine work (no rebuilds) and in the 70's a lot of VW work. I include that info in that I have some experience but not much since the dreaded computerization of the automobile, thus my user name.
I'm trying to replace the intake and exhaust solenoids. The problem are those blasted electrical connectors.
My Plan Beginning This Morning
1. Unhook negative term of battery
2. Unhook air cleaner hoses
3. Remove oil cap & replace w/ towel
4. Remove engine cover
5. Replace the 2 parts which involves un- screwing and re-screwing
6. Reverse steps 1-4
I saw a girl on utube do it in 15 minutes.
I figured if SHE can do it in 15, I should be able to do it in 60 minutes.
Well...
1. I've always seen negative cable clamps very similar to the positive cable clamp. Nope!! This puppy was like a washer that slipped over the terminal. O.K., I consider myself pretty flexible in my thinking. But now I'm facing a North Korean nut that's between either 8mm and 10 mm or 5/16 and 7/16.
So she was done with the whole project in 15 minutes... I got the battery disconnected in not much more than 15 minutes.
2. Her hose connections were not that much easier than mine.
3. I was faster than the girl removing the oil cap because I didn't have to explain what I was doing and why.
4. Her engine cover had 3 screws right on top so access wasn't even a consideration. I had only 1 screw and 3 pop-in (or pop-out)snaps. For the 1 screw I had to deal with, I needed a 12" screwdriver, a flashlight and now, physical flexibility.
So...3 hours later, (did I mention I have COPD and we’re surrounded by wildfires?)
5. Now I am at the meat of the matter...
What I need is a video with slo-mo and written notes explaining how on earth
one gets those fracking, electrical connectors to the Camshaft Solenoids
disconnected.
After all that I hope I posted correctly.
I'm trying to replace the intake and exhaust solenoids. The problem are those blasted electrical connectors.
My Plan Beginning This Morning
1. Unhook negative term of battery
2. Unhook air cleaner hoses
3. Remove oil cap & replace w/ towel
4. Remove engine cover
5. Replace the 2 parts which involves un- screwing and re-screwing
6. Reverse steps 1-4
I saw a girl on utube do it in 15 minutes.
I figured if SHE can do it in 15, I should be able to do it in 60 minutes.
Well...
1. I've always seen negative cable clamps very similar to the positive cable clamp. Nope!! This puppy was like a washer that slipped over the terminal. O.K., I consider myself pretty flexible in my thinking. But now I'm facing a North Korean nut that's between either 8mm and 10 mm or 5/16 and 7/16.
So she was done with the whole project in 15 minutes... I got the battery disconnected in not much more than 15 minutes.
2. Her hose connections were not that much easier than mine.
3. I was faster than the girl removing the oil cap because I didn't have to explain what I was doing and why.
4. Her engine cover had 3 screws right on top so access wasn't even a consideration. I had only 1 screw and 3 pop-in (or pop-out)snaps. For the 1 screw I had to deal with, I needed a 12" screwdriver, a flashlight and now, physical flexibility.
So...3 hours later, (did I mention I have COPD and we’re surrounded by wildfires?)
5. Now I am at the meat of the matter...
What I need is a video with slo-mo and written notes explaining how on earth
one gets those fracking, electrical connectors to the Camshaft Solenoids
disconnected.
After all that I hope I posted correctly.
Attachments
Joined
·
1 Posts
Just for Reference.
No matter what, using the OE brand is highly recommended.
Gen 8 Malibu exists in Australia, in fact, Holden designed that model!
Joined
·
502 Posts
Remove oil cap, unhook air hose, unhook PCV hose(I think that's it... lower left side), and unhook throttle body (low center thru the little hole you can see the screw).
For the record: 2009 2.4L and I have gone thru about 4 sets of these in 110K miles... if I was not a DIYer I would have gone insane by now, but with the parts being $20 a set I just see it as a little Oil Change add-on activity.
For all the problems our Gen 7's seem to have, I will say I'm pleased the aftermarket supplies affordable parts and the car is decently simple to work on from a POWERTRAIN perspective. Headlights? Random Stuff? not as much I know...
Cheers all.
You have gone through 4 sets because you didn't replace with ACDelco parts. The $20 aftermarket replacements are trash. Almost no one on this site has had to replace the OEM parts more than once.
Joined
·
502 Posts
seems we are about even on costs, then, and I’ve had the pleasure of a bit more wrench time in the driveway!
as they say, YMMV. Enjoy the holiday weekend.
dropped this note as it might be helpful, and it sounds like indeed it is a lesson! If you want no maintenance for a while in this dept it seems Delco is the way... but if you take it around the corner don’t be surprised if you hit this again in a few years. They aren’t using delco parts.
You'll see in most VVT solenoid threads, a number of members here will point out that the solenoid actuators need to be ACDelco parts like a broken record. There is at least one report here of brand new aftermarket solenoids not working and the owner ends up believing something else is wrong.
It's the same story with a lot of aftermarket sensors and minor wear and tear items. If it's super cheap, it's probably a lousy part. Conversely, in rare instances the aftermarket can be better, like stabilizer end links and oil filters. We do our best on this forum to recommend good repair parts.
Joined
·
502 Posts
Makes sense to me, seems like I’ve gotten lucky in a way—based on mine all working (temporarily). Knowing this all, I’d have definitely gone with Delco in the first place but I can’t change that now...
I might keep an eye out for a sale then as it sounds like I’d be good for the remainder of the service life of the car pretty much with a genuine part.
I might keep an eye out for a sale then as it sounds like I’d be good for the remainder of the service life of the car pretty much with a genuine part.
41 - 59 of 59 Posts
