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2007 chevy Malibu
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
If you feel like you have the skills and/or the drive to DIY, then a subscription to All Data DIY dot com might be in order. You'll have access to wiring diagrams and how-to instructions.

If not, then it might be time to get a shop involved or see if there are any programs that might be able to help folks in need.
What would cause both no crank no start and fuel pump not to run at at the same time. ECM?
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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1. Fuses
2. Connectors
3. Wires - severed, chafed, damaged, rodent activity
4. Bad fuel pump
5. Clogged or obstructed fuel line
6. Signal from key to BCM
7. Bad fuse box and/or terminals/connections
8. Criminal actions yet undetected

These are in no particular order; just what I can think of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
1. Fuses
2. Connectors
3. Wires - severed, chafed, damaged, rodent activity
4. Bad fuel pump
5. Clogged or obstructed fuel line
6. Signal from key to BCM
7. Bad fuse box and/or terminals/connections
8. Criminal actions yet undetected

These are in no particular order; just what I can think of.
A bad fuel pump can cause a no crank?
 

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Is your anti-theft / security light on? Harness to the transmission selector damaged? Either one will cause a no crank.
 
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You have checked all three fuse boxes? Trunk/console/under-hood.
The under-hood fuse box contains some fusible links. Remove them, clean the ends and their contacts, re-install.
Remove and clean all contacts/connectors at the body control module, re-install these connectors, then remove them again and re-install a few more times. This action cleans/scrapes the pins. The connectors must be re-installed all the way or "latched" as the latch pulls the connector in all the way.
The body control module is located in the right lower side of the interior center console near the passengers feet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
You have checked all three fuse boxes? Trunk/console/under-hood.
The under-hood fuse box contains some fusible links. Remove them, clean the ends and their contacts, re-install.
Remove and clean all contacts/connectors at the body control module, re-install these connectors, then remove them again and re-install a few more times. This action cleans/scrapes the pins. The connectors must be re-installed all the way or "latched" as the latch pulls the connector in all the way.
The body control module is located in the right lower side of the interior center console near the passengers feet.
Yes I have checked all the fuses in all three locations but will go back through them and clean everything thank you for your in put
 

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Trans selector is on top of the trans right under where the shifter cable attaches. My thought is if harness is damaged computer thinks it's not in park or neutral.
Fuel pump should run for 2-3 sec. when key is turned to run.
 
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Ok as of now I rechecked all the fuses in all 3 places they all a per to be good. I tried to remove hardness from the neutral safety switch and could not get it off watched a video on it that shows taking a heat gun to it as it's sealed with silicone so I'll do that tomorrow. I took out the BCM and cleaned it and checked all points of contact on both the BCM and the hardness I out it back it and now anti-theft comes on and when I turn the key it starts flashing along with my overhead light also it keeps trying to lock the door as door keep clicking also a clicking sound is coming from BCM I'm not sure what went wrong or if I did something wrong what should I do. thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Disconnect the battery, touch together the neg and pos leads from the car for a few seconds. The battery is in no way part of this operation. Re-connect and try.
Ok that took everything back to where it was thank you for that. I still have no crank no start. I'm going to take a hit gun to the neutral safety switch and check it. I'll let you know how it goes. I slow at this and can't help it I was in hospital for 8 months 4 of them in a coma I coded 3 times (died) and had to learn how to walk all over again. And now I suffer from critical illness neuropathy that where I have damage to my nerves and muscle loss in my legs feet hands and arms I'm recovering from it and it takes me longer to do anything. I don't have the money to put my car in shop I have to do it on my own. My car is my only way to my Dr. Appointments so I need to get it going I appreciate your guys help with this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
The two 2amp fuses in the fuse box under passenger side of the car, one is run/crank one is ignition. Wiggle them, be sure they are good. Sometimes the socket they plug in to can corrode.
Ok I'll check them but something happen when I did a code check I hooked it up and it showed no codes so I did it again to be sure and the reader died out and now I have nothing lighting up on dash board other the the antithief light came on for 30 sec and went off. I just hooked cable back up to the nag and pos again to see if it resets.
 

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I don't have wiring diagrams for this car but it sounds like you have some major problem. Perhaps a fusible link has corroded/failed. I really don't know.
I can say that I had a 2006 Malibu and the fusible link in the under-hood fuse box became corroded and I lost almost all power to the car. Removing/cleaning and re-installing cured it all.
The link/fuse was at the rear of the box, passenger side, if I remember correctly. Held in my a couple of screws.
Unfortunately, you might need some professional help for this car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I don't have wiring diagrams for this car but it sounds like you have some major problem. Perhaps a fusible link has corroded/failed. I really don't know.
I can say that I had a 2006 Malibu and the fusible link in the under-hood fuse box became corroded and I lost almost all power to the car. Removing/cleaning and re-installing cured it all.
The link/fuse was at the rear of the box, passenger side, if I remember correctly. Held in my a couple of screws.
Unfortunately, you might need some professional help for this car.
Ok let me work on it and see what I can do I really appreciate your help sir I'll keep you posted
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I just notice something I hooked the the battery last night and checked the voltage it was at 12.58 and just now when I checked it it was at 7.23
First off let me wish everyone a Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours. I removed the horniness from the neutral safety switch and blow it out and now can't get it to plug back it thought might be a bent pin on the switch so went to take it off took off the two bolts and two lock ring but switch won't come out there looks like there's a white plastic ring holding it in place that won't come put can you help me with this.
 

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As per post #37, you appear to have a battery drain issue and or more bigger problems. This could prove difficult.
As for this neutral switch...I wouldn't remove any more hardware. You already have it electrically disconnected. If you can find a wiring diagram for this switch, you could jump the pins in the connector so that the computer believes the car in in park/neutral. The car should then start if everything else is okay.
WARNING: Be sure the car is truly in park/neutral before starting or you could have a run away car. Set parking brake - take precautions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
As per post #37, you appear to have a battery drain issue and or more bigger problems. This could prove difficult.
As for this neutral switch...I wouldn't remove any more hardware. You already have it electrically disconnected. If you can find a wiring diagram for this switch, you could jump the pins in the connector so that the computer believes the car in in park/neutral. The car should then start if everything else is okay.
WARNING: Be sure the car is truly in park/neutral before starting or you could have a run away car. Set parking brake - take precautions.
Ok I will see about jumping it and yes for sure I'll make sure it's in park with break set thank you I appreciate you help
 
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