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Did anyone have to trim the inner lip on the metra dash adapter? My pioneer is really recessed
My stereo (Pioneer 4100NEX) fit, but I did have to trim the upper inner lip because when the face plate tilted down (it's a motorized unit) it would catch on the inside lip. I'll post a picture later.
 

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Got it in and steering wheel controls mostly work, Bluetooth didn't auto program with the aswc-1 but volume and up down arrows change the presets.
I did repaint the dash kit as I scratched it trimming the inner lip so the head unit fit flush.
Turned out pretty good.
The GM silver paint from the first post is a exact match :)
 

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Can anyone recommend a good backup camera that fits the Malibu license plate light?

Also has anyone used those wireless transmitters for the backup camera?
 

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In case anyone is putting in a metra GMOS-LAN-03 harness and is wondering why there are two dimmer wires(orange/white)...

After you pull the stereo you need to check if the GM side of the harness has a wire in the position where dimmer wire is on the GM 30 pin plug of the GMOS.
If there is a wire then use that one, if no wire then use the other dimmer wire on the plug that goes into the black module.

I used the one that goes into the black module and the dimmer works perfectly, dims with the auto headlight system.
 

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Hello all! First post on this website so please forgive any transgressions.

I'm wanting to put in an aftermarket head unit. I've got an 08 LTZ with the in dash CD changer.

I'm told by crutchfield that I have a factory amplifier, sounds right given that the front speakers are components. They also told me that it only has about 10 watts RMS. This surprised me and sounds wrong, because the bass response from 60hz up is pretty dang good and those low frequencies take a lot more power to produce. But anyway to my question. If I do indeed have the factory amplifier, why would I want to tap into it with my new head unit which will be producing 22w RMS x 4? I currently have a subwoofer hooked up with a line output converter, and the sound quality is fantastic now in the car. I faded the speakers halfway to the front to take some of the power off of the rear speakers because they distort and sound like crap when they try to play bass lower than 60hz at the volume my subwoofer can.

My question is if I just bypass any factory amp and run the speakers directly off my head unit, what might happen? The speakers in the front do an excellent job playing 70hz and up, and that can be a difficult frequency range to hit (65-120hz) without getting new speakers on a external amp. I'm worried that simply running the mids and highs directly off of a new aftermarket head unit will somehow mess up the crossover cause the speakers to not sound as good as they do on the factory amp. I am worried I may lose the tweeters or something else too, can anyone shed some light on this if they have experience with this particular scenario? I intend to eventually replace all the speakers and put in a nice 4 channel amp. But that's going to be a bit down the road from now. At the moment I am satisfied with the sound that I have but I think that my aux input is kind of messed up (i have to finagle it sometimes to get all the speakers playing which might be a cord, so i just bought a new one to test it), i also want the extra features that an aftermarket head unit provides, and maybe i'd like to achieve some greater SPL levels later on.

I intend to peruse the previous pages of this thread in search of an answer while I wait for a reply, thanks in advance!
 

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Has anyone done a under seat active subwoofer? If so what brand did u use etc..need to ad some bass I upgraded head unit and all speakers but don't want a do a system in t he truck do to using my trunk. Thanks in advance
 

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Hello all! First post on this website so please forgive any transgressions.

I'm wanting to put in an aftermarket head unit. I've got an 08 LTZ with the in dash CD changer.

I'm told by crutchfield that I have a factory amplifier, sounds right given that the front speakers are components. They also told me that it only has about 10 watts RMS. This surprised me and sounds wrong, because the bass response from 60hz up is pretty dang good and those low frequencies take a lot more power to produce. But anyway to my question. If I do indeed have the factory amplifier, why would I want to tap into it with my new head unit which will be producing 22w RMS x 4? I currently have a subwoofer hooked up with a line output converter, and the sound quality is fantastic now in the car. I faded the speakers halfway to the front to take some of the power off of the rear speakers because they distort and sound like crap when they try to play bass lower than 60hz at the volume my subwoofer can.

My question is if I just bypass any factory amp and run the speakers directly off my head unit, what might happen? The speakers in the front do an excellent job playing 70hz and up, and that can be a difficult frequency range to hit (65-120hz) without getting new speakers on a external amp. I'm worried that simply running the mids and highs directly off of a new aftermarket head unit will somehow mess up the crossover cause the speakers to not sound as good as they do on the factory amp. I am worried I may lose the tweeters or something else too, can anyone shed some light on this if they have experience with this particular scenario? I intend to eventually replace all the speakers and put in a nice 4 channel amp. But that's going to be a bit down the road from now. At the moment I am satisfied with the sound that I have but I think that my aux input is kind of messed up (i have to finagle it sometimes to get all the speakers playing which might be a cord, so i just bought a new one to test it), i also want the extra features that an aftermarket head unit provides, and maybe i'd like to achieve some greater SPL levels later on.

I intend to peruse the previous pages of this thread in search of an answer while I wait for a reply, thanks in advance!
My question is if I just bypass any factory amp and run the speakers directly off my head unit, what might happen? You will get cleaner sound and more capabilities depending on the head unit you choose. You won't lose the dynamics you already have in the front but you will get the chance to fade back to the rear at least a little bit. You will not mess up any crossovers as long as you hook them up correctly but correct me if I'm wrong but aren't your tweeters within the the speaker in the doors? 2+way Coaxials like most factory and aftermarket front speakers have built in crossovers whereas the paper woofer in the rear is always basic junk even if at 8 ohms. If you have a factory component set with separate tweeters that's a different story because they usually do require passive or active crossovers.

You are correct, why would anyone want to use the factory amp if the head unit puts out more power? It will be better to use the head unit's power until you do get that 4ch amp. You won't lose any of that bottom end you are already getting until you do get some aftermarket speakers. Depending on the brand (and cost) of the speakers you will probably notice a lack or attenuation of "boomy" bass coming from the cabin speakers but the bass is usually much cleaner. Some speakers naturally already have a drop off around 80 Hz but still require additional high pass filters or bass blockers to reduce the distortion caused by bass frequencies. Then again you could buy something like a pair of JL's for $500 and power it with their even more expensive amps and probably live without any subwoofers.

That's my question for you; Do you want to add any subwoofers and what subwoofer do you already have? If you have a 4 ohm sub that could easily run off the rear channel of a 4ch amp or be better powered by an additional 2ch or mono block amp with perhaps a brother. Honestly, there is no need for speakers in the rear of a car other than the subs in the trunk unless you are going after some midbass but that would require an additional amp and/or crossovers. I personally feel that leaving the speaker holes in the rear deck empty allows more bass and pressure to enter the cabin even with the rear seats standing upright. Technically, if you were an audiophile like me then you would understand the importance of a front facing sound stage or one that makes you feel as if you are on stage with the band and you are/or standing next to the drummer. If we had a rear engine car we could have the subwoofers in the front and feel as if we were at a concert but that's a whole nother story. >:)

Come to think of it there is always the option of running the subwoofer off the rear channel of the head unit by bridging it by itself if it is 4 ohms or more!!! Forget the rear cabin speakers and just enjoy the cleaner sound from the front! Passengers in the back can still hear the cleaner sound as long as you turn it up enough. :grin:
 

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Hey guys, so I'm not actually interested in upgrading my stock radio, but I am interested in upgrading at least the front door speakers. I don't really care about more bass and whatnot but I'd just like something that puts out a little bit more sound. I don't have the Bose system even though I faked it out with my LTZ upgrade and put Bose stickers over the speaker grilles. I was looking at Scosche, Sony, and Pioneer over at Walmart yesterday. But my only concern is wattage. Like it says on the Scosche it has 200 wattage outputs, Sony was 540 wattage, and I think Pioneer was 320 watts. I just want to make sure that if I install any of these that I'm not going to blow something or overload the circuit. Obviously I'd probably just blow a fuse if that was the case but I'd rather just be prepared and buy what I need in the first place. I can't remember what model numbers these were but they were the 6 1/2-6 3/4 versions and they were 29.99, 34.99, and 49.99 in price respectively. I don't know a lot about this part of the electrical business and I can't seem to get a clear answer out of where I'm looking. But I do know the Scosche said it was direct fit or something to the like so I don't know if that means just size-wise or if it means it's basically compatible with stock parts. I'd appreciate if anyone cares to weigh in.

To sum it up, I just want a little bit better sound if that's even a possibility with new speakers, but I don't care about head banging thumping like a lot of the kids are.
 

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Does anyone know of a cheaper wiring harness that doesn't incorporate any of the extras (on star, steering wheel control, etc...)? I just want to get my new double din hooked up and cannot find anything that works outside of the $100 harness mentioned in this thread. I don't have on-star so I would really like to avoid spending $100 for something I don't even need.
 

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Does anyone know of a cheaper wiring harness that doesn't incorporate any of the extras (on star, steering wheel control, etc...)? I just want to get my new double din hooked up and cannot find anything that works outside of the $100 harness mentioned in this thread. I don't have on-star so I would really like to avoid spending $100 for something I don't even need.
Sorry but I don't know of any, other than the GMOS LAN stuff. If you're looking to save a little $, then Crutchfield.com usually discounts installation components when you order big ticket items from them (such as head units.) They have pretty good tech and customer support too.
 

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I was afraid of that, I've been hunting the internet for the last week and haven't come up with anything reliable. Thanks though, will check out Crutchfield.
 

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Does anyone know of a cheaper wiring harness that doesn't incorporate any of the extras (on star, steering wheel control, etc...)? I just want to get my new double din hooked up and cannot find anything that works outside of the $100 harness mentioned in this thread. I don't have on-star so I would really like to avoid spending $100 for something I don't even need.
I am in the same boat, sorta.

I had a Sony single-din unit that I installed using the Metra kit, Scosche wiring harness/chime keeper, etc.

Last year, I upgraded to a Pioneer double-din with touch screen, Android auto, etc. Simply connected the Scosche harness to the new unit.

Now, I am wanting to temporarily reinstall the Sony to allow proof of concept for some Arduino experiments I'm working on. I really don't want to disconnect then reattach the adapter harness, then redo all of it again in a few months.

I've been searching eBay for something with at least the right connectors on it to allow a quick and dirty connection for the Sony.

If I find anything I'll report back.
 
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