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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here are the "Proof Of Concept" pics . I just need to connect the 3/8 hoses to there respective connections. But hey figuring out where I was going to install the can was a real head scratchier. I had to fabricate the bracket, used the end of a stainless steel hoop clamp. Just clamped it in my vise smacked it with a heavy hammer til it fit the location. Used a permanent maker to show where the holes needed to be drilled. Made SURE the bracket was bent to fit well, then pop riveted the bracket in place with some 3/16 inch aluminum rivets. If you want added security you can use a zip tie to strap the can to the mount bracket, but this is to show the proof of my concept, so you "CAN" if your paranoid. The one pic is of the Oil catch can that I ordered, hot link is where you can find it. I also ordered 3 lengths of 3/8 hose that were 5 foot in length from the same source. Bought 6 stainless steel hose clamps from local hardware store. Bought a pac of GOOD zip ties from Menards, UPC 32076 91987 GB brand by Gardner Bender, there rated at -40 degree C to 85 degree C with the harsh demands of the under hood environment in mind. So there it is where and how to install an Oil Catch Can in a 2015 2.5l Malibu!:nerd:

https://www.amazon.com/Sporacingrts-Compact-Baffled-3-Port-10-3mm/dp/B07JDPNMNH/ref=sr_1_222_sspa?hvadid=153706028857&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9017452&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1o3&hvqmt=e&hvrand=13716287068599906451&hvtargid=kwd-1081935381&keywords=oil+catch+can&qid=1553038873&s=gateway&sr=8-222-spons&tag=googhydr-20&psc=1
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The OCC can be lifted up to facilitate removal of the bottom of the can to pour out the collected liquid. I did not use the little ball valve that came with the OCC, figured it was not needed since I'll remove the can and spill out the gung.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'll use the zip ties to gather all 3 hoses into a bundle for final install, my hips were killing me!:frown:
 

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Sounds like a good project and pretty well planned out.

So your OCC has 2 inlets for the dual PCV on your car?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Yup, found it by looking at ALL that came up from search. :D

In a couple days I get some more pics that show the hoses connected to the PVC valves and the Air Chamber Box.;)
 

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Yup, found it by looking at ALL that came up from search. :D

In a couple days I get some more pics that show the hoses connected to the PVC valves and the Air Chamber Box.;)
Very nice! Looking forward to these pics. Are you doing this because your car burns oil? Mine goes through about a quart every thousand miles. Might be worn piston rings, who knows, but I was always curious how much it might be burning through the pcv system. I think I will have to do this. Inexpensive can too. Are you using the one with the valve? When would you turn the valve off?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I bought the car with 20K miles, it now has 29K miles. I started to read on this forum about the pitfalls of the GDI engines and thought that this can ought to be "standard equipment", so I wanted to install one. Early on I was put off by how little room there was in the engine bay. Then I just took the OCC with the hoses connected and physically tried to put it in the engine bay. I guess I was lucky there was room enough in the spot I found, the rest was fabricating the bracket, I love pop rivets so I used them to secure it in place. I WILL NOT USE the small ball valve that came the OCC. That would just make it more complicated, see you then would have to use a short length of tubing on it and then try to position a container in an already cramped compartment, no thanks! With my method of mounting you "can" just lift the assembly off the mounting bracket, unscrew the lower half and pour it into a waste container. Besides I would like to see the crap collected and wipe out the residue after dumping it into the waste container. So my set-up has several hidden benefits, mostly by luck! I am not sure how much oil my car goes through between changes, I'll see though. Seems like these modern engines employee "low tension rings" and it could be bad rings if the engine is consuming excessive oil. Or cheap pistons that have ring lands that distort and crack or just kill the rings. Or the cylinder bores are not perfectly round, a manufacturing defect. I've seen problems concerning oil consumption in my "last" sport bike, (I've ridden since 1977 when I served in the USAF and have owned 6 big engine bikes, 40 years man, in sport bike riding you wreck or you sell, I sold in 2017,) a 2008 Honda CBR 1000RR that were related to non-concentric cylinder bores, then again the cylinders had "nickel silicone carbide" treatment in place of iron cylinder sleeves, it was the basis for a class action lawsuit against Honda for those bikes with excessive oil consumption. I doubt that there exists such problems with the 2.5L engine. GM probably just used cheap rings! So I hope I've answered your questions, I hate it when there not answered! :nerd: >:)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Removal of that junction was easy and I think necessary because I wanted to use the 3 hose can. (One vacuum and 2 inputs, one from each PCV valve.) Yeah it really makes it pretty busy with 2 5/8 hoses and the 1 3/8 hose. But if the engineers felt there were reasons for the particular size on the PVC valves and the air plenum then who am I to disagree! I can take better pics to illustrate the hose routing to show that it is possible in the future or to convince you to do it the same way. Also I felt that I had to remove the plastic line assembly because the weight of the hoses connected to it might crack it anyway I felt. :nerd:
 
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Crazy Eric
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