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Nice article from Gears Magazine regarding the latest CVT. I still cannot like the design of a CVT: Two smooth faced variable pulleys with a roller chain trapped between them, all while bathed in lubricant, and expecting it to reliably drive a vehicle.

I'm still one that if the vehicle has a CVT transmission, I probably won't consider owning it. My personal opinion; CVT's belong in UTV's, golf carts and snowmobiles!

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I love how people always get a new engine or transmission under warranty and the first thing they want to do is get rid of it!!! KEEP IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I agree. Unless the car has proven itself to be a lemon constantly returning to the shop, getting a fresh engine or transmission should completely remedy the situation. At least ride out the warranty term, there's nothing to lose.
 

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I agree on the engine or transmission replacements. I still have 30,000 miles on my service contract and should my engine blow pistons and I am lucky enough for them to replace the whole engine I would be thrilled and keep it. New engine, possibly with updates to problems they have seen, no miles on that engine likely some additional warranty - heck new free oil and coolant... win win! Same for a transmission - new unit with possible problems worked out, new fluid, and zero miles that's a deal.
 
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2011 Malibu LTZ 3.6L V6 Red Jewel Tintcoat
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Heck yeah!

My Gen7 V6 engine grenaded itself just 9,ooo miles shy of the end of the warranty. I ended up with a replacement covered 100%.

Still driving it and hope to keep it for a long time yet to come!
 

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I've had CVT experience since 1981 . On snowmobiles, 2 variable pulleys and a belt. CVT whether steel or rubber belt is the same design.
Belts wear as slippage occurs in any CVT as drive and driven pulleys close and open. Only difference is pulleys do not wear with rubber belts like steel on steel does. That's why trans. are replaced not rebuilt. CVT is just a cheaper way to built a trans. not a better or more robust unit. Same with FWD, Mfgrs. just sold the bill of goods as better when it was a cheaper, multi use of components across a larger product line.
 

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The only thing that sells me on FWD is that it loses less energy getting the power to the wheels.

But for larger quantities of power, I still prefer RWD.
 

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The only thing that sells me on FWD is that it loses less energy getting the power to the wheels.

But for larger quantities of power, I still prefer RWD.
The power loss thing isn't true anymore. The power losses on a modern RWD drivetrain are ridiculously low, between 10-15%. Any mechanical advantage of FWD is lost in the computer calibration. The 7th generation Malibu 3.6L lost about 20% of power at the wheels (generally 200 wheel horsepower +/- 5 hp) and that's basically the worst you'll see from any RWD car from GM at the time. My LS3/TR6060 6-speed combo dates back to 2010 and the losses are known to be roughly 15%.

The advantage of FWD these days is driving manners, manufacturing simplicity, and cargo/interior packaging.
 

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"The advantage of FWD these days is driving manners, manufacturing simplicity, and cargo/interior packaging."

Driving manners certainly getting up a snow-covered inclines. My first car, a 78 Caprice, had RWD - just couldn't manage that - I just stopped trying. When I replaced that beast with a FWD Beretta, it was like night and day - effortlessly going up snowy roads. I have never looked back.

Back to the main topic issue. Does anyone know how the CVT's auxiliary fluid pump was modified mid model year? I have '19 BU, and am just curious what changes were made to that pump. Also curious if anyone knows the VIN range of the original versus modified fluid pumps.

Merci buttercups.
 

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The only thing that sells me on FWD is that it loses less energy getting the power to the wheels.

But for larger quantities of power, I still prefer RWD.
For ridiculous amounts of power, I prefer AWD. Bar special drag racing tires, normal RWD cars start to lose traction around 500HP (new Corvette was smart to have a mid-engine, but it is a GM product the first year).
 

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FWD stinks in snow. I'll take a RWD with snows places a FWD with snows could only dream about.
Once that R front starts spinning with FWD your headed for the ditch and lost your momentum. RWD your spinning and going sideways but you have steering and your keeping momentum up and moving.
25+ yrs. of driving vans around FWD cars in my way in snowstorms.
 

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For ridiculous amounts of power, I prefer AWD. Bar special drag racing tires, normal RWD cars start to lose traction around 500HP (new Corvette was smart to have a mid-engine, but it is a GM product the first year).
I agree with this. I am not sure what happened to the new Corvette going RWD with that kind of power. It steers and feels better on the road in turns but nothing wrong with being able to kick in 2 more wheels when needed. GM finally got rid of the nostalgia manual so it doesn't lose 50% of the timing under heavy accel with 500hp. Only an automatic can shift adequately at sub 3 second 0-60. However exotics with 500+hp now go AWD or 4WD with automatics to keep traction control systems from over-nerfing under heavy load.
 

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I agree with this. I am not sure what happened to the new Corvette going RWD with that kind of power. It steers and feels better on the road in turns but nothing wrong with being able to kick in 2 more wheels when needed. GM finally got rid of the nostalgia manual so it doesn't lose 50% of the timing under heavy accel with 500hp. Only an automatic can shift adequately at sub 3 second 0-60. However exotics with 500+hp now go AWD or 4WD with automatics to keep traction control systems from over-nerfing under heavy load.
It won't be long before you see an AWD hybrid vette...
 

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Discussion Starter #33
You say you are surprised that someone wants to get rid of a car with a new replacement engine or transmission but I got mine back yesterday and the stupid thing is still jacked up. It shakes when switching gears and misses so bad when switching gears that it’s ridiculous. This BS ride will not last me and I will eventually lose my ass on repairs I’m sure once the warranty is done. I’ll keep it that long but hell’s bells as long as I have been driving a loaner mine will never reach 60k miles, it will be the 5 years that comes first at this point. Over this car and that noise of water in the dash is still there too. It’s not like I’m out off roading. I’m a typical driver.
 

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You say you are surprised that someone wants to get rid of a car with a new replacement engine or transmission but I got mine back yesterday and the stupid thing is still jacked up. It shakes when switching gears and misses so bad when switching gears that it’s ridiculous. This BS ride will not last me and I will eventually lose my ass on repairs I’m sure once the warranty is done. I’ll keep it that long but hell’s bells as long as I have been driving a loaner mine will never reach 60k miles, it will be the 5 years that comes first at this point. Over this car and that noise of water in the dash is still there too. It’s not like I’m out off roading. I’m a typical driver.
Your transmission doesn't shift between gears, it is a CVT. The "shift" you feel is completely computer simulated so it feels like a normal transmission with gears.

If it is not running properly after the repair work, take it back to the shop again until they get it right. If it goes long enough, they will reach the point of lemon law and you can cut your losses.
 
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+1 on what @cp-the-nerd wrote. I would call them, give them a chance to make it right and ask to talk to the service manager while there. That is part of the escalation process if this goes the wrong way. If they don't find a problem, ask to ride with a tech or the service manager and demonstrate. If you can't get the dealer to fix it right, contact Chevrolet Customer Assistance at (800) 222-1020. They may send you to another dealer and gets the process rolling in a better direction.
 

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You say you are surprised that someone wants to get rid of a car with a new replacement engine or transmission but I got mine back yesterday and the stupid thing is still jacked up. It shakes when switching gears and misses so bad when switching gears that it’s ridiculous. This BS ride will not last me and I will eventually lose my ass on repairs I’m sure once the warranty is done. I’ll keep it that long but hell’s bells as long as I have been driving a loaner mine will never reach 60k miles, it will be the 5 years that comes first at this point. Over this car and that noise of water in the dash is still there too. It’s not like I’m out off roading. I’m a typical driver.
Candy, you appear to have two choices. The first is going back to the dealer to get it fixed again, under warranty. The second (if you had numerous repairs or significant amount of days you vehicle was our of service) is to consider lemon law protection. Most lawyers take the case for free, and you will be done with this bad transmission problem. Of course, this assumes you comply with your state's lemon law.

Given your frustration and other unresolved issues, I would look into lemon law protection.

You could also consider contacting GM, though they will generally create case numbers and other bs to waste your time (so you end up not filling a lemon law action in a timely manner).

FYI, a typical lemon law resolution is that the mfg buys your car back in which you receive a credit for another vehicle. You will likely pay for the usage of the vehicle (mileage charge), though this will depend on how good your lawyer is and the commonality of the problem.

DISCLAIMER: I am not a lawyer and none of this should be considered as legal advice.

If you do choose to return to the dealer, I would contact the 800 Chevy number to create a file such that the dealer is encouraged to fix everything on your next visit (let them monitor the dealer such that your car is fixed once and correctly).
 

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You say you are surprised that someone wants to get rid of a car with a new replacement engine or transmission but I got mine back yesterday and the stupid thing is still jacked up. It shakes when switching gears and misses so bad when switching gears that it’s ridiculous. This BS ride will not last me and I will eventually lose my ass on repairs I’m sure once the warranty is done. I’ll keep it that long but hell’s bells as long as I have been driving a loaner mine will never reach 60k miles, it will be the 5 years that comes first at this point. Over this car and that noise of water in the dash is still there too. It’s not like I’m out off roading. I’m a typical driver.
When you return to the dealership with the car and they accept it for further repairs, aka fixing their mistakes, then eventually they'll call you and say 'come and get it.' You'll accept a call after a week if it still needs more time, just so you can stay in the loop, and during this entire time, they can provide you a free loaner (you pay gas).

Before you accept it and/or sign any documents, take it for a ride, preferably with the service manager along, so both of you can experience the repairs first-hand. If it's not right, then when both of you return to the shop, hand the keys to the service manager and ask him to take it for a ride before they call you again, unless, of course, they call after another week to say they'll have it even longer.

I think you'll find that everyone here is hoping the best for you. Please keep us in the loop as well, since some of us are just curious, but your experience could go toward helping another member at some point in time.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I took it back this morning. The main problem is that it doesn’t start doing this until you’ve driven it for about 15 miles, it’s the slowing down and then speeding up for example to pass someone, it will start shaking and missing. It doesn’t even act like it’s the transmission. It acts like it’s got electrical problems or something. To be honest I’ve had trouble since I bought it, the window did not work for about a month, but then suddenly it started working. I never took it in to the dealership because I didn’t have the time, and it was a back window. One day I just started working. Also another day, my display on the radio, it just started going nuts, blinking and changing Channels until I stopped the car, turned it off and then turned it back on and it never did it again. I think I just got a dud. It’s really sad though, because I actually love this car. I love the way it looks, the way it drives when it works right. I have a Ford Explorer as well and this is my gas saver work car, but I’ve been driving the Ford more often costing more gas. So this thing is turning into a nightmare.

I’ll update you on how it turns out.
 

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Please inform the dealer about your other issues, as this information is helpful in diagnosing the root problem (i.e. a bad module interrupting communications).
 
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