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Which brand of engine oil did you choose?

18508 Views 48 Replies 23 Participants Last post by  Rodents
and what engine do you have?

I have the 2.4l and only drive about 6k miles a year, so I went with Castrol GTX @ 6 months old
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On my '09 I bought it with a service contract for 3/36, LOF and tire rotation every 3000-3500 miles, so I took it in regularly. Traded it in and now have 2000 miles on my '11. When the OLM gets down to around 10% I'm gonna change the oil and have full synthetic put in. Then I'm gonna drive a year (about 10K miles) 'til the next oil change.

There are some threads aroud the site that have discussed this as well, so use the site search feature if you want to read up on it. You can also go to for some research.
How much is the oil analysis, and who does it - a county extension or private firm?

But what SilverLTZ said also has validity. Synthetic is much slipperier and has other benefits. You get slightly better fuel mileage with it and slightly better performance. Some folks can actually tell the difference.

A manager at work and I were talking a few weeks back about full syn oil. He changed the oil in his girlfriend's car and didn't mention it was full syn. A while later (about a week) she said the engine seemed to start easier and she's getting better mileage, based on how far she usually drives on a tank. Once I switch over to full syn I'll be able to tell people on here if I notice it or not, and I'll try to be objective. I don't sell the stuff and don't want to promote it if I don't actually believe it's doing what it says, but I expect it will based on comments here and elsewhere.

Ultimately it's your decision, and I'm sure you'll make one you can live with without regret. Just want you to have as many facts and as much input as possible so your decision is based on verifiable information. Who knows, you just might choose to do one oil change just to see how it goes and make your mind up after that on whether or not to do it again.
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To reset OLM:

Method 1:
Turn key on.
Press and hold bottom two buttons on left of steering wheel until the menu appears.
Press 3rd button from top until "Reset OLM" appears.
Press 4th button until it is reset.

Method 2:
See owner's manual.
That was a truly funny reply! :D
Amsoil isn't approved in the 5th generation camaros or corvettes, and I wouldn't use Pennzoil in my Briggs and Stratton engines. Every V8 Camaro and Vette comes with mobil1 from the factory.

I don't think censoring a thread ( or closing it ) because you don't like Mobil1 is the American Way!
I use AMSoil in my '11 V6. If you read the owner's manual where it talks about the oil and warranty you'll notice it says that an equivalent may be used and still be under warranty. AMSoil meets or exceeds that standard so it meets warranty requirements. Silver's comment about Mobil1 tells you his experience with it and uncovers any research or evidence he's found.

Your comment about closing your Mobil1 thread runs just a leeeeetle bit towards inciting. He commented on how many threads there must be about oil and then closed it. He also said in his comment he was closing it.

Sorry about that - but he beat me to it. It is our duty to help keep this forum organized. Occasionally that means merging like threads together, or in the case of yours that had no real comments yet, closing it. So, if that doesn't meet with your approval we apologize all over ourselves, but that's what we have to do.

You'll be able to help save us a little effort along those lines if you'll do a little research by using the Search function instead of starting new threads that have been discussed thoroughly. If you start more don't be surprised if every once in a while they might get merged. That won't mean that you didn't look; it'll just mean that when you looked you weren't able to find it. We don't get paid for our efforts so it's obvious that we do it because we care about this site. Please join us in showing appreciation and respect for all the other members.

One of your posts says you're retired military, and your Eagle avatar suggests that you're a red-blooded, flag-waving Patriot. What was done wasn't anti-American at all. It was simply common sense. If common sense is no longer considered a part of the American Way then that's not a problem. We'll continue using common sense on this site.

Please take a look at your comment and see just how grating it was and why it got a response like this. We have a zero-tolerance policy about calling people names. In the past it was tolerated a little, very little, but as the membership has grown it has also encompassed many more personalities. On the internet some folks (personalities) feel like they're safer because their real identity isn't known so they pop off and stir things up. We're an active site and that just ain't gonna go on no mo'.

It's more than just American to keep things decent - it's elevated to the level of being truly Godly!
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So back to the oil, giving that I have the V6 i am interested in doing it justice, so what you believe is the best time to change it, I have done almost 5 g on it, 900 being about hwy, and the oil life is at 35, what is in there now is what ever the dealer put in, bc I got it used, roughly around April. so they probably used conventional oil, bc I think they told me they did. I always thought full synthetic was best for temp ranges, as it gets cold in the winter and hot in summer here. I know my Silverado came with mobil 1, as I had a warranty card that came with it when I bought it. I just would like to do whats best for the car, and I know modern oils are more durable than the old every 3k change, which i used to do on a neon i had, bc that didnt have an oil life sensor lol.
For some truly good guidance head over to BITOG (Bob Is The Oil Guy) and do some reading.

Short version: use full synthetic. It flows better during cold starts, which is when the majority of engine wear occurs.
I use a synthetic blend 5W-30 with a service champ oil filter. I go 3-4 thousand on the interval. I'm still not stuck on the OLM yet. I've heard a lot of negative with it. And on a side note, I work at an oil change center, filters are designed to shut down and stop working around 3k miles. They get so saturated they can't do what they need to and it get's bypassed altogether. Royal Purple was actually started by a former Mobil 1 engineer, he figured he could make more money and added a purple dye to it. Back to the synthetic blend, it's a step above conventional with some synthetic additives. And to tell you the truth, all oil is the same, no matter the brand you like, they all have to meet the same standards, it's all government regulated.

They have some minimums they have to meet, but it is a proven fact some do a better job then others.
It could go both ways, right now the minimum is GF-5, yea some may have different additives, but when it comes down to it, it's the same "oil". We seem to have a lot of our guest like to use Castrol.
The government says the car mfrs have to meet certain emission and economy standards. They meet them by making certain changes that sometimes require the oil to change, so they have to give it a new designation. The government doesn't set the standard on the oil, the car mfrs tell the oil companies what they need and the oil companies give it a label.

Synthetic should properly be based on Group 4 or 5 stock because it starts out from the basic building blocks of non-crude oil. But Group 3 is highly modified and refined from crude oil and should not be marketed as synthetic because it really isn't.

The additives are what change the characteristics of any oil, whether conventional, synthetic (Groups 4 or 5), blended, or Group 3 "synthetic". If an oil seller wants to put the API star burst on their product they have to pay the owner of the symbol a lot of money to do so. AMSoil doesn't have the API symbol but their oil meets or exceeds the newest standard required by GM. GM states in their manual that to stay within warranty requirements all that is needed is to use an oil that has the necessary symbol "or equivalent" (their words).

The government has nothing to do with making the oil standards.

And different oils, even those sold as pure synthetics, perform differently, so "all oil is the same" is not accurate, since all oils contain additives, and each manufacturer has their own recipe.

On another note, where do you get your info about filters being designed to shut down after 3000 miles? I've never heard that and don't buy it, but with incontrovertible evidence I can be swayed.
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