[mikereilley]

I recently replaced the front door speakers with JBL GTO629 6.5 speakers as well as Rockford Fosgate tweeters in my 2016 LT. The speakers definitely sound better than before, but I feel that I am missing a great deal of sound for how much I paid for the speakers. I am assuming that the stock amplifier and head unit aren't powerful enough for the speakers. Has anyone upgraded the head unit or amplifier and had success in making the speakers louder?

 

[campb292]

I doubt this is a limitation of the amp or head. If you are noticing improvement over the stock speakers they are probably performing as designed (assuming the originals were working properly). JBL GTO629 ($75 for a pair on Amazon) are entry level speakers. I have a 2016 LT and added Hertz MPX PRO which are pretty mid as far as speakers go and they can be really, really loud and clear. You can always start messing with the amp but I wouldn't.

 

[mikereilley]

I doubt this is a limitation of the amp or head. If you are noticing improvement over the stock speakers they are probably performing as designed (assuming the originals were working properly). JBL GTO629 ($75 for a pair on Amazon) are entry level speakers. I have a 2016 LT and added Hertz MPX PRO which are pretty mid as far as speakers go and they can be really, really loud and clear. You can always start messing with the amp but I wouldn't.

I appreciate the response. The Amazon reviews of the JBL speakers are solid, and most people rave about the bass. When my sub is disconnected the bass is much less than I would expect out of aftermarket speakers. I understand that they arent top of the line, but stock speakers in other cars (such as a 2011 ford taurus with the sony sound system) have a lot deeper bass. This is what led me to wonder if the stock amp or head unit weren't enough. I did some research on the stock amp and couldn't find much information on the exact specs. All I found was someone claiming there to be around 18 watts rms that goes to the door speakers. The rms on the JBL speakers is 60 watts, so I was wondering if the speakers aren't getting enough power. I will sometimes hear slight distortion in the tweeters on some songs when its not that loud. With other songs and much higher notes the tweeters scream with no distortion. I read online that speakers can distort if they aren't getting enough power so that's what led me to think that I would need a new amp.

Note: I am pretty much brand new to car audio so if anything I am saying doesn't make sense, please feel free to correct me.

 

[MalibuStang]

Most aftermarket upgrades on speakers are wasted because the OEM amp (either separate or built into the head unit) are severely underpowered to let the upgrades shine or, the speakers aren't properly matched to the Amps specs.

GTO629 | This JBL series incorporates many patents that are also found in JBL's pro speakers

Coaxial 6-1/2" (165mm) factory-sized replacement speakers

th.jbl.com

Which system do you have in your LT? The 6 speaker or the 9 speaker Bose? You cannot trust the RMS specs on most OEM systems, they are overrated and lack in quality for the most part.

The speakers you got are listed to work with 5-125w (RMS) and are also an odd impedance (3 ohms). Impedance is a speakers resistance to electrical current (audio signal). The lower the number, the less resistence, the louder a speaker can get with the same amount of power compared to a speaker with a higher resistance given the same level of power. There are advantages and disadvantages to using higher or lower impedance. I won't get into that right now.

What's important to know is that it's important to match impedances from the amp output to match those of speaker. Most aftermarket amps can run a range of impedances but, they have an optimal one. OEM amps should only be matched to speakers that match their impedance..

Ford has always run odd impedances to boost the volume level of their systems. You can tell because about midway to full volume, you get nothing but distortion. A properly matched speaker to amp combo with proper tuning should get you to 90% or 95% of the maximum volume range on the head unit with little to no distortion.

You have started down a serious rabbit hole and will need to further explore by getting an amp to better match the speaker specs

 

[campb292]

Decent info above but sketchy conclusion. Don't replace your amp to match cheap low end speakers. $40 speakers are not worth the can of worms this opens. This is just a friendly caution after reading ideas like this for years and reading how it usually turns out. This is not your grandma's 97 Buick. You have to really understand car audio and the electronics of this car to avoid a serious case of Malibu Diarrhea.

 

[mikereilley]

Decent info above but sketchy conclusion. Don't replace your amp to match cheap low end speakers. $40 speakers are not worth the can of worms this opens. This is just a friendly caution after reading ideas like this for years and reading how it usually turns out. This is not your grandma's 97 Buick. You have to really understand car audio and the electronics of this car to avoid a serious case of Malibu Diarrhea.

What do you suggest I do other than buy new speakers? Keep in mind that if I would install a new head unit or amp I would take it to a local shop that I know is trusted. I called earlier today and explained the situation and his immediate response was that a head unit would most likely be the issue. Is it worth a shot?

 

[campb292]

I don't know enough about your car's history to make any recommendation to you other than what I already cautioned. I never heard your original speakers to know if they were working normally or they had a problem. The 6-speaker system isn't great but it isn't terrible either. It's better than what you find in a newer RAV4, Accord, Camry etc. The tweeters and fronts are cheap but functional but the rear speakers are awful. Getting new rear speakers is a good target. I just wouldn't tear out the amp and ANC module to try to get more from budget speakers.

Did you recently acquire this car?

 

[MalibuStang]

Decent info above but sketchy conclusion. Don't replace your amp to match cheap low end speakers. $40 speakers are not worth the can of worms this opens. This is just a friendly caution after reading ideas like this for years and reading how it usually turns out. This is not your grandma's 97 Buick. You have to really understand car audio and the electronics of this car to avoid a serious case of Malibu Diarrhea.

Yep, you're right, I don't know the specifics of this car. And It's my fault for not asking. If the system is OEM and was functioning correctly prior to the upgrade, my conclusion still stands.

It sounds like you may know or at least be aware of the following but, I'm putting it out there for others that may not know.
In this specific case IF it's an OEM system and was working well before the speakers were upgraded, a High to Low level adapter would be used to take the speaker level outputs and convert them to a preamp (low level) output for a micro amp like Alpine or Sony. The amp would be wired in, then hidden behind or under the glove box and viola, done. Not even close to acceptable for an audiophile but a significant upgrade for most casual listeners. Those cheap speakers will sound fine with an upgraded amp that resolves any impedance or underpower issues which are the two most likely reasons the current speaker upgrade was a disappointment.

I left out a ton of information because car audio for a casual listener can be a rabbit hole.

8 out of 10 times, just a speaker replacement ends up in disappointment for just the reason I mentioned. The OEM built the system to work together adequately. Note I said adequately. When you replace one part in the chain (usually speakers), the system may not respond (sound) how it's expected to for the basic reason already covered. Impedance is the bigger one these days followed by underpowered.. Other things include but are not limited to sensitivity, speaker design for the space its going into, frequency response, crossover roll-off, etc, etc, etc. I can get as detailed as you think you want or think you need.

For most casual listeners, a simple speaker and amp upgrade is all they need to make them happy. The rabbit hole is simply them realizing that when the sound does get better, they want more...either higher volume or crisper highs with clearer lows, or whatever they end up realizing they want.

There is no "amp" to replace in the basic system. It's part of the Head Unit. I'm not even sure the Bose system has a separate amp. Either way, an amp can be added to the base system. It won't give the perfect sound but it's a simple solution that won't require getting into possible programming and functionality issues of replacing the Head Unit which is built into the driver interface (Touch Screen).

 

[campb292]

@MalibuStang
You might want to pick up the service manual. With it you can learn all about the amplifier and anc unit equipped in the LS/RS/LT/Premier Bose and non-Bose trims. Sure, the OP can patch in a new amp and probably get louder sound from cheap speakers but like most owners will end up with a bunch of problems. It usually never works or works for a while then problems start and owners end up here trying to figure out why it broke. He could also buy the right quality speakers and clear sound that is plenty loud. I can't really say any more here.

Good luck to the OP on whatever is decided.

 

[Vince Foster]

I posted here back in late Fall of 2020 about the sound upgrade I did. I did NOT want to mess with replacing the factory "aluminum box" amp because there are too many control features that run thru the audio system. I know there are car audio guys who will do it but I did not want to risk it.
From what I can learn online about the OEM amp, it probably can put out about 10 to 12 watts per channel, 4 ohms, at low distortion. That is not bad compared to the car audio of 30 years ago. The OEM speakers probably have efficiency of 89 or 90 db at 1 watt, average for car speakers.
I replace the 2 rear speakers with Kicker 2-way 6.5" speakers. Similar efficiency but some improvement in sound quality.
The OEM speakers in the rear doors have whizzer cones for tweeters! For a new car that's really cheapo crap.
For the front, I went with Dayton Audio PS65LP speakers because they are super-efficient, about 95 db at one watt. That is almost twice as loud as the OEM
speakers, which would take well over a 50 watt/ch amp with less efficient speakers. I replaced the front tweeters with the cheap Power Acoustik tweeters that
WalMart sells. These also are super efficient and sound much better than the factory tweeters. I turn the treble down quite a bit or it sounds too bright.
There is only so much deep bass you can get from 6.5" speakers. Adding a subwoofer opens another can of worms.
Overall I am very happy with the sound I'm getting. I can play plenty loud without having to max out the volume.