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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I plan on putting this on my 03 very soon. I've already got the parts needed thanks to a post DrivenDaily posted on here. Just trying to figure out which input on the 530T to put the trunk circuit on. Is it the ground-when-armed wire? I also need the connections for the 528T.

How is that "How-To" coming along Driven? =)
HOW-TO: Written version

I soldered all my connections, including any accessory plugs that I installed, even though they come with crimp connectors. Solid connections with no real chance to corrode!

Parts (all 12V unless otherwise noted)
3M double-stick tape (very small piece!) - I used scrap from my talking back-up system
Relay, SPST
Micro switch, SPDT - NO=Normally Open, Com=Common, NC=Normally Closed
Wire, stranded, 18-24 ga.
Wire, solid, 18-24 ga.
DEI 528T Time-delay relay
DEI 530T Window up/down module (2 required)
Solder, rosin-core
Optional: 3-wire connector plug


Under the front right console you will find 3 BCM's. On them you will find J1, J2, and J3. On the schematics the connectors are labeled X1, X2, and X3. Follow the link below to access the schematics I used:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2ynxjuubb6lr717/08_chevy_malibu_complete.pdf?dl=0

In figure 58 the BCM signals you need are at the top.

All-door lock is on X3, pin A5, gray/black.
DRIVER door UN-lock is X3, pin B1, tan.
Trunk release is X1, pin 16, blue.

In the fuse block that is with the BCM's you can find a hot-at-all-times accessory feed that you can use for the DEI 528T.




INSTALLING AND HOOKING UP LOCK-SENSING SWITCH

1. Attach about 2-3 feet of the SOLID wire to the micro switch, soldering your connections and using heat shrink tubing to cover them.

2. Remove the driver's door panel (see How-To for LEDs in mirrors) and locate the lock rod.

3. Fashion a custom-sized piece of 3M Red double-stick tape (super sticky, permanent!), attach it to the switch but don't peel the tape from the second side.

4. Where the bend in the lock rod is at, just below the lock knob at the rear of the door, find a position on the flat of the painted metal door where the switch does not bind the operation of the lock rod, but where the rod will contact the lever of the switch and operate it when locked. You may need to bend the lever a little. I had to as well.

5. Use a marker or piece of masking tape to mark the edges of the switch once you find a non-binding position that works, then peel off the second side's liner and attach the switch to the door. Be careful! It's permanent once you attach it! This way you don't scratch the door or drill any holes that can allow rust to form.

6. Route the solid wires across the door toward the front of it, taking care not to allow them to hinder any movements or disconnects. Zip tie or use short pieces of solid wire to secure them to existing wire looms.

7. Using STRANDED wire, pull three wires through the door-to-body grommet and route them to the BCM's, leaving extra to make it easy to work on the ends. While you are pulling wires for this mod you may want to pull some extra wires for future needs. (Hey, don't say I didn't warn ya! ;))

8. Attach solid ends to stranded ends, keeping them identified as to which one is NO, Com, and NC on the switch. - Optionally, use a Radio Shack or similar connector that will allow you to unplug these 3 wires if you need to work on the door.



INSTALLING WINDOW MODULES

9. Install the DEI 530T modules per instructions. I installed a module in the driver's door to operate the rear windows, and one in the passenger's door to operate the passenger's window. (Driver's window operated via module inside the motor - unaccessible.) You can alternately install the modules in the kick panels, but they need to be fairly close to the front doors!

10. Do some experimentation with the DEI 530T to see which wire sends the windows up and which one sends them down. Mine uses orange to send them up and red/white to send them down.



HOOKING UP THE TIME-DELAY RELAY

11. Find the two wires at the BCM as indicated above: A5 and B1. Test to be sure one goes +12V when DRIVER door UN-lock is activated, and the other goes +12V when locked. Don't cut them, but tap into them with a wire on each, about 1-2 feet long. Solder and tape the connections. Attach those two wires to the SPST relay coil. This will cause it to be energized no matter if the doors are locked or the driver's door is unlocked, sending the required signal to the 528T.

12. Decide which type of trigger input you'll use (pos. or neg.) and cut/don't cut the blue loop on the 528T accordingly.

13. Wire the Com on the SPST relay to your type of trigger, either +12V or ground.

14. Wire the NO to the trigger wire on the 528T.

15. Find the trunk release wire on the BCM per above, X1, 16, blue. Test it by popping the trunk release by the remote or by the door switch. When certain, cut this wire and solder about 1 foot of wire to each end. Use heat shrink to cover the connections.

16. Attach the trunk release signal (from the BCM) to the 528T's Com of the output relay.

17. Attach the trunk release wire that goes TO the trunk to the NC output of the 528T's relay.

18. Attach the NO of the 528T's output relay to the Com of the switch you mounted in the driver's door.

19. Test the system as installed thus far.
19a. Hook up a test light or VOM or beeper (your choice, but make sure it's low amperage!) to each of the two remaining wires on the driver's door switch so that they need a +12V to turn them on. This will be supplied by the trunk release signal in the next steps.
19b. Adjust the 528T timer to about the middle of the range. This allows it to stay in the latched mode for about 30 seconds or more.
19c. Press door lock and then trunk release (on the remote or the driver's door). One indicator should activate (see 19a) for as long as you press the trunk release button. Press trunk release again. Same indicator should activate. Mark this as the "window up" signal for the 530T modules.
19d. Allow the 528T to time out, or adjust the timer so it releases.
19e. Press door unlock ONCE and then trunk release, but do it on the remote only for now. The other indicator should activate. Press trunk release again. Same indicator should activate. Mark this as THE "window down" signal for the 530T modules.

20. On each of the "window up" and "window down" wires identified in step 19 add a second wire. One of each will go to each module to signal it to send the windows up or down.

21. Route and attach these wires to the 530T modules.

22. Test system.

23. Woo hoo! Now you gots what I gots! :D :D :D
 

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Re: Rolling down windows with remote transmitter?

Great write-up DrivenDaily!

There is alot of stuff in there that makes me think its a whole nother language......LOL. But it does make sense and very detailed as well. Now to do it.............
 

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Re: How-To: Rolling down windows with remote transmitter

OK. MalibuForum newb here. Found a link to this how-to over on KappaPerformance where some of us are just starting to use the 530T in our Solstices/Skys... I'm trying to figure out what you added on here, but it's not real clear... added remote down functionality with a fob button combo (including the trunk)? Did you also add auto-down on locking?

Thanks for clearing this up
Matt
 

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Re: How-To: Rolling down windows with remote transmitter

OK. MalibuForum newb here. Found a link to this how-to over on KappaPerformance where some of us are just starting to use the 530T in our Solstices/Skys... I'm trying to figure out what you added on here, but it's not real clear... added remote down functionality with a fob button combo (including the trunk)? Did you also add auto-down on locking?

Thanks for clearing this up
Matt
Welcome!

He added the ability to lower (or raise IIRC) all the windows on his Malibu from the OEM fob. DrivenDaily is great with all of those components and is very creative on how he has managed to do those things. Check in and wait from a reply from him for more details, hope mine can hold you over til then.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Re: How-To: Rolling down windows with remote transmitter

Both of you are right on track!

With this mod I can roll 3 of my windows up or down with the factory remote. The driver's window is still using the factory device, and it's mounted inside the motor housing. The screws to open it are a Torx-style but they have only 5 points instead of 6.

The mod is to the actual car, not the remotes. So even though I cut the wire to the trunk I can remove this mod and restore normal operation with one splice.

By adding the time-delay device I'm able to re-purpose the lock/unlock signal so that the trunk release will energize a circuit of my choice, and I chose to roll the windows up or down. I have my delay set at ~5 seconds so that when I park my car I can still open the trunk in a reasonable amount of time.

An alternative to rewiring the car would be to use an aftermarket RKE. They have extra channels. On my old car I had a two-way remote with 5 buttons and I repurposed the trunk release on that one as well. Since it was not the factory remote it was a discrete channel. I still added the lock sensing switch to keep from having to use 2 channels so that part has been re-engineered into this mod.

If I knew of a way to capture a signal from the remote where all you had to do was hold the lock or unlock down for 4 seconds then I wouldn't have had to cut the trunk wire or add in the delay. Of course, after saying that, I just thought, "How about using a second press of the same lock/unlock button?" Dang! I gotta see about doing that! And wouldn't you know it - I have my car programmed to need a second unlock to unlock all doors, so I'd have to change that over to a single press, but that's easy!
 

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Re: How-To: Rolling down windows with remote transmitter

Following the instructions for the trunk bypass circuit, I came up with this schematic. I am just guessing for now at which wire on the micro switch is up or down and I plan on using a ground type trigger on the 528T.

Driven, could you please verify? Thanks for all your help! I can't wait to get this mod installed some time this week. :D

I plan on taking pictures of everything as I go along for anyone out there with a 97 - 03.

 

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Re: How-To: Rolling down windows with remote transmitter

Great job Daily but do you have a how to or car you do a how to on just adding auto up and down to all the windows from the switches like the driver window has? Not really interested in the remote controlling just the switches in the drivers door :) Also where is the auto open and close sunroof from the switch :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Re: How-To: Rolling down windows with remote transmitter

Following the instructions for the trunk bypass circuit, I came up with this schematic. I am just guessing for now at which wire on the micro switch is up or down and I plan on using a ground type trigger on the 528T.

Driven, could you please verify? Thanks for all your help! I can't wait to get this mod installed some time this week. :D

I plan on taking pictures of everything as I go along for anyone out there with a 97 - 03.
That's better than if I'd've drawn it! Yes, that looks exactly correct!

Just to be sure, I'm gonna open mine up this Saturday and check the wiring just to be sure I didn't leave anything out. I did the How-To from old notes and I'm not sure I didn't have to change or add something, like another relay, while I was testing it for proper operation. But as I've written it your drawing is perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Re: How-To: Rolling down windows with remote transmitter

Great job Daily but do you have a how to or car you do a how to on just adding auto up and down to all the windows from the switches like the driver window has? Not really interested in the remote controlling just the switches in the drivers door :) Also where is the auto open and close sunroof from the switch :)
Yes.

For the express sunroof, which I haven't done to mine (yet!), DEI has a module for that.

For the express up/down, buy and install the DEI 530T per the instructions. When I did mine I found out that I had the option of making each switch have the express function, or just the driver's door panel. I installed two modules, one for both rear windows and one for the front passenger. I wired the rear windows so that they don't have express from the rear switches, but I can express them from the driver's panel. The front passenger has express from their switch and from the driver's panel.

Remember, the driver's window has factory express, and since it's within the motor assembly itself, I couldn't access the motor wires to hook them up to the DEI. If you find a way I'd be obliged if you'd share it!
 

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Re: How-To: Rolling down windows with remote transmitter

I am going to be doing this possibly once I get a new Malibu. Working on having those damn rattles fixed in the side air bags that seem to only be on my car. They have tired replacing them twice now and tried to monkey snot everything in place but still it rattles like its falling apart. Going to threaten them with the lemon law and see if anything gets done this time. When I bring it in to replace a panel they broke I am going to let them know verbally that I am going to be filing a lemon law claim and see if they get a response out of GM. If nothing happens and they just try to continue to throw parts at it I am going to file the claim and get a new car ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Re: How-To: Rolling down windows with remote transmitter

Wow, I hope you get what you want, no matter which way it works out!

And if you don't end up with another 'Bu the DEI will still work on another vehicle.
 

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Re: How-To: Rolling down windows with remote transmitter

OK, I'm getting back to this. I like it, but not a huge fan of the micro-switch... Seems like a mechanical actuation that would be easy to not postion correctly (and I'm not sure I can with all the sound deadening I've put in the doors) and seems somewhat redundant to the electical signals that already exist. I'm going to see if I can figure out how to rewire this without the microswitch. Will check back in if I can figure it out.

Matt
 

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Re: How-To: Rolling down windows with remote transmitter

Thats cool. Good write up.
 

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Re: How-To: Rolling down windows with remote transmitter

OK, I'm getting back to this. I like it, but not a huge fan of the micro-switch... Seems like a mechanical actuation that would be easy to not postion correctly (and I'm not sure I can with all the sound deadening I've put in the doors) and seems somewhat redundant to the electical signals that already exist. I'm going to see if I can figure out how to rewire this without the microswitch. Will check back in if I can figure it out.

Matt
OK. I thin I figured this out. I just replaced the microswitch with a latching relay.



I think this should work, but I've actually decided to go a different direction:


  • [li]Make the windows automatically go all the way up when the system is armed[/li]
    [li]Remote venting of the windows with the system armed[/li]
    [li]Remote drop the windows after disarming the system[/li]
I'll check back in once I figure out how to hook this up.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Re: How-To: Rolling down windows with remote transmitter

LiquidPT,

Glad to see you are looking into this! I just got back from a week away. Only took 2000 miles to do it! ;)

I like the idea you have of a latching relay. I am not sure it'll work, though. The door locks rest at ground potential on both wires until a signal is present to either lock or unlock. When it's locked then one leg will go to +12V, and when unlocked the other leg will go to +12V. The reason I think it might not work is the number of signals. If I press lock once all of the doors will lock and if I press it twice the horn honks and the anti-theft becomes active immediately instead of waiting 30 seconds. When unlocking, 1 press opens the driver's door, and 2 open all the rest.

With a latching relay, does the signal act like a flip-flop? If so, then will 2 presses of lock or unlock cause it to latch one way and then the other? If not, then is it basically polarized, so that pressing lock just keeps pushing it one way, but pressing unlock keeps pressing it the other way? (That would be perfect!)

I've been planning to add this feature to my '11 since installing the modules but I don't want to use the trunk signal anymore. My plan is to use the signal to the passenger doors. Since one press locks all and 2 sets the anti-theft, I plan to use the second press to roll the windows up. And since it takes 2 presses to unlock the passenger doors I'll use a 3rd press to roll them down.

My new plan (which I'll post once installed and working) is to use a common relay across the lock signals (again, to the passenger side only), and have its output trigger the timed relay. Then I'll have 2 more common relays across the lock signals, but each one will have a diode to latch only on lock or unlock. When the timer energizes it will allow a ground or positive signal (TBD) to appear at both relays but only one will energize, sending the correct signal to the modules for roll up/down.

What do you think of that change/update?
 

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Re: How-To: Rolling down windows with remote transmitter

LiquidPT,

Glad to see you are looking into this! I just got back from a week away. Only took 2000 miles to do it! ;)

I like the idea you have of a latching relay. I am not sure it'll work, though. The door locks rest at ground potential on both wires until a signal is present to either lock or unlock. When it's locked then one leg will go to +12V, and when unlocked the other leg will go to +12V. The reason I think it might not work is the number of signals. If I press lock once all of the doors will lock and if I press it twice the horn honks and the anti-theft becomes active immediately instead of waiting 30 seconds. When unlocking, 1 press opens the driver's door, and 2 open all the rest.

With a latching relay, does the signal act like a flip-flop? If so, then will 2 presses of lock or unlock cause it to latch one way and then the other? If not, then is it basically polarized, so that pressing lock just keeps pushing it one way, but pressing unlock keeps pressing it the other way? (That would be perfect!)

I've been planning to add this feature to my '11 since installing the modules but I don't want to use the trunk signal anymore. My plan is to use the signal to the passenger doors. Since one press locks all and 2 sets the anti-theft, I plan to use the second press to roll the windows up. And since it takes 2 presses to unlock the passenger doors I'll use a 3rd press to roll them down.

My new plan (which I'll post once installed and working) is to use a common relay across the lock signals (again, to the passenger side only), and have its output trigger the timed relay. Then I'll have 2 more common relays across the lock signals, but each one will have a diode to latch only on lock or unlock. When the timer energizes it will allow a ground or positive signal (TBD) to appear at both relays but only one will energize, sending the correct signal to the modules for roll up/down.

What do you think of that change/update?
Ah, good point. I borrowed the latching relay idea from another Kappa Performance member, TomatoSoup. His schematic included a diagram of how the latching relay works, which I forgot to include. You're right, I wouldn't want to try to rely on it if it was just a flip-flop. It is, infact, the polarized setup... Doesn't matter how many times you lock or unlock (which is why I thought it a good replacement for the micro switch).

I haven't had a chance to work on my updated schematic, and I'll take a look at your new ideas when I do...

Matt
 

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is it possible for someone to do a picture add to this for each step as they do it..? pictures makes me a lil more confident on doin somethin like this! lol..
 

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So from what I read im getting the notion that you are using your stock key fob to control your cars remote start, trunk release, windows up/down excluding the drivers window, and the lock/unlock. Have any of you tried making this work with a aftermarket fob, I mean I know you can use anything but I mean a custom fob.

And Driven, about how much do you think I would be looking at cost and time wise for this setup? I have a 05 malibu with no remote start, just the stock fob. lock/unlock,trunk release/and alarm.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So from what I read im getting the notion that you are using your stock key fob to control your cars remote start, trunk release, windows up/down excluding the drivers window, and the lock/unlock. Have any of you tried making this work with a aftermarket fob, I mean I know you can use anything but I mean a custom fob.

And Driven, about how much do you think I would be looking at cost and time wise for this setup? I have a 05 malibu with no remote start, just the stock fob. lock/unlock,trunk release/and alarm.
This How-To is not actually using the key fob but the locks themselves. It was written while I owned my '09. Now that I have an '11 I've wired it differently and didn't have to cut the trunk wire or install a separate switch to know when the doors were locked or unlocked.

I designed and built a dinosaur of a circuit that uses relays and a purchased timer (the same one from this How-To) to see the passenger door lock/unlock pulses, then wait 8 seconds to see another during a 25-30 second period and roll the windows up/down depending on the lock/unlock pulse. I can do it with the lock switches on the doors as well.

The cost is the timer and 8 relays, plus wire and a few cheap diodes. Unfortunately I don't have a schematic I can share although I wired it from a drawing I made. One of these days I'm gonna redesign it to be completely electronic but for now it works. Or I might abandon it in favor of installing an aftermarket 2-way remote start that has extra channels built into it to activate accessory circuits, such as my express windows. That's how I want to go.
 

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Have you ever thought about having a Android program made for your phone so you could use that instead of the key fob? Very much like the Viper security systems.
 
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