2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
HOW-TO: Written versionI plan on putting this on my 03 very soon. I've already got the parts needed thanks to a post DrivenDaily posted on here. Just trying to figure out which input on the 530T to put the trunk circuit on. Is it the ground-when-armed wire? I also need the connections for the 528T.
How is that "How-To" coming along Driven? =)
I soldered all my connections, including any accessory plugs that I installed, even though they come with crimp connectors. Solid connections with no real chance to corrode!
Parts (all 12V unless otherwise noted)
3M double-stick tape (very small piece!) - I used scrap from my talking back-up system
Micro switch, SPDT - NO=Normally Open, Com=Common, NC=Normally Closed
Wire, stranded, 18-24 ga.
Wire, solid, 18-24 ga.
DEI 528T Time-delay relay
DEI 530T Window up/down module (2 required)
Optional: 3-wire connector plug
Under the front right console you will find 3 BCM's. On them you will find J1, J2, and J3. On the schematics the connectors are labeled X1, X2, and X3. Follow the link below to access the schematics I used:
In figure 58 the BCM signals you need are at the top.
All-door lock is on X3, pin A5, gray/black.
DRIVER door UN-lock is X3, pin B1, tan.
Trunk release is X1, pin 16, blue.
In the fuse block that is with the BCM's you can find a hot-at-all-times accessory feed that you can use for the DEI 528T.
INSTALLING AND HOOKING UP LOCK-SENSING SWITCH
1. Attach about 2-3 feet of the SOLID wire to the micro switch, soldering your connections and using heat shrink tubing to cover them.
2. Remove the driver's door panel (see How-To for LEDs in mirrors) and locate the lock rod.
3. Fashion a custom-sized piece of 3M Red double-stick tape (super sticky, permanent!), attach it to the switch but don't peel the tape from the second side.
4. Where the bend in the lock rod is at, just below the lock knob at the rear of the door, find a position on the flat of the painted metal door where the switch does not bind the operation of the lock rod, but where the rod will contact the lever of the switch and operate it when locked. You may need to bend the lever a little. I had to as well.
5. Use a marker or piece of masking tape to mark the edges of the switch once you find a non-binding position that works, then peel off the second side's liner and attach the switch to the door. Be careful! It's permanent once you attach it! This way you don't scratch the door or drill any holes that can allow rust to form.
6. Route the solid wires across the door toward the front of it, taking care not to allow them to hinder any movements or disconnects. Zip tie or use short pieces of solid wire to secure them to existing wire looms.
7. Using STRANDED wire, pull three wires through the door-to-body grommet and route them to the BCM's, leaving extra to make it easy to work on the ends. While you are pulling wires for this mod you may want to pull some extra wires for future needs. (Hey, don't say I didn't warn ya! )
8. Attach solid ends to stranded ends, keeping them identified as to which one is NO, Com, and NC on the switch. - Optionally, use a Radio Shack or similar connector that will allow you to unplug these 3 wires if you need to work on the door.
INSTALLING WINDOW MODULES
9. Install the DEI 530T modules per instructions. I installed a module in the driver's door to operate the rear windows, and one in the passenger's door to operate the passenger's window. (Driver's window operated via module inside the motor - unaccessible.) You can alternately install the modules in the kick panels, but they need to be fairly close to the front doors!
10. Do some experimentation with the DEI 530T to see which wire sends the windows up and which one sends them down. Mine uses orange to send them up and red/white to send them down.
HOOKING UP THE TIME-DELAY RELAY
11. Find the two wires at the BCM as indicated above: A5 and B1. Test to be sure one goes +12V when DRIVER door UN-lock is activated, and the other goes +12V when locked. Don't cut them, but tap into them with a wire on each, about 1-2 feet long. Solder and tape the connections. Attach those two wires to the SPST relay coil. This will cause it to be energized no matter if the doors are locked or the driver's door is unlocked, sending the required signal to the 528T.
12. Decide which type of trigger input you'll use (pos. or neg.) and cut/don't cut the blue loop on the 528T accordingly.
13. Wire the Com on the SPST relay to your type of trigger, either +12V or ground.
14. Wire the NO to the trigger wire on the 528T.
15. Find the trunk release wire on the BCM per above, X1, 16, blue. Test it by popping the trunk release by the remote or by the door switch. When certain, cut this wire and solder about 1 foot of wire to each end. Use heat shrink to cover the connections.
16. Attach the trunk release signal (from the BCM) to the 528T's Com of the output relay.
17. Attach the trunk release wire that goes TO the trunk to the NC output of the 528T's relay.
18. Attach the NO of the 528T's output relay to the Com of the switch you mounted in the driver's door.
19. Test the system as installed thus far.
19a. Hook up a test light or VOM or beeper (your choice, but make sure it's low amperage!) to each of the two remaining wires on the driver's door switch so that they need a +12V to turn them on. This will be supplied by the trunk release signal in the next steps.
19b. Adjust the 528T timer to about the middle of the range. This allows it to stay in the latched mode for about 30 seconds or more.
19c. Press door lock and then trunk release (on the remote or the driver's door). One indicator should activate (see 19a) for as long as you press the trunk release button. Press trunk release again. Same indicator should activate. Mark this as the "window up" signal for the 530T modules.
19d. Allow the 528T to time out, or adjust the timer so it releases.
19e. Press door unlock ONCE and then trunk release, but do it on the remote only for now. The other indicator should activate. Press trunk release again. Same indicator should activate. Mark this as THE "window down" signal for the 530T modules.
20. On each of the "window up" and "window down" wires identified in step 19 add a second wire. One of each will go to each module to signal it to send the windows up or down.
21. Route and attach these wires to the 530T modules.
22. Test system.
23. Woo hoo! Now you gots what I gots!