[Delphi_Man]

Once in a while, I get the message to service traction and ESC. Now the wrinkle to all of this is that, if I turn the car off and restart, it goes away. Anyone have this issue? It has happened a few times now and is never there when I restart the next time.

Thanks.

 

[GTPMALIBU]

go to the dealer and have them check your cat.

 

[Yefeng]

I had a similar problem which was due to using bad quality gas, however after running it dry a few times it kinda fixed itself. However I feel the cars acceleration is sluggish now...

 

[triplex-08]

if the service traction control light is on, or service stability, then its not powertrain related. not a cat, has nothing to do with poor fuel. unless the engine is misfiring, or other concerns exist with drivability. if not, then its not going to disable the stability system.

the reason that it resets after you turn the car off, is because it IS resetting itself. when it comes on, you need to take it to the dealer, do not shut off the car, take it directly to the shop, tell them to test it without shutting it off. the problem is current when the light is on. most likely - it is a wheel speed sensor failing intermittently, or wiring from the electronic brake control module to one of the wheel speed sensors. fixed several of them for various rear hub failures, few front hubs, had open circuits in the wiring to the wheel speed sensors, and even have had failed EBCM's. you wont know until the vehicle is tested. there will be a chassis DTC in the EBCM for the fault.

 

[dominogold]

Well my service ESC and service traction came on and it killed my car in the middle of the freeway. Lost all power immediately and it won't start.

 

[Delphi_Man]

Thanks Triplex. I will do that as soon as it happens again and I have time to do so.

 

[CarlsSS]

Once in a while, I get the message to service traction and ESC. Now the wrinkle to all of this is that, if I turn the car off and restart, it goes away. Anyone have this issue? It has happened a few times now and is never there when I restart the next time.

Thanks.

Just curious, have you had this error re-occur yet? The reason I ask is I had this very same thing happening to my HHR SS on/off for almost 6 months. I think they finally nailed it down this time. It was in and out of the shop about 4 times, the last time for 11 days!

I was getting a P2138 code that current with mine and it ended up being a burned wire in the wiring harness. They had replaced the entire pedal assembly first, but that didn't solve it. This time they had to relace all of the leads between the throttle pedal assembly that went to the ECM. Looks like that was a total of 5 wires, but I do not know how many connectors.

Good luck!

 

[Brossard]

I took delivery of a 2008 Malibu LT2 tonight at 8 pm . When driving to my home, the car started to brake by itself when I took off my feet from the gas pedal to a complete stop in a relatively short distance without using my brake pedal. When I stated to give gas, It felt like I was towing a charge heavier than my car. Suddenly a chime with the ESC yellow light blinking and the ''Service ESC'' message appearing on the DIC. So I decided to stop to the closest Chevrolet dealer from where I was at this point arriving there at 8h30.

The service dept was close but the receptionnist at the showroom took care of me like a was already a client with a car bought at this place and it was the first thing I told her that I just took delivery at another dealer. They finally gave me a courtesy car for the weekend as it was impossible for me to rent one because of the time.

So after 15 minutes of driving my new Malibu, it is already in for repairs ! Hoping I didn't get a full time membership to the service dept with this car ! The car have also a 4yrs extended warranty.

 

[Brossard]

Last evening at 8 pm, I took delivery of my 2008 Malibu with 25 000 km. Driving back at home the car suddenly started to brake by itself to a complete stop as soon I took off my foot from the gas pedal ! When I gave gas, it was like I had a 20,000 lbs trailer ! Then I eard a bell chime, the ESC ligh came on and the DIC indicated Service ESC ! I stop the car and restarted it and the ESC light disappeared and no message on DIC but the car still doing the same thing. Then after 1 mile, the bell, light and message came on again. Doing the same procedure I finally arrived at another Chevy dealer near my place but Service dept was close.

I phone my dealer and all he found to say was ''Call the GM Roadside Assistance'' knowing I was already at another dealer. Very impressive !

I called GMRA and they said that the dealer where I was will take care of me. So I went to the showroom and explained my situation to the receptionnist. They effectively took care of me like I was the most important client of this dealer knowing that I just took delivery from another Chevy dealer ! Also, because it was impossible for me to rent a car for the weekend because it was too late, they offered me a courtesy car (Cobalt) asking me to come back Monday morning.

I hope I didn't get with the Malibu a full time membership with the service department. It's a bit frustating to arrive at home with this base Cobalt after advising my wife and all neighberhood that I will have a Malibu !

 

[BillD64]

With a drive by wire throttle there are certain problems where the engine computer cannot control the throttle properly. When this happens the engine computer sends a message to the electronic brake control module that it cannot perform requested torque functions. The EBCM then shuts down stability control and traction control.

There are other problems in the ABS system that can affect the Traction Control and Stability Control. If the EBCM senses unusual wheel speeds Traction Control can be triggered for what seems to be no reason. Since the poster above mentions he bought a used car the first thing I would check is to see if the front or rear tires are the wrong size. If the front tires are the incorrect diameter in relation to the rear tires Traction Control can be triggered since the EBCM sees the fronts turning faster than they should when compared to the rears. Simple fix but maybe costly. Just buy the correct size tires.
Wheel speed sensor issues and corroded wiring connections can also trigger traction control.

Bill

 

[dominogold]

Update to my post earlier...

It was towed to the nearest dealer. It took them 2 days to look at it and they found some kind of electronic control board to the fuel injectors became "unplugged". Took them 5 minutes to fix once they found the problem.

Nice to know critical components just randomly become unplugged in this brand new car.

 

[Delphi_Man]

I am waiting for this to happen again on my day off. Then I will take it directly to the dealer.

 

[Malibu2008LTZ]

Once in a while, I get the message to service traction and ESC. Now the wrinkle to all of this is that, if I turn the car off and restart, it goes away. Anyone have this issue? It has happened a few times now and is never there when I restart the next time.

Thanks.

Oh yes, very familiar with this problem on my 2008 Malibu!! It has been in the shop three times now and the dealership could not figure out the problem. They are now fixing the throttle body on it. I hope this works as the car starts to power the engine down when it says service traction, ESC off and I can not go over 40 mph! I only have 22,ooo miles on it- so I am praying they fix this before it's out of warranty. It really is a beautiful car, all problems aside.

 

[busedjohnson]

I just had the problem with the 3 chimes and the service ESC light. I took it back to the dealer and told them what happened. I was in the waiting room about 15 minutes when my guy came back and told me they had to order a part.
According to the invoice: 1) a short in the traction control switch was found; 2) replaced the control switch; and 3) the description = Switch 4.710.

C. J. loves the 2008 Chevy Malibu LS

 

[E_Net_Rider]

if the service traction control light is on, or service stability, then its not powertrain related. not a cat, has nothing to do with poor fuel. unless the engine is misfiring, or other concerns exist with drivability. if not, then its not going to disable the stability system.

the reason that it resets after you turn the car off, is because it IS resetting itself. when it comes on, you need to take it to the dealer, do not shut off the car, take it directly to the shop, tell them to test it without shutting it off. the problem is current when the light is on. most likely - it is a wheel speed sensor failing intermittently, or wiring from the electronic brake control module to one of the wheel speed sensors. fixed several of them for various rear hub failures, few front hubs, had open circuits in the wiring to the wheel speed sensors, and even have had failed EBCM's. you wont know until the vehicle is tested. there will be a chassis DTC in the EBCM for the fault.

Very good. I also have had similar issues, the latest being the security light and it took three starts to make it go away.
Often if a wheel sensor is at fault, it will blink a number of times indicating which one is at fault, during the start up.
There is a SB that admits they left diodes out of the cooling fan circuit which exposes all the electronics to voltage spikes. This is one of several things that are very damaging to electronic components, especially semi-conductors whether it is a simple transistor or a computer chip. Sometimes such a spike will just kill the component, other times it damages it with a shortened life expectancy. The surge punches a hole through the PN junction and can cause a short at that point. If it is a relatively tiny hole it may only cause leakage, but also a hot spot that might eventually kill the component. Also shorts may be temporary such as when you turn off power and it does not show as a problem when power is reapplied, not immediately anyway.
There have been some posting that seem to connect dead ECM, TCM, and ABS to it.
What burns me up is they did the same stupid thing during the '90's with the Aurora and they are doing the same fix for this one.

 

[Brossard]

My problem was very special. When I took delivery of my car last october, the car was stopping by itself and it was like I was pulling a trailer of 10,000 lbs and the Service traction and ESC lights and chime came on. It cost GM a maximum of 10 cents in pieces and 3 man hours. When my steering was at the lowest position without telescoping, it was interfering with the brake pedal mechanism so brake was applied. A service bulletin was issued on this specific problem for Malibu with electric pedals and to correct this problem, only 2 small washers in specific size and thickness was necessary. I don't know where it goes exactly but they have to dismantled everything under the steering wheel and behind the master cylinder under the hood to install these 2 small washers. The ESC light came on because both gas and brake pedals was applied at the same time for too long I think so computer didn't know what to do (Braking or accelerating). It was the first time the service technician had this problem code from the OBD2 module and after a quick search in the computer, he found the TSB explaining the problem and the solution.

So if you have electric pedals and if you lowered your steering at the maximum and completely retracted position, it may interfere with the accelerator mechanism.

 

[E_Net_Rider]

My problem was very special. When I took delivery of my car last october, the car was stopping by itself

So if you have electric pedals and if you lowered your steering at the maximum and completely retracted position, it may interfere with the accelerator mechanism.

It was common practice to have an adjustment for the rod that pushes the master cylinder plunger. It sounds like they thought they make every car exactly the same and did not need that adjustment anymore.

Electric pedals?
One small annoyance I've encountered is the amount the pedal has to be depressed to release the cruise control. Far more than any other vehicle I've driven. Many times I've tapped the brake and discover it did not release. Many older vehicles had separate switches for cruise circuit, brake lights, computer input, etc. And they were adjustable for the amount of movement before actuating. I don't know of this vehicles config, but now worry if brake light is being delayed and need to check if my warning tap to those behind me is actually working.

 

[engineer25]

Is there one single thing you like about this car????

 

[E_Net_Rider]

Is there one single thing you like about this car????

It really makes me question the engineering I must admit.
The combination of the I4 to the A6 was a big plus. Better pep and mileage, and I said "was" because of something that came to light yesterday, but not sure if it is just mine or a flaw in A6.

I ran across a post about a shudder at lower speeds yesterday. I too have it sometimes but was having real trouble trying to decipher where or what it was from.
It seems I may have gotten a big clue yesterday when starting from temp of 49. A bit cooler than we've had most days. When it shifted to third gear, it felt very much like it had slipped into neutral. Light but steady accel and several stop signs before leaving my neighborhood with speeds up to 35 mph.
I start watching tach. Instead of settling to the shifted RPM, it sluggishly dropped about half of the RPM, hesitated, then dropped the rest of the way before having positive engagement.
The amount of time that clutch would have been slipping is very disconcerting. I have not seen a break down of the tranny, but following what normally happens with electronic shift vs mechanical valve body, it seems highly likely that some sort of internal leak is occuring at cooler temps. Since it did not occur at other shifts, that seems most likely.
The complaints of shudder match the range of speed. The difference might be temp. Assuming no leaks, then it might be tied to pressure regulation, except then it would seem to be the same across all gear changes, except if the 2-3 shift engages another clutch without disengaging a different one. Then, there might not be enough volume & pressure to positively lock as it should.
Anyway, still a mystery, but needs deciphering.

 

[RFB7105]

I had a similar issue with 2008 LTZ 3.6, and the dealer found a bad solonoid and connector. Once replaced it never came back and the car is running fine.