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Discussion starter · #101 ·
Hello again!

Just posting an update. After three years of service, my aftermarket actuator finally gave out. Part of the plastic housing cracked during use and rendered it unable to move downward (to lock). I won't complain, over three years of service for $8 is pretty outstanding, in my opinion.

So, I found my exact actuator on eBay again, only the price has gone down! $4.99 and free shipping this time. Should bolt right up and take half the time. So now it's a $5 fix.
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I have made it all the way to installing the wires to the new door lock actuator and had no success. I switched them and tried all wires except the black one (2008 saturn aura). Eventually i just reconnected all wires like they were previously and now none of my door locks work and am forced to have to open the door manually. My door ajar seems to still be functional but not for the door actuators. What could be going on because i literally have all the connections as they were?

Thanks
 
If you have put the stock wires back and nothing works, you may have blown a fuse.
 
Has anyone ever have any issues with the "adjustment" of the Universal Door Lock Actuators to the factory lock rods? I'm still having issues with the one I installed and the latch occasionally won't unlatch, just like before I installed the UDLA.
Any thoughts would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks!
 
Just installed 4 aftermarket door lock actuators in my 08 Malibooyah. Took about 45-60 min a door, and they work great. Thanks BORO for your help and instruction in all these posts. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND using a loc-tite or thread locker on all fasteners (screws) to keep things happy. The two-wire actuators (Green and Blue wires) from Amazon (4 to a pack) were only $18.63 with about $6 bucks shipping....and included everything needed for a quick install. Shame on GM for not issuing a recall, but a $25 fix is way better than a trip to the dealer. GM wants $1000-$1600 to replace OEM actuators......and then won't guarantee them. It is a safety thing too. Do you really know ALL your doors are locked if the OEM's are not working? Now they do.
 
Discussion starter · #109 · (Edited)
You are more than welcome Malibooyah, and same goes for everyone else who found help in this thread.

It's with regret that I have to give my final update on this matter. As of September 2015, I no longer own my Malibu. It's also worth noting that in August, my aftermarket actuator pictured here in this thread failed, the casing cracked and ultimately had to be replaced with another $5 eBay actuator...which also functioned flawlessy in the exact footprint left by the old one. Three years of reliable service for $8 isn't bad in my opinion, and if the car were in my possesion I'd buy the cheap eBay actuators again in a heartbeat.
 
Reviving this thread due to my passenger lock starting to fail.

My front passenger lock only works about 15% of the time. I will be ordering this and giving it a whirl. For > $6, why not.

Will report back.

Thanks boro even though you abandoned your bu family! :)
 
Just did my pass front door and ALL WORKS GREAT!!! I didn`t have to do any modifications to the front door panel to make it fit. Now i`m onto the pass rear door as that one works when it wants to. My drivers doors work fine. So i`m putting my 2 other actuators away in case they decide to call it quits.

thanks
pat
 
Well I finished my 2 doors on the pass side. Then went to lock and check them and seen my drivers rear door not working properly. So took the drivers rear door apart, got that one all set and now 3 of the 4 doors all got new actuators and its so nice and it was only like 13.00 for 4. Going to do the drivers door this week and make it complete set and be worry free!!! Love the write up PERFECT!! BORO, thank you for the thread start up on this issue.

thanks
pat
 
This s going to sound like a silly question, but did everyone else have to extend the new actuator's wiring as described in the OP?

Where would I even get some? lol
What gauge is appropriate for this?

thanks guys. This weekend I'm trying this out..
 
I didn't have to extend mine at all. There is enough slack in the existing wiring if you remove it from the loom or clip inside the door. You may have to tie-wrap or tape the wiring to keep it out of the way of the window operation when done. Remember to put threadlocker (locktite) on the set screws for the lock-rods too. You don't want them to loosen up and have to go back in to the door just to tighten a screw.
 
Does anyone know how to replace the driver side? the wires are not the same colors, when I tried replacing it with the new actuators it would only lock (unlock would not work) I did try reversing the wires and see if that changed anything but it still did not work.
 
With so many folks needing to refer to this thread I thought it would be a good idea to make it a sticky. :)
 
I know this is a old thread but is there any way to get the step by step pictures back up?

thank you!
The OP's most recent post is 2 years old so I doubt he'll see your question in a reasonable amount of time.

Check my sig for a link to the LEDs in the mirrors. It shows how to remove the door panels as well. I'll see what I can do to replace the images in that thread, hopefully soon.
 
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