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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting sick and tires of my ridiculously loud squeeky brakes. The pads still have over half the life left on them, but they squeek constantly, if I brake lightly the squeek the loudest. But they still squeek when I hit the brakes hard too. THE most annoying thing about this car.

So I'm going to order some new pads to see if that gets rid of the problem. Has anyone tried Monroe or Wagner Thermo Quiet brake pads before? Rockauto has a $20-$30 rebate on them (until Oct. 31) so I was thinking about trying them out. They'd be almost half the price of the AC Delco ones...

Also, do we need ceramic or organic brake pads? I noticed there's two different types. Which type is best? Thanks.
 

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I have used the Wagner Thermal Quiet Semi-Metallic pads on a couple of vehicles. My side Mechanic business. My customers are happy with them. My one customer has me doing the rear brakes on his F150 on Sunday. I did the fronts back in Feb. He loves them.
 

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I think the common wisdom is that semi-metallic pads, compared to ceramic ones, tend to warp rotors faster due to higher heat transfer rate (more localized cooling when the pads are in contact with the hot rotor when in stop).
 

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I have akebono premium pads all around and they are great, a bit more initial grip than stock and they don't squeak, plus they are almost dustless, they are a bit on the expensive side though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hm, so organic pads aren't as good as ceramic ones then? That's probably why the ceramics are more expensive.

I may go with the Wagner's, for about $50 a set they look like a good deal.
 

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I love ceramic pads. I used ceramic all around on my old truck and it made a nice difference in braking and almost no dust, they were carquest premium pads (AKA akebono premium like LTZ malibu uses). A little more expensive, yes, but well worth it. I absolutely hate brake dust on my wheels.
 

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If you are looking for great stopping power - I have EBC greenstuff on my car - they stop great....but if Dust is something you are looking to avoid - then I would recommend staying away from these pads.

BTW - if you are wondering - it only took me like 15-20 mins to do the pads - very easy to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you are looking for great stopping power - I have EBC greenstuff on my car - they stop great....but if Dust is something you are looking to avoid - then I would recommend staying away from these pads.

BTW - if you are wondering - it only took me like 15-20 mins to do the pads - very easy to do.

Yeah, I saw your thread, I think I'll stay away just because of the dust. I'm not really looking for improved stopping power, just more quiet than the stockers. Do you need a special tool to push the caliper pistons back in? Or can you just use a C clamp?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So it looks like I'll stay with Ceramic since they sound better. Were the oem pads ceramic or organic?

Can I replace just the front pads, or do I have replace all 4 corners? It's just the front pads that are squeeking, and I've heard that the rear pads usually last twice as long anyways since they aren't used as much (only 20% braking I think?).
 

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You can stick with just front if you like -- Just a guess but i'd imagine the OEM were semi-metallic. I can check mine tonight if you'd like as i haven't junked them yet.

I had a friend turn the factory ones and he said they were in good shape even with the fron squeak, but there was .004 that had to be removed. So make sure you turn or replace the rotors.

I did the whole job (8 pads and 4 rotors) so im just saving them for the 80,000 mile mark when i need a rotor set replacement :p
 

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Where is everyone ordering there pads from? I want to replace my fronts because of the constant noise they make. Ive got about 30K on the car now, would i need to have the rotors turned as well or could i just do the pads?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Is semi-metallic the same thing as organic? I'm a newb with all this brake terminology.

You really have to get your rotors turned when your just replacing the pads? I've never done that with my past vehicles before...
 

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@malibudragon and @onecrazyfoo4u: You should really get your rotors turned, ESPECIALLY if you are changing compound. BUT it is often inconvenient.

If it helps, my front squeaked and it was only off .004in. over 17K miles. So it's likely that yours would be similar. Its a huge hassle to get them turned, also, I agree. But it's a good idea to maximize pad life and guarantee you aren't going to bed them in wrong or anything...
 

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If you are looking for great stopping power - I have EBC greenstuff on my car - they stop great....but if Dust is something you are looking to avoid - then I would recommend staying away from these pads.

BTW - if you are wondering - it only took me like 15-20 mins to do the pads - very easy to do.
Hi Guys,

I'm looking to do my brakes this weekend on my 2008 malibu (current style), but before I take the tires off I wanted to make sure I had the correct socket/drive to take the calipers off.

Does anyone know what one that is because in the past I used a hexigon drive socket that fit into the caliper like an alan-wrench.

Is it still the same or is it a standard bolt I can use my socket set on?

Thanks Al
 

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I believe the caliper bolts are 13MM and the caliper mounting bracket bolts are 15MM, but I am not 100% sure. They are for sure metric though. I use 1/2" drive sockets generally for the caliper mounting bracket and 3/8" drive sockets for the caliper bolts. 6 point sockets preferably over 12 point. Either a c-clamp or brake piston compressor to push the caliper piston back in.
 

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Thanks for the info, I have a full socket set, I just didn't want to have to head back out to find some sort of "Star-drive" socket I've used in the past on buicks.

I should be set now
 
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