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Hi everyone, I have a 2015 LT1. I’d like help with a couple of issues that I ran into when trying to service my brakes today.

1. I have done the brakes on my cars for over a decade and I’ve had many different makers and models, but I’ve never had this issue. I am replacing the rear pads and rotors. I could not push the caliper piston back into the caliper. I know it sounds like a very basic step and it usually is. Typically, I use a large C-clamp and the old pad and squeeze the c-clamp to push the piston back. Normally this goes very smoothly. But this piston would not budge; so much so that my cheap harbor freight c-clamp snapped in 2 like a tea biscuit. What am I missing? I did open the cap on the brake fluid reservoir, so that’s not it. Did I forget a key step or do you think it’s seized up?

2. I also have the ABS light on and stabili-trac light on. I had the guy at the auto parts store scan the code and it came up as the left rear ABS sensor. I figured it would be pretty simple. However, accessing the point at which the lead for the sensor plugs into is pretty difficult. Are there tips or tricks on how to get access to that plug in and to disconnect the plug at the end of the lead? I couldn’t get the plug to release from the terminal it plugs in to.

Any advice you have on these issues is greatly appreciated.

Best
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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Rear pistons screw in.
 

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Rear pistons screw in.
Thank you. I was able to find that too. I feel kind of dumb for not looking into that before.

From the additional reading I did online, the ABS sensor issue is more likely the ring in the wheel hub rather than the sensor. Would you gut agree with that?
 

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Could be both or a connection issue. ABS codes help point the way on that. Sensor open, shorted, etc. . Codes usually define that, another reason to add a good code reader to your toolbox.
Spray the connector with WD or some other penetrant. They can be a pain to unlock sometimes also.
 

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From the additional reading I did online, the ABS sensor issue is more likely the ring in the wheel hub rather than the sensor. Would you gut agree with that?
I dont remember the code but I had that problem with the broken ring. Replaced the wheel bearing and instantly got my ABS, TC, and stability control back. If you do your own work have fun with that wheel bearing, it was a Doosey to get out. I had to sand out the hole to get the new one in. Maybe someone that knows more about metal can explain what happens when aluminum and steel get to know each other. They become friends at your expense
 

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Hi everyone, I have a 2015 LT1. I’d like help with a couple of issues that I ran into when trying to service my brakes today.

1. I have done the brakes on my cars for over a decade and I’ve had many different makers and models, but I’ve never had this issue. I am replacing the rear pads and rotors. I could not push the caliper piston back into the caliper. I know it sounds like a very basic step and it usually is. Typically, I use a large C-clamp and the old pad and squeeze the c-clamp to push the piston back. Normally this goes very smoothly. But this piston would not budge; so much so that my cheap harbor freight c-clamp snapped in 2 like a tea biscuit. What am I missing? I did open the cap on the brake fluid reservoir, so that’s not it. Did I forget a key step or do you think it’s seized up?

2. I also have the ABS light on and stabili-trac light on. I had the guy at the auto parts store scan the code and it came up as the left rear ABS sensor. I figured it would be pretty simple. However, accessing the point at which the lead for the sensor plugs into is pretty difficult. Are there tips or tricks on how to get access to that plug in and to disconnect the plug at the end of the lead? I couldn’t get the plug to release from the terminal it plugs in to.

Any advice you have on these issues is greatly appreciated.

Best
I had all these lights come on with my 2010 HHR. I got rid of it a few months ago but had purchased a 2014 Chevy Malibu with low mileage in August through a private party sale. The car had a "Service StabliTrak" warning that came up on the dash. The seller was waiting on a wheel bearing hub to come in and change it before I took possession on the vehicle.

After digging around and finding a YouTube video, I found out what the issue was with my HHR and that this guy saved me ~$500 - $1K in service costs!! I would probably have done it myself or with my dad but God bless this guy that he wasn't going to sell it to me without fixing it!!

Anyways, here is a link to the YouTube video and how to fix the wheel bearing hub.

At mark ~1:00 he talks about needing to visit the dealer or an ASE certified mechanic that has the equipment to diagnose the powertrain system. This will let you know what wheel bearing to replace.
At mark ~2:35 he states that the reluctor (sp?) ring on the wheel bearing is most likely the culprit.

Good Luck!!
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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Thanks for sharing that info.

With a BlueDriver OBD scanner, I can pull the codes for all 4 families (B, C, P, and U) and get info on the specific item. No need for a visit to the dealer and pay more than the $100 for the scanner. Plus I can use it anywhere, on any car, at any time convenient to me.

That would save a few more dollars, and who doesn't like that?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for sharing that info.

With a BlueDriver OBD scanner, I can pull the codes for all 4 families (B, C, P, and U) and get info on the specific item. No need for a visit to the dealer and pay more than the $100 for the scanner. Plus I can use it anywhere, on any car, at any time convenient to me.

That would save a few more dollars, and who doesn't like that?
I’m mostly concerned with how difficult it’s going to be to get this wheel bearing out...
 

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I did the front ones on my 2011 a couple years ago. As I recall, they came out easily for me, and the new ones went in easily as well.

YMMV
 

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I can swap out Malibu front wheel hubs in 45 min. . It's all about having a good tool selection with power assist.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
We'll see how it goes. The part is supposed to arrive tomorrow and I'll try installing in on Friday...I do have access to air tools.
 

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I used needle nose to screw caliper in. Hubs came off after I hit drive shaft with mallet to push it in. Leave nut on so you don’t damage threads. You’ll need 35 mm socket to pull nut. Easy job once you have right tool.
 

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Nice part with GM is you can change hubs without having to separate ball joints like I've had to do on Fords.
Pushing in axle will just give enough clearance to access hub bolts.
 

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We'll see how it goes. The part is supposed to arrive tomorrow and I'll try installing in on Friday...I do have access to air tools.
I've been able to rent the hub puller tool and slide hammer from Autozone. Made removal super easy. Also had to wire brush the hub slot clean and put a board over the new hub while hammering it in to the right location.

Also- have some thread locker on hand. Can't remember where it's necessary, but I recall having to buy some day of work.
 

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I've been able to rent the hub puller tool and slide hammer from Autozone. Made removal super easy. Also had to wire brush the hub slot clean and put a board over the new hub while hammering it in to the right location.

Also- have some thread locker on hand. Can't remember where it's necessary, but I recall having to buy some day of work.
Hub should slide right into the spindle. If it's tight then spindle hole needs more cleaning out of the corrosion. Wire brush in a drill does a fast and easy job.
I've never used a puller, big azz hammer gets them out.
 

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Hub should slide right into the spindle. If it's tight then spindle hole needs more cleaning out of the corrosion. Wire brush in a drill does a fast and easy job.
I've never used a puller, big azz hammer gets them out.
Yes! Sorry, thought we were talking about the rear. No spindle there.

I did my right rear at about 85k (last year) nd coincidentally my left rear (parts arrived yesterday.) At about 95k. Seems silly to replace the whole hub for a cheap magnetic ring but that's been the issue!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Anyways, here is a link to the YouTube video and how to fix the wheel bearing hub.

At mark ~1:00 he talks about needing to visit the dealer or an ASE certified mechanic that has the equipment to diagnose the powertrain system. This will let you know what wheel bearing to replace.
At mark ~2:35 he states that the reluctor (sp?) ring on the wheel bearing is most likely the culprit.

Good Luck!!
I followed this video directly. One thing that is very important in this video is the guy shows what to remove and what to loosen in order to pivot the wheel bearing down. This makes is so much easier to access the three wheel bearing bolts. I tapped the bearing very lightly from the back and it popped right out. Most of the other videos on youtube about this fix, do not show this step. They show people removing the wheel bearing without pivoting it down. I don't think the average person would be able to access these bolts without the pivot. Anyway, new wheel bearing installed and the lights on the dash have gone away (for now).

If I had to do it again, it would go much faster since I have a better idea of what I'm doing now.
 
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