@avxkim I've finally gotten around to doing it! I have a lot of thoughts and it took quite a bit of work and figuring out how to do certain things with it, so this post may be a bit long!
Firstly, it took a bit to tear down the car enough to access everything I needed to, as seen here. (that smaller red bar above the radiator is removed for a bit more access behind the rad to remove the stock IC piping. I didn't remove my intake, but I recommend doing so for a better reach to the bottom of the turbo to remove the piping there. The metal clasps that hold the stock IC piping in are a pain to remove, especially by the throttle body.
This is with just the new IC put in. To get everything to fit you'll need to shave off excess plastic from the AC shroud to have it slide back enough to fit the new IC, there isn't a lot of space behind the crash bar. Even with that, the AC piping is incredibly stiff, please be careful with that, and you'll need to be comfortable with the IC digging into the AC a bit. I also cut that air snorkel on the top right so I could cut plastic where I needed to on the AC shroud as you can see.
![Car Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive tail & brake light Hood]()
So taking off the stock shutters isn't an option, it'll cause a CEL and so you'll need to do a bit more modifiying. Removing the extra plastic housing so you have the shutters themselves and the sensor that sits in the middle, I basically just shoved it above the mounts, used some zipties to secure it (it should fit pretty snug anyways) and an extra zip tie holding the sensor to the vertical metal bracket above the crash bar to face forward so it still functions properly. There's zip ties holding the shutters from above and routes the wiring to the right where the connector sits.
You'll also have to drill and set screw holes to fasten the IC mount to the crash bar.
Dave (who supplied the parts for this) had mostly everything right, but I did have to modify where some connectors and pieces went for better fitment. The "hot" side of the piping wasn't the right length and I needed to stop at Home Depot to get a rubber sewer joint to make the final turn I had issues with as seen above. This shouldn't be an issue on new orders, as he's fixed the length and changed that silicone connector into a right angle.
I took off the main plastic underside cover since it was really difficult to put the front bumper back on myself, but that is partially due to the harsh angle of the "hot" side piping and how low I mounted the IC so the crashbar wasn't blocking so much air and the IC didn't dig into the AC condenser so much.
Here's a top down view of the engine bay, like I said earlier, getting access near the TB is a pain and requires some planning on how the metal clasps are placed so you can tighten them when you're finished. Getting the stock ones out are also difficult and may need special tools if your arms are short!
Overall, took me about 16 hours end to end, but that was due to a ton of troubleshooting and planning on my end, a lot of plastic cutting, etc. Please feel free to ask any questions you have, and I'll let you all know what ZZP thinks when they build the engine and put the larger turbo on and see how it handles it!
