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Hey, I have a 2016 Malibu with the 1.5 turbo with about 60k on it, whenever it starts to get below freezing the engine light turns on for P0299, which is engine under boost and the car lacks power, our local gm dealership has had the car in about 5 times and cannot fix it. I’m just wondering if anyone else has had this problem or if there’s something small that’s causing all these problems? Thanks
 

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Re: Po299 won’t go away

I hade the same code at 57000 miles on My 2.0 Turbo . now i'm getting an overboost code and the dealer cant seem to figure that out. I think the wastgate in the new turbo is bad.
 

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I have had the same code come up at 40K, 50K, 65K, well, really every since 45K. The dealership has always told me it was the gas throttle sensor, and of course it wasn’t till AFTER it was out of warranty they discovered what it was. It came back on again yesterday at 97732, so I take my car to a different place to get the code myself and low and behold it’s P0299. Of course the dealership will fix it if I pay out of pocket, but according to other readings, this is a power train issue. I thought that was covered till 100000 miles. So disappointed.
 

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P0299 + freezing temps as the OP of this thread reports indicates possible ice in the charge air cooler restricting airflow. Also need to clean and thaw turbo air pressure sensor and perform an oil change if excess moisture remains in the crankcase - fail to do that and you'll start all over. See bulletin 18-NA-069 here: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10174263-9999.pdf

Couple tips for those that might encounter this: the moisture you accumulate is internal - this isn't something from ice or snow buildup outside the intercooler. It is moisture vapor/humidity in the air that turns to water when cooled inside the charge air cooler/intercooler and duct. This water if it gathers in volume can turn to ice in very low temps. Ice then blocks the duct and causes reduced airflow. Under normal operation, the PCV and deflector setup removes vapors or routes them for combustion. If you are taking very short trips not allowing for water to vaporize, it can gather excessively and you get ice. A lot of VW and F150 owners have been dealing with this for over a decade. Only way around is to melt that ice and drain, or melt and heat up the engine enough to vaporize and remove. This explains why this is so rare just like the fuel in oil issue. Both caused primarily by extreme cold or very short trips which isn't a common driving pattern. PCV system also needs to be checked against partial clog.
 

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My 2017 has the same issue. CAC being replaced next monday but I was wondering what to do to prevent it in the future? North Dakota has some very long, icy roads. There is no "warmer climate". I can let the car heat up at start but I don't know if that affects it while running. Do the new CAC's have a de-icer or heater on them to prevent? Thanks
 

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@wworsham
As far as I know, all that can be done is warming the car to melt the ice. The built-in heater would be the engine or getting the car into a garage. I do not know if the replacement is a different design or if it is a basic replacement because something went wrong allowing ice to form. I have been aware of the bulletin for some time waiting for it to happen to mine as it gets pretty cold here in Michigan also. Aside from the few reports in this thread (unfortunately from members that don't enjoy followup) there aren't many reports to go on - the reports here have the code but no confirmation of the ice cause. The part is listed at $671 with prices around $420 online, pretty steep - hope this is warranty!
 

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Daughter's 18 LT just had this happen. P0299 code. Dealer said the same things indicated by Campb292 above, but implied that replacing the CAC may not prevent it from happening again--AND it's not under powertrain warranty. Great. They said they would take it off and try to drain it after warming up rather than replacing it as a first step.
 

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This is a design flaw. This will happen every time it gets below freezing and there is moisture in the air, not only when snowing. I live in North Dakota where temps often get to -20f in the winter. I have found the only way to keep this from happening is to let my 2016 Malibu warm up for about 15 minutes before going anywhere and let it idle for 15 or 20 minutes before turning it off when I arrive. This is my second winter with this car and I will be removing the bumper and grill this weekend to get something in front of the CAC to restrict the flow of air through the CAC. The problem is the radiator is right behind the CAC so you can't completely restrict the air, but I am hoping this will help. In my 16 Malibu, it happens when temps get lower than +20f. I do not have a heated garage, which would be really nice. I have learned that this is just something that I am going to have to live with until I trade this car off.

I would be really nice if someone would come up with a CAC bypass that will open when temps dip into the 20's. When outside temps are below freezing I do not see a need to cool the air anymore.
 

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@Steve Rodgers This is one I am surprised we don't see more of on the forum. There is a bulletin so you know it happens to a noticeable population of owners. Over the last 5 years there have been about a half dozen to dozen owners report it which puts it somewhere between rare and less common here. I would think if extreme cold temps just caused this habitually we would see hundreds of posts here considering close to half of the USA population lives where winters can get cold. I kept waiting for this to happen with my 2016 LT as I live in West Michigan which gets tons of snow and cold every winter. Never had the honor. Sorry you have to go through all that to prevent or reduce it from happening.
 

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This is a design flaw. This will happen every time it gets below freezing and there is moisture in the air, not only when snowing. I live in North Dakota where temps often get to -20f in the winter. I have found the only way to keep this from happening is to let my 2016 Malibu warm up for about 15 minutes before going anywhere and let it idle for 15 or 20 minutes before turning it off when I arrive. This is my second winter with this car and I will be removing the bumper and grill this weekend to get something in front of the CAC to restrict the flow of air through the CAC. The problem is the radiator is right behind the CAC so you can't completely restrict the air, but I am hoping this will help. In my 16 Malibu, it happens when temps get lower than +20f. I do not have a heated garage, which would be really nice. I have learned that this is just something that I am going to have to live with until I trade this car off.

I would be really nice if someone would come up with a CAC bypass that will open when temps dip into the 20's. When outside temps are below freezing I do not see a need to cool the air anymore.
Thank you for information. This happened to my daughter's car last night. I'm wondering if she can drive it? We have to travel at least 50 miles for mechanic work to be done. Was it helpful for you to put something in front of the CAC?
 

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Just had a similar experience with my 2016 Malibu with 109,000 miles. This is my first winter living in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula (from Central Ohio). The temperature got close to 0 yesterday and the check engine light came on when I started my car to leave work. I noticed a loss of power mostly just going up hills and accelerating from stops. Took it to the dealership today and they found the code and related it to Bulletin #18-NA-069. They explained the issue and that the cost to repair was $1200. It’s crazy that a design error leads to all of this. Have any of you had luck getting it fixed, or just kept as is? Given my Malibu’s mileage, I doubt I’ll get the new air charge cooler.
 

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Just had a similar experience with my 2016 Malibu with 109,000 miles. This is my first winter living in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula (from Central Ohio). The temperature got close to 0 yesterday and the check engine light came on when I started my car to leave work. I noticed a loss of power mostly just going up hills and accelerating from stops. Took it to the dealership today and they found the code and related it to Bulletin #18-NA-069. They explained the issue and that the cost to repair was $1200. It’s crazy that a design error leads to all of this. Have any of you had luck getting it fixed, or just kept as is? Given my Malibu’s mileage, I doubt I’ll get the new air charge cooler.
Do you park outside?

I'm impressed with the hardiness of your winter lifestyle in the UP. I live near Grand Rapids. I have a cabin/cottage northwest of Marquette near Big Bay. I get up there once or twice each winter to check on things and it's usually a wild adventure. My Malibu has never made the winter trip... no garage at the cabin so I think she'd die.
 
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Just had a similar experience with my 2016 Malibu with 109,000 miles. This is my first winter living in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula (from Central Ohio). The temperature got close to 0 yesterday and the check engine light came on when I started my car to leave work. I noticed a loss of power mostly just going up hills and accelerating from stops. Took it to the dealership today and they found the code and related it to Bulletin #18-NA-069. They explained the issue and that the cost to repair was $1200. It’s crazy that a design error leads to all of this. Have any of you had luck getting it fixed, or just kept as is? Given my Malibu’s mileage, I doubt I’ll get the new air charge cooler.
Yeah, that $1,200 fix is not a fix at all. Look at the quote, they are going to replace your CAC, which unless it completely filled with condensation and then froze causing it to crack, is not damaged, and is fully functional. Replacing the CAC will not fix the problem, it will just cost you a ton of cash and then you can have the same problem with the new CAC.

I live in Western North Dakota where temps are typically below 0f to -20f from December to February, this has not been the case this year, and it did not get below 0f until Monday. I have 88K miles on my 2016 Malibu. Monday evening, while driving home from the office the temp dropped to -14f, it was snowing (moisture in the air), and I felt it. Check engine light came on and then my car was shifting to maintain 70mph. Tuesday morning when I started my car to let it warm up for 20 minutes before leaving for work, the temp on the infotainment screen said -23. The CAC was so plugged with what I assume was ice that I could not get over 60mph without RPM's in excess of 4,000. I assume it just could not get any air. So I set the cruise at 55 and it got me to work (I have a 50 mile commute which is why I drive this car). I think at 55 the tachometer was right around 3,000. Now I installed a piece of cardboard, which I painted black, a couple of months ago and that seems to have helped until started getting cold (-10 or colder). Mind you I have been letting it warm up for 15 to 20 minutes each morning before leaving for the office (set a 9-minute timer and hit the start button a second time) and then once I get to the office I shut it off and then remote start it so it will sit and idle for 10 minutes after I arrive. I figure this is the best time to clear the condensation as the condensation has not frozen yet.

So what I did to get my car to start working again, after arriving at the office yesterday, I did not shut it off. I just let it sit and idle. It apparently shuts itself off after idling for so long, which I assume is 30 or 45 minutes. Then before leaving the office (by this time it had warmed up to -4) I let it idle for about 25 minutes or so and on my way home it was better but still lugging up hills. My son had a thing at the high school (another 30 miles from home) so I picked up my two younger boys from home, and we went to town. Upon arrival at the school, I again did not shut it off, it timed out again. When I got back into the car to head home, it had cleared all the crap out, so it ran fine, but again the temp had dropped to -22 so again when I got home I did not shut it off. This morning I let it warm up for about 30 minutes and it was not as good as last night, but I could at least maintain 70mph without shifting too much. It is supposed to warm up for the next few days again so hopefully it will completely come out of it again before it gets cold again.

My business partner's son is a mechanical engineer so I am working with him to 3D print me a thing to attach to the grill so it does not look like I have a piece of black cardboard zip-tied to my grill.
 

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Do you park outside?

I'm impressed with the hardiness of your winter lifestyle in the UP. I live near Grand Rapids. I have a cabin/cottage northwest of Marquette near Big Bay. I usually get up there once a winter to check on things and it's usually a wild adventure. My Malibu has never made the winter trip... no garage at the cabin so I think she'd die.
Thanks, I think I’ll stick to saving my money! I unfortunately do park outside, but hopefully will have a garage in the next year or two! (And perhaps a truck as well).
It’s amazing how much lake effect comes off of Superior, especially in those areas. It’s been a fortunate winter so far and not as much snow. I’m close to Saint Ignace, so we don’t get quite the snow like the places near Superior. Although if I drive 20 minutes north I run into the snow belt. I went to Calvin in Grand Rapids, and often miss all that’s offered in that area. But the U.P. Is beautiful and I’ve enjoyed it so far up here!
 

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Yeah, that $1,200 fix is not a fix at all. Look at the quote, they are going to replace your CAC, which unless it completely filled with condensation and then froze causing it to crack, is not damaged, and is fully functional. Replacing the CAC will not fix the problem, it will just cost you a ton of cash and then you can have the same problem with the new CAC.

I live in Western North Dakota where temps are typically below 0f to -20f from December to February, this has not been the case this year, and it did not get below 0f until Monday. I have 88K miles on my 2016 Malibu. Monday evening, while driving home from the office the temp dropped to -14f, it was snowing (moisture in the air), and I felt it. Check engine light came on and then my car was shifting to maintain 70mph. Tuesday morning when I started my car to let it warm up for 20 minutes before leaving for work, the temp on the infotainment screen said -23. The CAC was so plugged with what I assume was ice that I could not get over 60mph without RPM's in excess of 4,000. I assume it just could not get any air. So I set the cruise at 55 and it got me to work (I have a 50 mile commute which is why I drive this car). I think at 55 the tachometer was right around 3,000. Now I installed a piece of cardboard, which I painted black, a couple of months ago and that seems to have helped until started getting cold (-10 or colder). Mind you I have been letting it warm up for 15 to 20 minutes each morning before leaving for the office (set a 9-minute timer and hit the start button a second time) and then once I get to the office I shut it off and then remote start it so it will sit and idle for 10 minutes after I arrive. I figure this is the best time to clear the condensation as the condensation has not frozen yet.

So what I did to get my car to start working again, after arriving at the office yesterday, I did not shut it off. I just let it sit and idle. It apparently shuts itself off after idling for so long, which I assume is 30 or 45 minutes. Then before leaving the office (by this time it had warmed up to -4) I let it idle for about 25 minutes or so and on my way home it was better but still lugging up hills. My son had a thing at the high school (another 30 miles from home) so I picked up my two younger boys from home, and we went to town. Upon arrival at the school, I again did not shut it off, it timed out again. When I got back into the car to head home, it had cleared all the crap out, so it ran fine, but again the temp had dropped to -22 so again when I got home I did not shut it off. This morning I let it warm up for about 30 minutes and it was not as good as last night, but I could at least maintain 70mph without shifting too much. It is supposed to warm up for the next few days again so hopefully it will completely come out of it again before it gets cold again.

My business partner's son is a mechanical engineer so I am working with him to 3D print me a thing to attach to the grill so it does not look like I have a piece of black cardboard zip-tied to my grill.
Thanks for your advice. I continued looking at it and found several people who had a new CAC installed and the next day the same thing happened. Not worth it.
My commute is a bit shorter, roughly 40-50 miles each way, depending on the job site, and our temps in the Upper Peninsula are not as bad as yours. So I’m glad there are ways to “cope” with this. I’ve noticed that letting it run for 15-20 in the morning, and letting it run for a similar amount of time before turning it off has helped. The light is now off, but occasionally I can still tell that it lacks power. Looking forward to spring lol!
 

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Same issue on my 2016 malibu So yea i just went thru this last week. I was fine driving down the road, next thing i know right after hitting the gas at a stop light, check engine lights up! And my auto start wasnt working either. it actually makes since, my wife somehow lost the skid plate on the DS. It was -20 that day. Heres the weird part my yesterday i started it up and the cel was dark, engine started shifting correctly no loss of power and today my AS started working again. Should i be worried it might come back?
 

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The up and down temps in the Upper Peninsula has meant that my check engine light has been on and off for the last two weeks. Although with some really cold days this past week, the check engine light has remained on, and even trying to let the car warm up and cool down for 15-20 minutes has not helped.

For example,Tuesday the “service Stablitrak” light came on as well, which then caused the car to shake and idle very roughly, and the check engine light started flashing. On my way to the dealer Wednesday the “reduced engine power” light came on. To my surprise, the dealer said both the “Service Stablitrak” and “Check engine light” are on for the same reason and recommended I spend the $1200 to replace the CAC (reminder - 2 weeks ago to the day they said not to because it was a lot of money for the solution GM is giving).

I love Chevrolet, but it’s time to trade in the Malibu. No other issues other than the cold weather. I’m sure having a garage would help, but I do not. But now that I’m having reliability issues (and I cross the Mackinac Bridge everyday for work), the Malibu is no longer justifiable to keep. I wish you all the best with yours and thank you for your tips and input.
 

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My question is after 5 years and 81000 miles I got the p299 error. We’ve had much colder weather here in Michigan and I never have had a problem. Why am I getting moisture in unit now. What changed. Did the coding inside cac fail causing condensation. Did a seal go bad causing moisture to enter cac unit. Seems like draining it would help for a while. Seems like summer would be good time to trade in.
 
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