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How to: Restore your Malibu to a Better-Than-New Condition - Part 1: Exterior

14K views 23 replies 9 participants last post by  DBATEM40 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello, I’m glad that you have chosen to learn how to properly detail and restore your Malibu to a better than new condition. This is Part 1 of a three part how-to; the first part covering the exterior, the second part covering the engine, and the third part covering the interior. All sections will outline the proper techniques required to detail the vehicle without causing any additional damage, such as micro marring or staining. I have been doing professional detailing for over 10 years now (more heavily in the last 3) and I believe my experience is seen in my work. Because of this, I have accumulated thousands of dollars worth of detailing products, some of which you likely will not have. In light of this, I will attempt to show you alternatives when specialty products are used. I hope you all enjoy this as you may get tips that you have never even thought of.

How can I restore my vehicle to a “better than new condition?”

When a vehicle leaves the lot, often it has been several months since the vehicle was assembled. During this time it sits in holding lots next to industrial plants, gets driven cross country in open trailers, and then sits on a dealers lot where they either hose or pressure wash them followed by a wipe down using a limited set of microfibers, or even worse “rags”. This exposes the vehicles to many airborne contaminants and subjects the paint to abuse before you even purchase it. This abuse continues throughout the life of your Malibu. Through the proper techniques, you can eliminate nearly all flaws caused by improper washing techniques and routine use, restore the paint to a new condition, and then use proper protectants to really bring out the most your Malibu will have to offer.

How do I know what I need to do?

Often, people mistake or misuse the terminology, so before we begin, I will give a run over of the order detailing should be performed in. As you will see, this is a very generalized list, but will explain the location of each step.

- Rinse and Foam vehicle to prepare surface for cleaning. This will remove heavily particles and provide a slick surface to work on, while also loosening the bond between dirt and paint.
- Wash
- Clay (you can perform the baggie test [a technique I will introduce you to soon] to see if claying is necessary). It is always necessary to clay prior to performing any correction, as contaminants embedded within the paint will mar and scratch the paint if not removed first
- If the paint is in need of correction now is when it is performed. Correction is also known as polishing. During correction, you will remove all of the swirls and improve any Random Isolated Deep Scratches (RIDS). It will also remove any of the oxidation that has occurred. Polishing must be done before any waxes or sealants are applied to the vehicle, as the polishes will simply remove all the wax you just put on. This is done best through machine correction, although it can be done by hand, however similar results are near impossible to achieve.
-- Compound or polish (Compounds are heavier grit polishes and should be followed up with a lighter grade polish to eliminate the hazing caused by compounding, this is where the term two-step correction comes from)
- Glaze (optional)
- Apply a sealant, wax, or both (sealant first)
- Quick detailer for added pop

Now that that is out of the way, lets move on to the good part, the cleaning. When washing a vehicle, the first place to start is always the wheels, tires, and wheel wells. This is done so that none of the contaminants on the wheels gets onto the paint through splashing or cross contamination. Additionally, this is done first so that water does not dry on the vehicles paint while you clean the wheels last, causing water spots and mineral deposits to appear where you just washed. 
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Wheels, Tires, and Wheel-wells


Supplies

1. 5-Gallon wash bucket
2. Grit guard
3. Meguiar's Ultimate Wash & Wax Shampoo (I use this only for wheels)
4. Iron-X iron remover
5. Fairly soft scouring pad
6. Hard bristle tire brush
7. Daytona Speedmaster wheel brush
8. Mothers wheel well brush
9. Short handled brush
10. Lugnut brush
11. Fireman’s style hose nozzle


1. Begin by hosing the wheel and well (work on one wheel at a time) off to remove brake dust and heavy dirt particles. I use a Fire Hose style nozzle as it gives excellent control over the spray pattern and it is one of the few that seem to last

2. Put some water into a 5-gallon wash bucket, then insert about ½ oz of your choice of car washing soap in. Agitate until bubbles have formed. Insert the grit guard into bottom.

3. At this point, I take the long handled wheel well brush and cover (not clean yet) all the parts with soapy water to begin allowing the soap to do its work.


4. Clean the wheel-wells now using the long handled brush and scouring pad. Wheel wells are a key point that show the difference between a car wash and a car detail. Spend some time on these, as they have likely been neglected in the past and are subject to heavy abuse. Clean the spring and strut assemblies also. Use the scouring pad only on the plastic wells. With a little bit of reaching you should be able to clean the entire well.


5. Using the hard bristled brush, clean the tires. This is one of the few times you will be able to push as hard as you want, so get it out now, because most other steps require gentle rubbing. Clean the entire tire, attempting to remove as much staining and dirt as possible.


6. Clean the wheels using the long and short handled brush, as well as my favorite brush, the Daytona Speedmaster.


7. Clean the lugnuts using the designated brush.


8. Rinse off all dirt and soap.

9. I now spray the wheels with Iron-X iron partial remover. Allow the solution to sit (3-5 minutes), then agitate with short handled brush and rinse well. When applied, it chemically breaks down the iron on the wheels (and safely on paint if desired), and turns it into nothing more than a purple drip. As you see, once the solution comes in contact with iron, it turns from clear to purple.



10. When finished, rinse well with clean water and move onto the next wheel. Empty the 5-gallon bucket and rinse. The wheels and tires will appear again later in the detail, but for now, we can move on.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Washing

We are attempting to remove as much of the dirt and contaminants as possible without scratching or marring the paint. In order to do this, we use several techniques that reduce the chances significantly. You will notice that I use the “two-bucket” method for washing, as it helps prevent the dirt you just cleaned from getting back on the paint. The less marring on the paint, the less often you will have to perform a correction.

--- Key Points ---
- Use the two-bucket method to reduce the chance of damage to the paint. One bucket is your soap mixture and the other bucket is clean water. The use of a grit guard is optional but it helps separate the dirt you just washed off from the soapy water that you want to get.
- A micro-fiber wash mitt is the optimal tool for cleaning a vehicle. Boar’s hair brushes are a good choice as well, but are costly, starting upwards of $75 for a standard size brush. The synthetic nylon brushes from auto parts store tend to simply move the dirt around, which can greatly increase the chance of scratching. While they “get the job done,” I do not recommend these brushes.
- You will see I use a foam cannon. It provides a thick layer of foam on the vehicle and provides a good surface to work with. If you do not have this, you should still start by rinsing loose debris off the vehicle.
- During any use of microfiber clothes, use a double fold. This will give you 8 workable sides to perform the job.
- A good detailer will never miss anything. Because of this, take off the license plate. Its two simple screws that hide a world of dirt and debris. It will also prevent the license plate from scratching the paint if you were to wash it on the vehicle.


Supplies

1. Grit Guard
2. 5 – Gallon Bucket (Qty: 2)
3. Wolfgang Foam Spray Gun
4. Hose Nozzle (with quick-connect for foam gun)
5. Fan Spray Tip (for foam gun)
6. 1-Inch Boars Hair Detailer Brush
7. Mini Detailing Brush (Acid brush)
8. Pinnacle Bug Sponge
9. Cobra Micro-Chenille Wash Mitt
10. Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss
11. Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow-Foam Soap


1. Start by rinsing the vehicle of any loose dirt or debris. Areas such as the panels behind the wheels, the trunk deck, and the front bumper are key.



2. I now use the foam cannon to give the car a thick layer of foam to work on. It helps reduce friction and lowers the possibility of scratches. When using a foam cannon, start from the bottom and work up. It will give loosen dirt a slick surface to run down as you move your way up. Foam the entire vehicle, rinse, and then refoam the vehicle.


3. Using the two-bucket wash method described above, we will now was the vehicle. The soap mixture I am using is 1/2 oz soap to 3 gallons of water; the ratios may vary depending upon product. The other bucket is just water.


3a. Begin at the top and work down. This will prevent dirt from being splashed onto the areas you just cleaned. This part is a little personal preference.
My order tends to look like this:
- Hood
- Front bumper
- Front quarter panels
- Roof
- Front windshield, side windows, and rear window.
- While doing that, I also will wash all areas above the window line, which include the pillars in both the front and back
- Side door
- Trunk and rear bumper
- Other side door

3b. When washing, you should be lightly pressing against the paint, however not hard enough to cause scratches. After each section, rinse off the microfiber wash mitt in the designated bucket, making sure to agitate it against the grit-guard. Rinse each panel with water from the hose to remove the soap and dirt. Dunk the mitt into the soapy wash solution and move onto the next section.


3c. Some areas will require special attention. The front bumper and side mirrors may have excess bug guts splattered all around. I use this specially designed scrubbing pad from Pinnacle to help in these situations. If you are using a bug sponge, make sure that it is fully saturated before beginning.


3d. Pay close attention to all the cracks and crevices. Small detailing brushes will allow you to clean in hard to reach areas, such as around the fog light, behind the grill, and down by the bottom of the windshield. Additionally, use it to clean the gas cap area.



3e. Keep in mind, to prevent damage further down the line, do a good job of washing. That means getting the spots where the panels curve under beneath the door, etc.


4. After rinsing the vehicle to remove any additional soap, begin drying. The best way is with a leaf blower, however micro-fiber cloths will get the job done. If you do choose to use a micro-fiber, choose a soft one, as this is the most likely time to scratch the paint, being there are few, if any lubricants for contaminants to glide along.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Claying

Supplies

1. Mothers Showtime Instant Detailer
2. Microfiber clothes
3. Pinnacle Ultra Poly-clay


1. We will now begin to clay the vehicle. I perform this regularly with mine, so as you see, I use Pinnacle Ultra-Poly clay, a fine-grade clay that is safe for frequent use. If you purchased your clay in the auto parts store, it is likely a medium-grade clay, which will assist you if this has never been done before.

2. Form your clay into an even, palm-sized disk.


3. This will be done one panel at a time. Begin by spraying the panel with the quick detailer solution.

4. Rub the clay against the panel. You should be able to feel the embedded contaminants being lifted up. When you run the clay over an area and you feel no resistance, you have completed that section. Make sure that you press hard enough to remove the contaminants. Also make sure that you are using enough lubricant. The clay should glide over the paint, not get stuck to it.


4a. Fold the clay over regularly and knead it into a new disk. This will prevent any pieces you just pulled up from marring or scratching the paint. On average, I reshape my clay about one to three times per panel. Now is the time to pretend you’re a kid with some play-dough and regularly knead the clay.

5. Wipe off the remaining quick detailer with a microfiber cloth until dry.


6. Perform the baggie test and compare the results with a panel you have not done. The results will likely astound you.

Baggie Test - Take a plastic bag, the cheaper and thinner, the better. Place your hand inside and rub it against the clayed area of the paint. The results should be smooth. Do the same to an area that has not been clayed and see how rough it truly is. The bag prevents the oils and dead skin cells from impeding on the reception of bumps. Simply put, your hand is not sensitive enough to feel these bumps. By placing a bag between, you are able to accurately measure the contaminants left. This is actually a really cool thing that everyone should try, even if just for fun.


7. Complete step 3-5 for all of the body panels and glass (windows and windshield). Quick detailer dries quickly, so work in small areas.


8. Admire your work up to this point.


Your Malibu is now completely unprotected from the environment. At this point we will begin the paint correction. If you are choosing not to do this, skip forward to section on Sealing and Waxing.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Paint Correction

If you are unable or simply do not wish to perform a correction at this time, continue following this tutorial at Sealing and Waxing located directly below.

Correcting the paint will remove swirls, scratches, and some other blemishes. Additionally, it can help restore shine to a vehicle and enhance the mirror like surface.

I two-step polished my Malibu, first with a fine polish and extra light cutting pad, then I used a Jeweling pad and a Wolfgang glaze (which despite being a glaze, has very minimal polishing capabilities, a rarity in glazes) to finish it off. The results are stunning; it’s like looking in a high definition mirror.

Coming Soon!
--- Im working on writing this part up.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Sealing and Waxing (LSP – Last Step Product)

This is crucial towards ensuring that your Malibu stay healthy for years to come. Here, there are many options, ranging from spray waxes all the way to permanent coatings, such as Opti-Coat. Each have their advantages and disadvantages, but I will quickly give them a run-over.

-Spray Wax: Easy to apply, just spray, wipe, and buff. Shortest protection, usually only 4 - 8 weeks.

Paste Wax: Most difficult to apply. Long lasting, up to 6 months. Application and curing times vary by product. These are the preferred choice by many detailers as the results are often unmatched by synthetic products. The higher the carnauba content, the better. Gives a “gentle glow” to the vehicle.

Sealants: Synthetic waxes. Often easy to apply, most are spray and wipe, although some should be applied by machine. Longest lasting, up to 2 years for some brands, but on average 6-12 months. Sealants can sometimes be combined with glazes, as in the Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze, which can temporarily cover up light scratches and swirls. Sealants give a “hard candy shell” look to the vehicle.

Paint Coatings: These are similar to sealants although the tend to have a much longer lifespan. These are relatively new to the market, but have been making a powerful entrance. Opti-Coat 2.0 is an example of a permanent paint coating; it can last for years and years because it essentially creates a sealant style, UV protectant, clear coat on the vehicle.

I will be using Wolfgang Fuzion Estate Wax. The canister that I have is only 3 ounces, a standard quality jar at the store is normally 11 oz ($17.99), yet this small jar still goes for $60 (the larger 8 oz size going for $195 with a refill). When you think, can a wax really be worth this cost, the answer is yes. This gives amazing mirror like reflections that cannot be matched. The shine appears miles deep. As you will see at the end, the answer is definitely yes.

Supplies


1. Begin by ensuring the car is completely clean. The foam applicator pad will not absorb dirt but rather spread it around and scratch the surface.

2. Take the jar in one hand and the applicator pad in the other. Gently press the foam pad into the jar and spin the jar, not the pad. It should be lightly coated and not caked on. Often I have seen people scoop out the wax and smear the paste around, this is NOT the way to do it.


3. Thinly spread the wax onto a select area of paint. The key here is thin. Did I mention about spreading it out thin? More wax is not better. The coat is only going to be what is in direct contact with the clear coat. This means that a thick layer does not make a thick layer stick after buffing. If you want it thicker, you must wait until the wax fully cures, 12-24 hours, and then reapply. Applying a second coat often will not even thicken the layers as one would hope, but rather fill any areas that may have been missed. Wax bonds easily to paint, not other wax.

3a. If you learned your waxing technique from a viewing of the karate kid, forget it. The proper technique involves spreading the wax in the direction the wind travels. This is especially true on uncorrected vehicles that may have wind scratches or other imperfections, likely travailing in similar directions. This means make small overlapping passes going in the same direction, not continuous swirls on the surface.


4. Most modern waxes are wipe on / wipe off. This means that you do not have to wait for the wax to “haze” as you did in the past (still consult product directions). After applying the wax to your selected area, grab the microfiber cloth and buff clean.

5. Take another microfiber and give a final wipe to that area.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Finishing Touches

There are many finishing touches that must be completed in order to restore the Malibu to that better than new condition we are after.


Glass

(My windows are tinted at 5%, therefore you do not experience the effect through pictures. If you are cleaning class, I would highly suggest this cleaner, as they strive for, and achieve, not just clean, but invisibility.

1. Apply Glass cleaner (Stoner Invisible Glass cleaner) to surface of glass.

2. Using a microfiber cloth, rub the solution into the glass until clean.

3. Buff dry with other side of microfiber.




Wheel wells, Wheels, and Tires
I know it seems as though we have already spent a lot of time on the wheels and tire area, but we need to do a few more things to ensure perfection.


-Wheel wells


1. Spray a microfiber cloth with a degreasing spray. I am using Purple power, its paint safe, and I got 2 of these bottles for $5. While it is paint safe, it does have the potential to strip off wax, hence spraying the microfiber.

2. Rub the wet part of the microfiber against the entire inside of the wheel well. This step is to remove any remaining dirt that may have been missed in the wash. It will also remove any staining that may have occurred.

3. When finished, buff dry.


-Tires

There are a plethora of available products that can be used for tire protection and shine.
Essentially they can be broken down into two categories, sprays and gels. My personal preference, and the preference of most professionals, is the gel. If you have never used a gel, consider giving it a shot. They are actually easier to apply, don’t get over everything, and tend to splatter less after you first drive the vehicle.
Gels can be applied with either a specialty sponge or brush. If neither are available, a microfiber cloth will do the trick.


1. When using a sponge, apply a minimal amount of product to the pad. When using a brush, pour a small amount onto a flat, non-porous surface, and dip just the tips in.

2. Work product into the tire, ensuring that all the small cracks have been filled.

2a. If using a brush, follow with the sponge to remove any excess to avoid slinging during acceleration.

2b. Make sure to get right up to the wheels, but not onto them.

2c. Avoid covering any of the surfaces that come in contact with the road, as it can cause traction issues, especially under wet conditions.


-Wheels


1. Using a spray wax (Meguiar’s Ultimate Quick Wax), mist a microfiber cloth.

2. Take microfiber cloth and rub the wax into every crack and crevice.

3. After all surfaces have been covered, buff the wheel dry.


Finished




Exhaust Tips

Supplies


1. Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish
2. Scouring Pad
3. Microfiber cloth

1. Begin by taking a nickel-sized amount of polish to the inside of the exhaust tip using the scouring pad.

2. Aggressively agitate until the surface contaminants are removed. This may take some time if they have never been cared for. Chrome seems to be quite tough and it is unlikely that damage or staining has occurred to the surface.

3. Continue scrubbing until clean. Ensure that the outside part of the tip is also cleaned.

4. Buff to a high shine.

I did not get the best after picture here, but you can rest assured that they are shining.


Plastic Trim

Even though it is unlikely that the trim has begun to show significant signs of wear, they should still be properly treated in order to maintain their appearance throughout the life of the vehicle. While there is not much plastic trim on the Malibu, there are still some locations that you can find it. On the LTZ model, you will find plastic trim located:
- Under the front bumper
- Under the rear bumper
- On the insides of the mirror
- At the bottom of the windshield where the wipers connect
- Next to the fog lights
- In the center opening on the bottom of the front bumper

Supplies


1. Apply a small amount of product (Meguiar’s Ultimate Black Trim Restorer) onto a microfiber cloth.

2. Rub the product into the plastic, covering fully.

2a. It is not necessary to use a lot of product, a little will often go a long way.

3. Buff the plastic dry, making sure to remove any that may have gotten onto the paint.

Untreated is on the left | Treated is on the right



Final Wipe Down

If the rights products are used, the final wipe down can increase the gloss of the vehicle and give it that show car look. For this, use a very soft microfiber cloth.

Supplies

1. Detailers Pro Series Gloss Quick Detailer
2. Microfiber cloth


1. Mist a body panel with the quick detailer spray.

2. Take the microfiber cloth and buff that area until dry.

3. Do this to all the panels that you just waxed, it should enhance the gloss and shine of the paint.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Results

As you will see, after properly caring for your Malibu, you can achieve astonishing, mirror-like results. I hope everyone learned something. I’m open for any questions you may have.








 
#9 · (Edited)
Wow that is a damn good write up!
Probably should be in the car care section though and stickied for everyone to see.

Thanks for doing that!

One product I can highly recommend is the Meguiars all wheel and tire cleaner. That stuff works like magic on both.
 
#10 ·
Great write up. You really took the time to do it right. I knew most of what you've written. Two questions, where did you get your foam canon? Did you use a hose or a pressure washer. And what kind of soap do you use faith the canon? (Ok 3 questions). Can't wait for the interior write up. I still have some learning to do there,
 
#11 · (Edited)
I stuck it here hoping more people would see it, I think theres info everyone can benefit from and I hope it gets stickied.

Wait till you see part 2 and 3.

Nutcruch
Also, I use Megs chrome wheel cleaner for some my clients. Those Megs wheel cleaners do an excellent job.

gmitch2LT
Thank you.
-I got the foam cannon from Autogeek. You can find them on some detailing supply sites, but I would recommend Autogeek as they are top notch when it comes to car care. They have a good selection of them.
-I use a hose with a fireman's style nozzle, great pressure and durable. Very rarely do I pull out the pressure washer, I don't want to risk damaging the paint on clients vehicles. I usually only use it on trucks that are real muddy.
-The soap I use for washing is the Chemical Guys Wash and Gloss shampoo. In the foam cannon, I use Chemical Guys Honeydew snow-foam soap. I would recommend getting a soap designed for a cannon or gun (theres lots of them) if you want to get it foamy. Regular wash soaps just wont produce enough foam.
 
#12 ·
This is an awesome write up!

Funny you posted this when you did, because I basically just went through this entire process 2 weeks ago with my Santa Fe. It had been 3 years since I purchased it, and the amount of built up grime and the accumulation of water marks had rendered the paint completely dull. I bought the Meguiar's DA Power system and washed --> compounded --> polished --> waxed. The whole process took a lot of time, but the payoff was totally worth it. The paint was shockingly shiny and glass like! I also did the plastic trim and ended up using Bar Keepers Friend to polish the windows and remove the water marks (our water is so terribly full of mineral deposits from the farms around our town).

If anyone is looking for a video demonstration of the techniques that Joeyavhu posted above, find the Drive Clean channel on YouTube and watch 'em all.

Great stuff!
 
#14 ·
Save the webpage or print it out as an XPS document (it really just saves it as a file on your computer, doesn't actually print it)or get a free program called Do PDF and you can save it as a pdf file.
 
#15 ·
I never thought I'd be excited about a simple water sprayer but I just picked up this fireman hoze nozzle for $6.81 at Sams Club

The same one can be found on Amazon for $18.85 [ame]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015AUOSC/ref=s9_simh_gw_p86_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1XRVR7RAT3QVKTT9JK0S&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1389517282&pf_rd_i=507846[/ame]

It is very heavy duty and has a nice strong stream plus it is adjustable to spray in about any pattern you want. Can't wait to wash the car with it this weekend.
If you have a Sams membership make sure you pick this up. Hell, I may go get another one I like it that much :D
 
#17 ·
I've been using Hot Shine spray for the tires for a long time and it looks good but doesn't last a long time and also I hate having to wipe off the wheels after I spray the tires.
I decided to try the Meguiars Endurance tire gel so I picked some up at Advance Auto a couple weeks ago and this stuff is really nice. Very nice shine on the tires and it lasts. We have been through a few rain storms in 2 weeks and both my truck and the Malibu's tires still look good. I also love applying the gel with a tire sponge so no wheel clean up and it uses a lot less of the product doing it this way.
It also has a really nice grape like smell :p

 
#20 ·
Yes indeed. I've even gone and done some detailing work with them at the shop down in south Florida.
 
#22 ·
I know this is kinda old but I really like it. I just got a 05 malibu maxx back in Jan. While I have washed and waxed it, I can't wait to try this. I'm hoping for some awesome results, as it seems the previous owners didn't take very good care of it. Also do you have any pointers on the interior? Mine has the leather interior and was wondering what I should use on it?
 
#23 ·
For the exterior, that step that I never ended up putting up (the paint correction using power DA's) is what will restore the exterior, but giving it a good clay will help you out a lot.

For the interior, the Meguairs Interior cleaner is well-recommended, easy to access from local stores, and does a good job cleaning. It has protectants in it, and the part that I like... it leaves no shine, just the standard matte finish. I order a lot off of Autogeek.com, they have a very good selection and can really help if your unsure of what to do or use. They have a brand called Wolfgang, I use it for my leathers and it has always held up well, although I just tried Chemical Guys Leather cleaner/conditioner, and it is good as well, nice scent too.
 
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