[Bradford2185]

Recently I had my a/c compressor, dryer, and orfis tube replaced. In turn that fixed my fuel, temp. gauges, warning lights, and cooling fan. Now onto the problem. On Sept. 2nd I changed my lower idler pully and serpentine belt. To do this I had to move the C/C mod., and evap tube. I put everything back with no problems. Now between 0-15 seconds of starting the entire gauge cluster will fail, and the car will sputter. If it doesn't stall out it will self correct and run normal. The only other time this will occur is RANDOMLY while driving. Not while accelerating, not stoping, not over bumps, just driving.

The only thing I have done was pulled the battery and turnned the key over as if I were attempting to start it and let it sit for about 15-20 mins.

I am at a dead end, please help!!!

 

[Starship]

When "the entire gauge cluster will fail," does it look like it loses power? Also, when this happens while driving, does it stall out?

Unless wire(s) got crushed or something, the problem may be the battery cable(s). See the starting circuit at http://cid-54465800aad91b49.office.live.com/self.aspx/pub/va132962.pdf. On the hot side, one cable goes to the starter and the other goes toward the ignition switch. This means it's possible that the starter may get enough current but not the rest of the vehicle through the ignition switch. On the ground side, one goes to the engine block and the other, vehicle chasis. I suggest cleaning and inspecting the battery posts and clamps. Also, there may be corrosion between the cable end and the clamp.

 

[DrivenDaily]

Also check your grounding straps. They are very important on computerized vehicles. Even where they are can cause issues. Some grounds are under separate bolts instead of stacked, even though they're right next to each other.

If any are compromised, clean and reattach or replace.

 

[Silver LTZ]

Also check your grounding straps. They are very important on computerized vehicles. Even where they are can cause issues. Some grounds are under separate bolts instead of stacked, even though they're right next to each other.

If any are compromised, clean and reattach or replace.

Good point, make sure they have little of no corrosion.

 

[Bradford2185]

When it does fail it flickers as if you were wiggling a ground or power line, and the engine studders to stay running. If I am not driving it will stall, but it did stall while driving last night.

 

[DrivenDaily]

Probably dies at low speeds because it doesn't have enough RPMs to keep turning before it gets power and starts running again.

You may have a faulty PCM or a bad connection (wire-to-terminal, terminal-to-terminal, or not snapped fully). There have been a few posts here where a simple unplug and re-plug with a wire repair fixed the issue, but I don't think it was causing an engine to die.

Hope you find it soon!

 

[Bradford2185]

Okay guys I have just spent the past 3 hours troubleshooting this issue. I have checked all of the major grounds coming from the batt. going to the two in front of the batt, the one to the block and the one to the starter(all tight and no corroshion). I pulled the possitive line going to the master fuse pannel under the hood and cleaned it. I pulled the dash apart wiggling and tugging on connections to the ignition, PCM, radio, and anything else in sight, and I am still stuck with an epaleptic Malibu. I was talking to someone and he said sometimes when the alternator is starting to go bad it can sometimes send a faulty signal and interupt the power to the vehicle. Is it possible?

 

[Bradford2185]

OH!!! and it ONLY does this when the engine is running. I have left the car on without starting the the engine and it has no problem. So I am guessing it has to have something to do with the operation of the engine.

 

[Starship]

Okay, then, I guess it's time to start disconnecting and see if you can isolate the culprit. See the following wiring diagrams:

Charging Circuit
Power Distribution, 1 of 2
Power Distribution, 2 of 2
Ground Distribution, 1 of 2
Ground Distribution, 2 of 2

It could indeed be an internal short in the alternator which should be easy to prove by disconnecting it.