Is there going to be a GM recall on the door lock actuators? It seems this is a huge problem on the 08 and 09 malibus. Our car is doing the same thing as everyone else has posted. Key fob doesn't lock/unlock and nor does the door switch for ALL 4 DOORS!!!
Door Lock Actuator Recall?
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ejvance03
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Well, I took our Chevy Malibu to Cox Chevrolet in Bradenton Florida to find out about getting the electronic door locks fixed. Paid $70 to have the problem "diagnosed." The bottom line was all of the door lock actuators are apparently "broken." I almost fainted when they said the cost of getting them fixed is $1583.34. We have an Extended Service Plan from Good Sam's but they wouldn't authorize the repairs without sending out an inspector.
This is too incredible for words. Clearly there is a problem here that once again General Motors doesn't want to own up to until the bean counters decide the cost of a recall is less than the cost of paying out claims for people who are hurt or killed because of this defect.
We are giving this car to our daughter, but keeping the Extended Service Plan until she can get the door locks fixed. Although I was born and raised in Detroit and have never purchased a car that wasn't made by one of the Big Three, I guess it's finally time for a change.
Shame on General Motors.
This is too incredible for words. Clearly there is a problem here that once again General Motors doesn't want to own up to until the bean counters decide the cost of a recall is less than the cost of paying out claims for people who are hurt or killed because of this defect.
We are giving this car to our daughter, but keeping the Extended Service Plan until she can get the door locks fixed. Although I was born and raised in Detroit and have never purchased a car that wasn't made by one of the Big Three, I guess it's finally time for a change.
Shame on General Motors.
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3 Posts
It only gets worse. Now I'm being told that not only is GM aware of this problem the dealerships may be bilking customers out of hundreds of dollars as well. My question is does the part to fix this problem really cost almost two hundred dollars each and is labor almost two hundred per door as well? Just want to know. If this is a scam I want to warn as many people as I can. If not I'll bite the bullet and just avoid GM cars in the future.
Search this site for the $8 fix. For around $50 in parts you can make the locks work like they should if you're willing to do it yourself. The latches are probably not actually bad, but the lock motors inside them fail. Replacing them with external units solves the problem and saves you a bunch of greenbacks.
The part costs about 100 bucks. It used to be $60 when I fixed mine 3 years ago. The labor will depend. It would be an hour or less. So if you find a good shop, I hope they would charge you $100 or so for labor.
Below are the parts. They are old. But you can go to http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/, put these part# in, they will tell you what the new part number is and its price:
22785608 - Left-Front Door Latch
22785607 - Right-Front Door Latch
22785610 - Left-Rear Door Latch
22785609 - Right-Rear Door Latch
Below are the parts. They are old. But you can go to http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/, put these part# in, they will tell you what the new part number is and its price:
22785608 - Left-Front Door Latch
22785607 - Right-Front Door Latch
22785610 - Left-Rear Door Latch
22785609 - Right-Rear Door Latch
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44 Posts
Or you could do the $8 fix...
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2 Posts
If anyone is still coming to this thread with the same problem, I wanted to share they tutorial video I made to install cheap aftermarket actuators to solve this problem. It's the famous "$8 fix" that user "Boro" first posted.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_8kDjBFidc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_8kDjBFidc
This is sad. Understandably a tough situation for GM but if you want to enjoy the benefits of being a huge company turning large profits on your cars, you need to stand behind them. I receive "special loyalty offers" from my dealer about every two weeks but when I tell them of my door lock issue the cost to repair nearly exceeds the value of the vehicle.
$360 to replace both headlamps, must remove the bumper? Pure genius! Actually not very difficult to do this one yourself. $45 lamps from Auto Zone.
All my inflation sensors have failed right after I had tires replaced. Now I can't use my display because it is constantly telling me my sensor has a problem and to check my tire pressure.
Had to replace both remotes to the tune of over $400. My remotes on my 2001 Silverado are still doing just fine and I abuse those. The Malibu remotes first failed at the battery connection(I repaired), then the plastic began to crumble and finally they just quit working. Why is this okay?
The temp down button no longer works consistently. Sometimes takes me minutes to make an adjustment.
Had to replace the entire steering column assembly, luckily this one was mostly on GM.
GM, you have now officially lost another customer. I'm a union electrician and installed the new line to build the Colorado and Canyon trucks last year. I was seriously considering one, but no more.
$360 to replace both headlamps, must remove the bumper? Pure genius! Actually not very difficult to do this one yourself. $45 lamps from Auto Zone.
All my inflation sensors have failed right after I had tires replaced. Now I can't use my display because it is constantly telling me my sensor has a problem and to check my tire pressure.
Had to replace both remotes to the tune of over $400. My remotes on my 2001 Silverado are still doing just fine and I abuse those. The Malibu remotes first failed at the battery connection(I repaired), then the plastic began to crumble and finally they just quit working. Why is this okay?
The temp down button no longer works consistently. Sometimes takes me minutes to make an adjustment.
Had to replace the entire steering column assembly, luckily this one was mostly on GM.
GM, you have now officially lost another customer. I'm a union electrician and installed the new line to build the Colorado and Canyon trucks last year. I was seriously considering one, but no more.
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34 Posts
A lil old, but my actuators are bad also. 2008 Bu LTZ with only 47,000 miles. Pretty lame. My other vehicles (all foreign) have over 150K miles a piece and don;t even squeak. WTF, thoroughly disappointed with GM right now. Sigh.... I'll check out the 8 dollar fix.
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2,813 Posts
Hello gutz,
I’m truly sorry to hear that you are experiencing a concern with the actuators on your Malibu. You have the right to expect quality from your GM vehicle, and I’d be happy to investigate this situation further on your behalf. If this is something you’re interested in, please send us a private message with your full contact info, VIN, and involved dealer if applicable.
Best,
Corey K.
Chevrolet Customer Care
Hello Gutz,
It seems the locks in Chevy's are faulty no matter how old the car, or how many miles the car has on it. I have an '08 LT2 and both front locks went bad in the first 2 years. Now both rear locks are bad, and since it's well out of warranty, I'm stuck dealing with what is clearly a chronic issue, on my own. It's really disappointing to go to the $8 fix YouTube video and see that it has over 38,000 views. If 38,000 people got sick at a national restaurant chain, they'd shut all the locations down! But if 38,000 Chevy drivers just want to lock their cars without issue, they're out of luck.
It's truly disappointing.
It's a faulty part design. GM eventually revised it, so the problem primarily affects '08-'09 vehicles. Due to the nature of the problem, it was difficult to realize the parts were faulty until half a million of them were on the road.
It's also not considered a safety hazard since power locks are technically a convenience feature, so it doesn't warrant a recall.
It's also not considered a safety hazard since power locks are technically a convenience feature, so it doesn't warrant a recall.
And that's where I might draw the line with the specific design of the Malibu itself, just because of the locks.
In every other car I've owned the lock button on the rear doors was toward the front of the door, either next to the window, next to the door handle, or somewhere else that could be reached from the open front door. But in this car as well as at least one BMW that I've ridden in, the lock buttons are at the rear of the door. Try reaching those when the power lock fails and you have to open the rear door! Imagine if you weren't just dropping the kids off but there was an accident. It could rise to the level of being life-threatening.
The placement itself, not the function, is not safe. But that is a separate issue from the locks failing except when one needs to open the locked door manually.
In every other car I've owned the lock button on the rear doors was toward the front of the door, either next to the window, next to the door handle, or somewhere else that could be reached from the open front door. But in this car as well as at least one BMW that I've ridden in, the lock buttons are at the rear of the door. Try reaching those when the power lock fails and you have to open the rear door! Imagine if you weren't just dropping the kids off but there was an accident. It could rise to the level of being life-threatening.
The placement itself, not the function, is not safe. But that is a separate issue from the locks failing except when one needs to open the locked door manually.
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9 Posts
This is astonishing, I've have owned my 08 Malibu LT2 now with 57k miles on it and I have been arguing with the dealer since 33k miles regarding my front driver and rear passenger door locks and every time I've been told they cannot find an issue with them. Now both have failed and I have to manually lift them to get the doors open. At this point I am forced to take the $8 fix, even with an email to GM Customer Service now 14 days out and no reply and the dealer has basically told me I am on my own. Completely unacceptable and a clear safety violation on all levels. I am officially done with the Malibu and Impala line.
I went to a non-dealer trusted mechanic for my '09 and it was like a little over 100 a door or something like that.. He replaced the actuators on both front doors. The rears are still working somehow.. After this fiasco, I turned off the setting that unlocks All doors.. Changed it to Driver only when I turn the key off. Pretty annoying when I have passengers, but it will save the others from wearing out hopefully until I get rid of the car. I can't believe I've had this car since 2010.. Time flies.
My next car will be something that is more fun to and comfortable to drive. The bland driving dynamics of this car and the terrible drivers seating position/ergonomics have been suffered by me long enough. So it's either something rear wheel drive and stick, or the Tesla Model 3 if it really does end up being 35-40k and if they keep the tax incentives of like 9 grand (making it effectively like a high 20's - low 30's priced car). The Mustang looks compelling as it has a useful sized trunk and a nice large pass through when you fold the seats down making it almost like a hatchback.. The Camaro is the better performer, but much less practical from what I hear spacewise.. I'd love a coupe with room for 4 adults comfortably, a useful trunk, stick, rear or all wheel drive (Hopefully rear.. we don't need the added weight and friction of awd here in the Philadelphia area.. with modern tires and the light to medium winter's here it's no big deal.. Sadly an affordable GOOD rwd is hard to find these days in a non-all-out sport package)..
My perfect car would be 30k or less, room for 4 adults comfortably, high 20s or better average MPG, decent trunk with fold down seats when needed.. stick, rear wheel drive, great handling. 2 door would be nice but 4 not a total deal breaker.. Maybe I need to look at a used BMW or something because America just doesn't make this car. They are too busy with stupid CAFE dodging bloated CUVs and their oversized tonka tires. Same or less interior space than a proper station wagon with added weight, higher CG, higher fuel consumption, rougher riding, worse handling, longer braking distances. So dumb.
The Accord coupe meets all of these expectations very well, but it sadly is front wheel drive only. I'm done with front wheel drive. I need to get some of my soul back.
My next car will be something that is more fun to and comfortable to drive. The bland driving dynamics of this car and the terrible drivers seating position/ergonomics have been suffered by me long enough. So it's either something rear wheel drive and stick, or the Tesla Model 3 if it really does end up being 35-40k and if they keep the tax incentives of like 9 grand (making it effectively like a high 20's - low 30's priced car). The Mustang looks compelling as it has a useful sized trunk and a nice large pass through when you fold the seats down making it almost like a hatchback.. The Camaro is the better performer, but much less practical from what I hear spacewise.. I'd love a coupe with room for 4 adults comfortably, a useful trunk, stick, rear or all wheel drive (Hopefully rear.. we don't need the added weight and friction of awd here in the Philadelphia area.. with modern tires and the light to medium winter's here it's no big deal.. Sadly an affordable GOOD rwd is hard to find these days in a non-all-out sport package)..
My perfect car would be 30k or less, room for 4 adults comfortably, high 20s or better average MPG, decent trunk with fold down seats when needed.. stick, rear wheel drive, great handling. 2 door would be nice but 4 not a total deal breaker.. Maybe I need to look at a used BMW or something because America just doesn't make this car. They are too busy with stupid CAFE dodging bloated CUVs and their oversized tonka tires. Same or less interior space than a proper station wagon with added weight, higher CG, higher fuel consumption, rougher riding, worse handling, longer braking distances. So dumb.
The Accord coupe meets all of these expectations very well, but it sadly is front wheel drive only. I'm done with front wheel drive. I need to get some of my soul back.
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680 Posts
What about the Dodge Charger? They are automatic, but the newer auto transmissions are incredible. The AT in my Dad's new C7 Vette is insane, to the point that even when they had some professional drivers try it, they couldn't do any better with a stick than the auto did.
There's no such thing as seating 4 adults comfortably in a 2-door. A grown man getting out of the back seat always looks like the car is birthing him. You could just go with a Camaro or Mustang. Bang for Buck, the current Mustang is hard to beat.
I simply can't do the Dodge, for reliability concerns above all. They are just garbage. I've also had a Charger as a rental, and it was the terrible 2.7 engine, so maybe not a fair way to gauge it, but that car handled like a battleship. No finesse at all. Maybe the sportier models are a different story with suspension tuning and tires, but then I keep coming back to the reliability issue. All I picture is every POS plymouth or dodge that burned blue smoke.. If you saw blue smoke even 10 years ago, you could almost bet a million that it was a Dodge or Plymouth burning oil. What awful pieces of junk. You never see old Dodges on the road for a reason.
About the Auto.. The 6 speed in my Malibu hunts for gears nonstop, it's never in the right one, it thrashes on downshift at random times. It's simply the most awful POS transmission I've ever encountered. Compound this with the underpowered 4 cyl in these 3500lb nose heavy cars of ours.. The new auto's are a different story though as you said, even the CVT in my GF's new accord is great! Super responsive. Window stickers always bias today's autos though.. I'm sure they program them to game that measurement. I remember reading somewhere that CVT's are the most overrated and Manual's Underrated when it comes to real world MPG vs Sticker.
About no such thing as seating for 4 adults comfortably in a 2 door? My girlfriends Accord does it DAMN GOOD, as did my 88 Monte Carlo. Why can't they build affordable 2 doors with a useful backseat anymore? (aside from an Accord)
The back seat of the '16 2 door Accord is better than the back of my 4 door Malibu.
That's awesome that your dad has a C7.. I had the pleasure of driving one with a 7 speed a few months ago.. Awesome.
I really wish GM would man up and do a recall on the 2008 and 2009 Malibu door latch/actuator issues. Currently I am having issues with my 2009 rear passenger and driver's side locks. My dealer quoted me $600.00 per lock. No way am I paying that when GM is fully aware of these faulty parts. I just had to get my BCM replaced at 60,000 miles due to faulty parts. This car has been an absolute money pit. Headlight bulb replacement is a nightmare. Unless you want to take the bumper off yourself, you have to pay the dealer $75.00 to replace the light. I am so disappointed with this vehicle. Recall after recall. I loved the style of this vehicle when first purchased, but now much regret. I will never purchase another GM vehicle .
I have a 2008 Malibu LTZ now with about 85000 miles on it. I eventually had to have all four of these actuators replaced over time:
1. The first under warranty at the dealer.
2. The last three I did myself with a friend (the same friend). It took me about 2.5 hours for the first one I did myself (maybe we are slow), about 1.5 hours for the last two once I mostly knew what I was doing at that point though the front vs. back doors are a little different. Others have posted in this thread or elsewhere on the forum instructions on how to do it themselves. It does require patience and a little skill to do.
Earlier in this thread are part numbers for each actuator. (Yes, each actuator is custom made for each door.) There have also been 2-3 updates to the actuator design over time resulting in different part numbers. I paid about $100-$110 online per actuator from what I remember, carefully getting them off ebay or online car part websites.
As others have said, I would recommend doing them yourself if you are up to the task, or try to buy the part online and take to a trusted garage to do it but try to get a labor quote first.
1. The first under warranty at the dealer.
2. The last three I did myself with a friend (the same friend). It took me about 2.5 hours for the first one I did myself (maybe we are slow), about 1.5 hours for the last two once I mostly knew what I was doing at that point though the front vs. back doors are a little different. Others have posted in this thread or elsewhere on the forum instructions on how to do it themselves. It does require patience and a little skill to do.
Earlier in this thread are part numbers for each actuator. (Yes, each actuator is custom made for each door.) There have also been 2-3 updates to the actuator design over time resulting in different part numbers. I paid about $100-$110 online per actuator from what I remember, carefully getting them off ebay or online car part websites.
As others have said, I would recommend doing them yourself if you are up to the task, or try to buy the part online and take to a trusted garage to do it but try to get a labor quote first.
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174 Posts
If due to circumstances($$$)you elect not to repair/replace failed door actuators. Can you simply disconnect/cut the power to the failed actuator and then manually lock and unlock the door by pulling pushing the door lock tab as needed?.
Aside from the obvious what would be any negative consequences of cutting power at failed actuator.
TIA
Aside from the obvious what would be any negative consequences of cutting power at failed actuator.
TIA
Easier to pull the fuse and/or relay so you don't have to cut wires.
The only consequence is when unlocking the rear doors. The buttons are at the back of the door, not the front, so reaching it from the front is nearly impossible. Which means you'll either have to crawl inside the front to reach back there, or roll down a window, or teach the rear-seat occupants (children???) to unlock them for you.
The only consequence is when unlocking the rear doors. The buttons are at the back of the door, not the front, so reaching it from the front is nearly impossible. Which means you'll either have to crawl inside the front to reach back there, or roll down a window, or teach the rear-seat occupants (children???) to unlock them for you.
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