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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve already had my rear left caliper replaced under my extended warranty (had to buy new pads for both sides) now the same side is bad 2 years after replacement and they’re telling me the other side (right)is bad as well. It’s a 2013 LT2 with 55,000 mile. Has anyone else had these issues? It has the electric parking brake as well. Could the parking brake be the issue. Also they’re not warranty the right side for some reason which makes little sense to me. That will be argued tomorrow.
other than that I had the cam solenoid problem and a water pump go bad. And 3 tie rod ends go bad. Typical?
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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If you find out what's going on, will you come back by and share that with the forum?
 

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2017 SS Sedan 6.2L
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Sounds like the rear calipers were sticking. I know that was common on several GM cars and it happened on my 7th gen. I don't know how common it is on gen 8 Malibu models.
 

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I’ve already had my rear left caliper replaced under my extended warranty (had to buy new pads for both sides) now the same side is bad 2 years after replacement and they’re telling me the other side (right)is bad as well. It’s a 2013 LT2 with 55,000 mile. Has anyone else had these issues? It has the electric parking brake as well. Could the parking brake be the issue. Also they’re not warranty the right side for some reason which makes little sense to me. That will be argued tomorrow.
other than that I had the cam solenoid problem and a water pump go bad. And 3 tie rod ends go bad. Typical?
I had to replace a rear caliper at around 55k (out of warranty) and had something with the ABS and braking system at around 45k (which thankfully was warranty $800). Also an O2 sensor around 50k- 55k I think. It hasn't been a year for the caliper yet so we'll see..
 

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I had to replace a rear caliper at around 55k (out of warranty) and had something with the ABS and braking system at around 45k (which thankfully was warranty $800). Also an O2 sensor around 50k- 55k I think. It hasn't been a year for the caliper yet so we'll see..
Oh and this oil valve rocker whatever fiasco at 60k. It's a 14 LS. 6 years old is long in the tooth for cars today lol?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So they replaced both calipers but not the pads or rotors. I’m not sure if the problem is fixed because when I got it home I used an infrared thermometer to read all 4 wheels temperatures. The 2 fronts were around 140 degrees each but my right rear was 110 and my left rear was 178! I’m going to drive it some more over the next several days and see if it clears up any. Otherwise it’s going back again. Bad master cylinder or brake hose maybe.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
They also replaced another tie rod end. This is approximately the 3rd or fourth one. Don’t know why they’re so fragile.
 

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2016 Malibu 1LT 1.5T
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They also replaced another tie rod end. This is approximately the 3rd or fourth one. Don’t know why they’re so fragile.
I searched a few different ways with the new advanced forum search and found no other reports of tie rod end problems on gen8. A few posts about checking the condition of them but nothing indicating any failure or replacement. Google didn't even net 2013-2015 complaints on the usual gutter/sewer sites.
 

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They are not fragile. Either they are using the cheapest tie rods available or IMO they are hosing the warranty Co. for a end and alignment . My '15 is at 83k miles on the originals. Automotive industry rules are guilty until proven innocent.
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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If you suspect the shop of hosing you and/or the warranty, after they tell you what needs to be replaced and you approve it, ask to see the old parts. But before you do, put some kind of invisible dye on them so you can confirm that they are your parts and not some others they took from a box.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If you suspect the shop of hosing you and/or the warranty, after they tell you what needs to be replaced and you approve it, ask to see the old parts. But before you do, put some kind of invisible dye on them so you can confirm that they are your parts and not some others they took from a box.
They definitely replaced the tie rod end because when I got it back it was pulling to the right. They didn’t do an alignment. Back it went after 5 minute test ride. They then did the alignment and wanted to charge me $50 for it which I thought was somewhat fair, but when I went to pick it up he told me not to worry about it out in the parking lot, though he did mention that it looks like he gave me a discount to the dealership. I told him if he wanted me to pay I’d do it, but was confused about whether he was asking for $$. I wouldn’t mind tipping him if he gets me good service the first time.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
By the way I wanted to show you how they first notified me of my estimate. Mind you I brought the car in with just the left rear caliper seemingly not working correctly. It’s been replaced 2 years ago and new pads then as well. Rotors I think were cut, then. The car has 57,000 miles on it. I have an extended warranty and the car has been maintained by them the entire time.
369394EF-04AA-4401-A903-22C689092ADE.jpeg
 

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Dang, maybe I'm gonna come out of retirement with those prices. $150 worth of parts/supplies and $99 alignment I could put over $2k in my pocket. I gotta print this and show the family so they give me a little more ''love''.
 

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2016 Malibu 1LT 1.5T
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I am interested in those "rear struts".
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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The front upper suspension that used to be an A-arm and shock absorber has been replaced in many vehicles by a MacPherson strut. The rear suspension doesn't use a strut since it doesn't need to steer the wheels. It uses a regular shock absorber.

So, by using the wrong terminology, any one or combination of following may apply:
  • they're too lazy to use the right terminology
  • they actually don't know the right terminology
  • they're relying on your assumed lack of knowledge or awareness to inflate the labor cost
I can swap out one front strut with common hand tools in about 20-30 minutes. A shock absorber takes about 10 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The front upper suspension that used to be an A-arm and shock absorber has been replaced in many vehicles by a MacPherson strut. The rear suspension doesn't use a strut since it doesn't need to steer the wheels. It uses a regular shock absorber.

So, by using the wrong terminology, any one or combination of following may apply:
  • they're too lazy to use the right terminology
  • they actually don't know the right terminology
  • they're relying on your assumed lack of knowledge or awareness to inflate the labor cost
I can swap out one front strut with common hand tools in about 20-30 minutes. A shock absorber takes about 10 minutes.
Their entire quote stinks of fraud. Even the brake bleed and transmission fluid change is ridiculous. Mind you in the end I paid $106 because I have an extended warranty. Maybe they’re trying to make it seem like an extended warranty is a bargain. What they’re doing is making it seem like the last place in the world you should come to with a maintenance or repair job is this place.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well, this isn’t over. The other morning it was 18 degrees out. I went out to the car, which was started, released the electric parking brake and the rear left caliper was locked again. Brand new caliper. I tried backing up, turning the parking brake on and off several times. Tried driving and stopping. I went about a 1/4 mile and turned back towards home, in defeat and it loosened up before I got home. Bad hose? Bad master cylinder? Water in lines? Defective parking brakes?
It’s going back today for diagnostics. Again.
 
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