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My 2013 Malibu has 14300 miles on it and it unfortunately died on me yesterday. As soon as I got to the McDonald's drive thru the power steering went out then the car did. After getting it pushed off to a parking spot, I attempted to turn it on. It began clicking and the screen said service battery charging system and wouldn't turn on. My wife used her car to jump mine and it turned on, but as soon as we disconnected the jump cables the car died.

My wife went to Walmart with the battery and got me a new one. After installing it my car turned on but was only giving 11.4 volts of power. I drove it to Walmart then the car died on me again. After swapping the batteries out again the car turned on but was only giving 10 volts of power. I called roadside assistance and had my car towed to a local dealership and it has been sitting there since around 1pm yesterday and the mechanics said they don't know what to do to fix it.

Any one on here have any ideas on what it can be. And another question, the car still having its warranty, what will happen if they can't fix it at all??
 

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rocky911,

I am so sorry to hear you are having this concern. Can you please private message me your name, VIN, address, phone number, and the name of the GM dealership you are working with so I can look into this further? I look forward to hearing from you soon.

Erica Tiffany
Chevrolet Customer Service
 

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I also have a 2013 Chevy Malibu with 27889 miles on it with which I just experienced the same exact problem. The battery light came on, I looked at the voltage on the dash display and it displayed 11.5V then ran down to 9V after flashing a conserving electricity message displayed on the dash and then the car completely died.

We called a tow truck and have had the car towed to the dealership and were told that because we didn't call roadside assistance they wouldn't reimburse us for the tow charge. The repair shop charged the battery, reset the low voltage code and started it and indicated that it appears to be fine.

I struggle to feel comfortable with the car until they can tell me what caused the car to just die. The dealership is going to order a charging module of some sort but truly doesn't know what caused the car to die.

I would be anxious to hear how the initial posted problem was addressed.

Thank you!
Chris M
Charlotte VT
 

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there was a recall on the Generator Control Modules..

time to call GM Dealer.
 

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Yeah I have a 2015 Chevy Malibu that just hit 13,000 miles and first the battery saver light came on then service the charging system in the car pops up. Now as I am driving the vehicle down the interstate going 70 to 75 the cars computer conveniently shuts down my power steering and my abs breaks. This is an accident waiting to happen totally an unsafe vehicle for my family to travel in. I have already changed the alternator which cost me $300 and i am about to go and spend $200 on a new battery. I am willing to bet that after changing the battery out the car will still do whats it has has been doing. I regret ever purchasing this vehicle what seemed to be an excellent buy at first turned into damn complex nightmare. GMC fix this issue before someone ends up hurt or dead due to an accident. All these vehicles should recalled immediately!!!
 

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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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We all sympathize with you. This site is not monitored, owned, or supported by GM. We're all just owners like yourself.

If you'd like a recall to be issued, contact NHTSA and file a complaint.

If you'd like to speak with GM, call their toll-free number, which you can get from your owner's manual, online, or a dealer.

I hope you can work it out and have a safe car for your family. Nobody wishes that you or anyone else gets hurt or loses money on such a large expense as a car.
 

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Yeah I have a 2015 Chevy Malibu that just hit 13,000 miles and first the battery saver light came on then service the charging system in the car pops up. Now as I am driving the vehicle down the interstate going 70 to 75 the cars computer conveniently shuts down my power steering and my abs breaks. This is an accident waiting to happen totally an unsafe vehicle for my family to travel in. I have already changed the alternator which cost me $300 and i am about to go and spend $200 on a new battery. I am willing to bet that after changing the battery out the car will still do whats it has has been doing. I regret ever purchasing this vehicle what seemed to be an excellent buy at first turned into damn complex nightmare. GMC fix this issue before someone ends up hurt or dead due to an accident. All these vehicles should recalled immediately!!!
when you had this first issue did you go to a dealership and have your car checked???...how did you determine it needed an alternator???

which version of Malibu do you have and where are you paying $200 for a new battery???...is it an ECO???

Bill
 

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I am having a similar issue with my '15 LTZ (58,000 miles). I got the service message. I figured the batteries needed to be replaced since it was approaching 5 years in service in the mid west. I replaced both batteries with the Duracell Ultra AGM units for around $330 total. The new batteries did not cure the issue.

I am getting readings of 12.3 while driving but it will go as high as 14.2. Randomly it will go back to down to 12.3 and hold there. Its almost as if the alternator has shut off. I can get it to stay at 14.2 if I run the AC. I cam check the battery after its been turned off for awhile and it reads 12.6! This makes no sense. Help!!!

How hard is it to replace the alternator on the 2.5 motor? I have searched the ends of the web I cant find one tutorial or message thread.
 

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sounds like the alternator is working if the numbers step up like in your example of the air con being turned on...why do you think the numbers should be higher than 12.3/12.6?...

Bill
So you are saying a reading of 12.3 while driving is within proper spec? I should have mentioned the voltage only increased that one time...I can cycle the AC on and off while driving and the reading stays at 12.3 while driving. Its not constant, its random.

Just this morning to work...turned on fine, went slowly up to 13.0, and then within 30 seconds dropped back down to 12.3. After driving through my city for about 2 minutes, it climbed to 13.9 and stayed there the entire 30 min drive to work. I did not have any start/stop cycles. No AC. Main loads were the HID headlights, radio, dash lighting, fan, and of course engine components.

I did check AC draw last night and picked up a reading of 0.12 mA on the battery while running. I don't know if this means anything since I get the same reading at the battery when the engine is turned off.

How do you diagnose an alternator that acts like this? Could it be the new batteries? I still cant believe the wiring and fuses associated with this battery setup, it crazy. Maybe I'm paranoid...
 

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I scheduled an appt with a local shop for this Friday for a diagnosis. I will update everyone what they find out.

On the way home from work it read 12.3 for 98% of the way...while stopped at a long light (autostopped) the voltage reading creeped UP to 12.6!?!?!? Started driving (autostarted) and it stayed at 12.6 until I got home 5 minutes later.
 

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that's probably best...I'm unsure of what is best for the 2.5 Eco with 2 batteries...it just seems to me if you have a 12 volt system and your readings don't drop below 12v your alternator should be working...hopefully your shop will give you the answer.

Good luck,

Bill
 

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Had the shop look at it and they came back with a diagnosis of a bad alternator. Voltage drop tests came back negative which was good to hear. Batteries check out good...they are both a week old so they better be.

Appt is scheduled for this Tuesday to have them replace it. They think its the voltage regulator that is going bad. The master tech said the alternator should never go below 13.9 while running.

This morning on the way to my daughters soccer game it went up to 14.3 after starting and within 5 minutes it was back down to 12.5 until I got to the field 10 minutes later.

I will update once I get the car back on Tuesday.
 

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I agree w/tech, alternator is dropping out after it warms up. At 12.5 car was just running on the battery not on the alternator. Battery is just for starting and a cushion for the alternator, vehicle is powered by the alternator while running. Auto stop is disabled in my 'bu BTW
 
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That's good news! I am not that familiar with the charging system in the later gen8 having the dual batteries. So what sort of readings do you see now? Your previous posts list cruising voltages of 12.3, 12.6, 13.9, 14.2... etc. In my gen9 that would all be normal but the system is totally different.
 

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That's good news! I am not that familiar with the charging system in the later gen8 having the dual batteries. So what sort of readings do you see now? Your previous posts list cruising voltages of 12.3, 12.6, 13.9, 14.2... etc. In my gen9 that would all be normal but the system is totally different.
I am getting between 13.9-14.1 while driving. This was with the AC/defrost running. After 30 min of driving it stays at 14.0 volts. The brand of alternator they use is Ultima, they weren't sure on the model number though. They said it was the "premium" offering and it came with their shop warranty of 3 year/ 36K miles. That peace of mind was worth the upcharge (I can only assume) on the part.

So with two new AGM batteries and a new alternator, I should be set for awhile now...
 

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Once your batteries get fully charged you'll see the voltage dropping some. I just did a 4 hr ride last weekend in my car and after a couple hours of daytime driving voltage was down to 12.6-12.7. at a steady cruise. Your post got me curious to see what my car was doing so I would occasionally put the voltmeter up on the display.
 
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