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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, this is really long but has everything you need to know.....
I bought my malibu 02/18/11. It runs and drives great. The a/c never blew cold so I put freon in and I could barely hear a hissing leaking sound, it blew cold for a day, then got warm again, all freon leaked out. So I figured id go without... 2 weeks later my check engine light came on, and stayed on. Then it started sqealing like a bad belt. So I replaced the belt and idler pulley. It still sqealed after that. But the car still run fine the whole time. So I tryed to ignore it. a week later my starter went bad, so I replaced it with a brand new one. Last saturday I had to take a 3 hour drive. I put some freon in it just to have some ac for the trip, I knew it would eventually leak out. it drove great the whole time until I was 1 hr from home on the way back. All of a sudden (check engine lights still on) the battery dash light came on and the dash lights started dimming and the temp. needle went up just a little. So I stopped the ac, that didn't change anything, so I kept driving. 10 minutes later the ABS light came on and stayed on, 5 minutes later the airbag light started flashing, so I exited the interstate and went to pull in at a store and right when I pulled in, the gages dropped to zero, the steering got tight, and the car completly died. So I had a friend come jump me off and I got 1 mile down the road and the same thing happened again. good thing is I broke down at advance auto parts. So I had them do a diagnostics and they said my alternator AND battery was "fried". So I put a brand new alternator on and I bought a USED battery. I cranked the car up and the belt sqeal was just horrible and the belt was spinning slower than usual and even stopped spinning a couple times. So an advance guy looked and says my tensioner pulley is bad. So I replaced the tensioner pulley assembly. After that the belt still sqealed, still seemed to spin slower, but didn't stop. I sprayed belt dressing, that didn't help. So I decided to try to drive it home, meanwhile there is no dash lights on (check engine, abs, battery, etc.) I get 10 miles, the battery light comes on. 5 miles later the abs light comes on. So I decided to stop. And again right when i pull in, steering gets tight, and the car dies. So I left it, came back the next day. The car crunk right up. No dash lights. So I try to drive it. Get 5 miles, and it dies again, remarkably at another advance auto parts. They test my alternator and battery. alternator is good, battery is bad. So I put a brand new battery in. everything seemed ok, so i tryed to drive it. I had 40 minutes to go. It did ok, I made it home. BUT during the drive the battery light came on and stayed on the whole time, and the temperature rose very slowly the whole drive to almost 3/4 of the way up. but no other dash lights came on. Then last night i was working on it before I had to go to work. With it cranked up just sitting in my yard not driving it, it does fine and the sqeal isn't as loud. But as soon as I try to drive it the dash lights right away were dimmer, the sqeal was very loud, a mile down the road the battery and ABS light came on, so I hurried home. Parked in my yard, shut it off, crunk right back up with no dash lights and seemed to run just fine. it seems to only happen when i drive it..... Its a regular model malibu, nothing special, also, when i bought it the odometer never worked so I dont know how many miles are on the car. Hopefully everything you need to know is here, and I would gladly give out my phone #, to make this easier lol. Thank you in advance fire your help, i hope we can figure this out :)
 

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Check the battery cables and clamps.
 

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Have you loosened the bolts all the way and examined the connections and cables yourself?

If "good and tight" just means that the bolts and tightened down, your cable clamps and the cables themselves can still be corroded, sometimes even inside the insulation where you cannot see.

This was the case on my Malibu. I could tell that the cables had corrosion inside because the insulation was bulging and deformed.
In that corroded state, the cable can act as a big resistor, heating up when current tries to flow.

If you have not already done so, get an 8mm wrench and pull both the + and - battery connections and examine them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yea I looked them over pulled them off, everything checked out ok. Also, I had a mechanic friend look it over and he traced the wires, and he said he thinks the "power train control module" is bad. And I forgot to put one thing in my first post about my car...when I bought it, the odometer on the dash wasnt working and still isn't. The mechanic said the bad odometer is a sign that the drive train control module is going out, is he right? And thx for you're help
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Also, nothing in the digital odometer box on the dash works....not the little box that shows what gear your in, our anything else thats supposed to light up in that box. But all my gages and other dash lights work fine
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I
control module bad replace it
I think you may be right, I've talked to many people and they all say that. The only problem is every time I try to drive it and get the check engine light to come on, so I can do a diagnostic "codes" check, the battery completly dies, and it resets the codes. So I may just have to gamble on this one...
 

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I think your mechanic friend may have it right about the bad brain.

The brain is located just inboard of the parking brake. You might just remove the 2 big data cables on it (they are each held in with a machine screw in the center), spray them with contact cleaner and reinstall and see what happens.

If problems persist, then a wrecking yard module could be in your future, so good to find out where it is and how to get at it before you go down to the yard.
 
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